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XJ LA Lift setup: Wanna get it right the first time *

D

DrivnXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
KCMO
Long time lurker, finally going thru with a lift. *I dont have tons of money to sink into this, and I do drive it everyday. Just looking for a reliable/capable setup that I can occasionally wheel or abuse...will see lots of snow fun every year.

It is a 00 so I do have the LP D30, 8.25 and NP231 TC
Well aware of the SYE, I will be running the RR SYE and rebuilt XJ front shaft.
I have decided on a long arm setup: 4.5" lift on 31x10.5/15 4" BS
Originally I was interested in the "budget" long arm setup from RC...After reading all the problems with the flex joints (Need $200 worth off curries) I decided to piece together my own setup..and hope for something a little better for around the same money.

Basically, I need help to fill in the blanks for a moderate setup:

LA: Im leaning towards - Serious LongArms http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=77863
Rear Leaf springs: I figure RC offers decent 4.5" springs for the cost? Thinking I can save a few bucks here with them.
Coil Springs: I think I can get by with some on the cheaper end? Suggestions?
Shocks: Id love to spend $500 on these, but cant. Is there something middle of the road...but not junk? Or suck it up and buy Bilstien?
Swaybar Quick Discos: Want something reliable and easy to use, willing to splurge here if need be.
Track Bar: Want something strong, and affordable..but willing to splurge if needed (no RC or skyjacker stuff)
Pitman Drop: All created equal? Suggestions?
Steering stabilizer: RC?
Brake lines: I know there are stainless, and then just factory swaps. Probably will go with what is cheapest here.
Other than that obviously U-bolts and maybe BPE's.

Your input is greatly appreciated!
Am I on the right track of saving a couple bucks on some parts, but spending where I need it? (I realize I can buy Clayton etc etc but its just not in the cards for me)
Am I missing anything? (it is late lol)
 
DrivnXJ said:
LA: Im leaning towards - Serious LongArms http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=77863
Perfect!
Rear Leaf springs: I figure RC offers decent 4.5" springs for the cost? Thinking I can save a few bucks here with them.
Should work, But I am a fan of buy it once and be done, so I would buy BOR leafs.
Coil Springs: I think I can get by with some on the cheaper end? Suggestions?
I would try to find some Rubicon Express ones!
Shocks: Id love to spend $500 on these, but cant. Is there something middle of the road...but not junk? Or suck it up and buy Bilstien?
I have ran both $100 shocks and $20 shocks, and I would honestly say go cheap Procomp ones at first until you have money and your build plans change before getting fancy shocks.
Swaybar Quick Discos: Want something reliable and easy to use, willing to splurge here if need be.
JKS FTW.
Track Bar: Want something strong, and affordable..but willing to splurge if needed (no RC or skyjacker stuff)
It seems the Iron Rock Offroad is a good cheap kit.
Pitman Drop: All created equal? Suggestions?
I dont run a drop Pitman arm!
Steering stabilizer: RC?
Cheap Procomp
Brake lines: I know there are stainless, and then just factory swaps. Probably will go with what is cheapest here.
Find some cheap SS lines!
Other than that obviously U-bolts and maybe BPE's.
Bumpstops would be something else to think about...
Click to expand...

My ideas are in blue... Take this info knowing it is from a 16 year old who has been learning this the hard way for a couple years.
 
DrivnXJ said:
Long time lurker, finally going thru with a lift. *I dont have tons of money to sink into this, and I do drive it everyday. Just looking for a reliable/capable setup that I can occasionally wheel or abuse...will see lots of snow fun every year.

It is a 00 so I do have the LP D30, 8.25 and NP231 TC
Well aware of the SYE, I will be running the RR SYE and rebuilt XJ front shaft.
I have decided on a long arm setup: 4.5" lift on 31x10.5/15 4" BS
Originally I was interested in the "budget" long arm setup from RC...After reading all the problems with the flex joints (Need $200 worth off curries) I decided to piece together my own setup..and hope for something a little better for around the same money.

Basically, I need help to fill in the blanks for a moderate setup:

LA: Im leaning towards - Serious LongArms http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=77863
Rear Leaf springs: I figure RC offers decent 4.5" springs for the cost? Thinking I can save a few bucks here with them.
Coil Springs: I think I can get by with some on the cheaper end? Suggestions?
Shocks: Id love to spend $500 on these, but cant. Is there something middle of the road...but not junk? Or suck it up and buy Bilstien?
Swaybar Quick Discos: Want something reliable and easy to use, willing to splurge here if need be.
Track Bar: Want something strong, and affordable..but willing to splurge if needed (no RC or skyjacker stuff)
Pitman Drop: All created equal? Suggestions?
Steering stabilizer: RC?
Brake lines: I know there are stainless, and then just factory swaps. Probably will go with what is cheapest here.
Other than that obviously U-bolts and maybe BPE's.

Your input is greatly appreciated!
Am I on the right track of saving a couple bucks on some parts, but spending where I need it? (I realize I can buy Clayton etc etc but its just not in the cards for me)
Am I missing anything? (it is late lol)
Click to expand...

Here's my input:

Skip on the pitman arm and get IRO t-bar and bracket. It doesn't require one because their mount only drops it 3/4".

RC coils and springs are pretty decent. I would try for a leaf/shackle setup, like 3" springs and 1.5" shackle. Usually the lower end and mid brands of leaf springs at 4.5" or higher net a horrible shackle angle because of the deep arch in them. The less arch the spring has (and angle of the shackle), the better it will ride.

For shocks, I'd say go with the best the first time and be done with it. The shocks play a huge role in ride quality and I've seen it thousands of time where people go with cheapies then end up getting Blisteins or OME's a year or so later. Waste some money. I even did that LOL. RC has some new 2.0's coming out and should be priced decent if you can't afford the top end shocks. You might want to consider raising the rear mounts if clearance is a concern. When you raise them to axle tube level, you will need shorter shocks so if this is a plan or future plan, might want to do it before choosing shocks. Raising the mounts is relatively cheap and the stock brackets can be cut off, shaped, and used again to save some coin. You just need a welder or someone who can.

Discos: Too many out there. RC has some nice ones that are easy to use. I have em and they been alright. They pop on and off in less than a minute.

Stabilizer: Don't even bother researching on this. They are all valved 50/50 and all do the same thing. Some are pretty, some are ugly, and some are just plain janes. Pick a cheap one and toss it on. I have a 4.5 year old skyjacker stabilizer that I had to paint twice but it hasn't faded a bit yet and still works like new. It was $35.

There are a few OEM brake line options, such as chevy truck lines, that are way longer than stock and easily had at the parts store. Look into it and I'm sure you'll find a bunch of threads talkin about em.


I would also put some money towards Currie's steering if you can. It'll make a HUGE difference and worth every single penny. When you go long arms, you want to do something with the OEM steering because long arms net lots of travel and this stresses the stock steering tie rods. Currie's setup bolts right in and has angled tie rods for better angles at droop. I been jeeping for 9 years now and just recently got the currie setup. Once it was on I was hating myself for not going currie LONG AGO.

One last thing, don't neglect a crucial part of your suspension: bumpstops. Set em right to keep your springs/shocks/fenders/tires all happy and functioning correctly for a long time.
 
Last edited:
muddeprived said:
Here's my input:

Skip on the pitman arm and get IRO t-bar and bracket. It doesn't require one because their mount only drops it 3/4".
Awesome thanks!

RC coils and springs are pretty decent. I would try for a leaf/shackle setup, like 3" springs and 1.5" shackle. Usually the lower end and mid brands of leaf springs at 4.5" or higher net a horrible shackle angle because of the deep arch in them. The less arch the spring has (and angle of the shackle), the better it will ride.
I havent heard this, will look into it...
For shocks, I'd say go with the best the first time and be done with it. The shocks play a huge role in ride quality and I've seen it thousands of time where people go with cheapies then end up getting Blisteins or OME's a year or so later. Waste some money. I even did that LOL. RC has some new 2.0's coming out and should be priced decent if you can't afford the top end shocks. You might want to consider raising the rear mounts if clearance is a concern. When you raise them to axle tube level, you will need shorter shocks so if this is a plan or future plan, might want to do it before choosing shocks. Raising the mounts is relatively cheap and the stock brackets can be cut off, shaped, and used again to save some coin. You just need a welder or someone who can.
Are you talking the 2.2 shocks on the site?

Discos: Too many out there. RC has some nice ones that are easy to use. I have em and they been alright. They pop on and off in less than a minute.
Going with RC gen 2

Stabilizer: Don't even bother researching on this. They are all valved 50/50 and all do the same thing. Some are pretty, some are ugly, and some are just plain janes. Pick a cheap one and toss it on. I have a 4.5 year old skyjacker stabilizer that I had to paint twice but it hasn't faded a bit yet and still works like new. It was $35.

There are a few OEM brake line options, such as chevy truck lines, that are way longer than stock and easily had at the parts store. Look into it and I'm sure you'll find a bunch of threads talkin about em.


I would also put some money towards Currie's steering if you can. It'll make a HUGE difference and worth every single penny. When you go long arms, you want to do something with the OEM steering because long arms net lots of travel and this stresses the stock steering tie rods. Currie's setup bolts right in and has angled tie rods for better angles at droop. I been jeeping for 9 years now and just recently got the currie setup. Once it was on I was hating myself for not going currie LONG AGO.
What are you suggesting? Have a link to it?
IRO OTK bars?
One last thing, don't neglect a crucial part of your suspension: bumpstops. Set em right to keep your springs/shocks/fenders/tires all happy and functioning correctly for a long time.
I was thinking I wouldnt need them, as Ill be trimming fenders and raising the factory flares?
Click to expand...
My replies in blue...THANKS!

 
you'll need the bumpstops you can do the hockey puck mod up front to save some money and rear bumps are cheap.

on the trackbar i got mine used on here so check for good deals mines the extreme duty rubicon express (if you have the time/patience). but i suggest the rockkrawler one..

I just got the 4.5 RC leafs and it rides better than 3 inch leafs and shackly i just took off..... but look into the shackle relocation bracket....

i have the chevy lines up fron and the dakota line in the rear, they work great....
 
I love my setup right now. Used Deaver coils that I got for $120, Bilstein 7100s (I highly recommend at least a Bilstein 5100 or Fox/King counterpart. They're rebuildable so buy em now, and then when they start to fade, rebuild them. You can revalve as well to change handling.), RE 3.5 leafs (the only major part I want to change), Rock Krawler 3 link. With trimming I have room for loads of travel on my 33s. Better bump stopping and I could fit 37s, easily. It rides awesome with no sway bars (I still want to add some back on but my discos got boogered so off they came, and the ride has been so stable, I haven't bothered), handles good with very little roll, flexes awesome, and soaks up whoops very nicely.
 
DrivnXJ said:
Thanks for your help! Looking into shackle relocation brackets.

Is this the steering setup you speak of?
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/product.aspx?id=1219
If im doing this, is the steering box brace a must have?

Looking for decent shocks...what about [FONT=Arial, Helvetica][SIZE=-1]Doetsch Tech 8000?[/SIZE][/FONT]
Click to expand...

Yeah that's the currie system. The price went up though. I was lucky enough to get it at $400 right before the spike.

It's always good to brace that box because we have unibody rails that aren't very strong. I have C-rok's inner brace and the outside rail is covered by detour's backbone.

The steering stuff is not really a "MUST HAVE" but it's a wise investment and makes a huge difference in handling of the rig. It also takes some stress of your shoulders since you know you won't be having any problems with your steering for years.

About the shocks, I was talking about the newer nitro shocks they are coming out with. I think they are called N2.0. The 2.2's are pretty decent. Integrated bumpstops, inverted mounting.......I felt like they were too soft for a taller rig. That's just my opinion though.
 
muddeprived said:
Yeah that's the currie system. The price went up though. I was lucky enough to get it at $400 right before the spike.

It's always good to brace that box because we have unibody rails that aren't very strong. I have C-rok's inner brace and the outside rail is covered by detour's backbone.

The steering stuff is not really a "MUST HAVE" but it's a wise investment and makes a huge difference in handling of the rig. It also takes some stress of your shoulders since you know you won't be having any problems with your steering for years.

About the shocks, I was talking about the newer nitro shocks they are coming out with. I think they are called N2.0. The 2.2's are pretty decent. Integrated bumpstops, inverted mounting.......I felt like they were too soft for a taller rig. That's just my opinion though.
Click to expand...

Thanks alot for your input my friend. You are actually a big reason im not going with the RC long arms....
What do you think about the "Serious Longarms"?
 
I got the RC TJ rear SS brake line for under 30$, I believe.
For leafs, I would go for the OME 2" HD leaf packs/longer shackle. Most net around 3.25-3.5" with the leafs alone. Run about 110$/ea
HDOffroad Gen 2 shackle relocation boxes.
Coils.. OME 934 (I think)
Bilstein 5160 in front, 5125 in the rear
double sheer track bar /new bracket.
At the very least an HD tie rod. I have the ironman4x4fab tie rod with moog TRE's FrankZ's Crossover steering is under 300$
 
DrivnXJ said:
Thanks alot for your input my friend. You are actually a big reason im not going with the RC long arms....
What do you think about the "Serious Longarms"?
Click to expand...

FrankZ has a very good reputation and builds his stuff strong. I've seen a few people comment on his long arms and they are all positive. He was actually my first choice back when I was in your shoes. I just happened to switch to RC cuz they had a complete kit for a cheap price. I got what I paid for....:(
 
in the same exact boat as you...to save some extra coin i'm going to go with serious offroads 1 ton DOM inverted y setup should be just as strong as curries and at 280 save u a bit comparing to currie as well
 
x2 man....i've priced this out in 6 different ways...and lowered my final price with still having really good parts...i'm also running the 5100s 376 bucks shipped for all 4..make when you order the LA from Frank you get the limit straps as well.

I'm not extending my bumpstops i don't see the point if your lifting it and limiting the travel by extending the bumpstops

You don't need a drop pitman arm for Frankz system either...save some $$ their and if you ever decide to go for OTK setup all u need it a new tie rod link on the passenger side knucle and a reamer and ur good to go...not to sure about this with Curries setup...from what it looks like on my brothers i don't think u can do it..

if u need a set of front break lines i have a pair of Stainless steel RE ones never installed with mounting hardware for $45
 
Last edited:
Outlander560 said:
x2 man....i've priced this out in 6 different ways...and lowered my final price with still having really good parts...i'm also running the 5100s 376 bucks shipped for all 4..make when you order the LA from Frank you get the limit straps as well.

I'm not extending my bumpstops i don't see the point if your lifting it and limiting the travel by extending the bumpstops

You don't need a drop pitman arm for Frankz system either...save some $$ their and if you ever decide to go for OTK setup all u need it a new tie rod link on the passenger side knucle and a reamer and ur good to go...not to sure about this with Curries setup...from what it looks like on my brothers i don't think u can do it..

if u need a set of front break lines i have a pair of Stainless steel RE ones never installed with mounting hardware for $45
Click to expand...

The point of bumpstopping is to keep the tires from rubbing and getting damaged and also to keep your rear leaf springs from inverting, which will weaken them and make em sag. Sometimes people go for long shocks for extended droop but they end up fully collapsing before touching the bumpstops, which will snap bar pins or damage the shocks. Sometimes you get lucky and the stock bumpstops end up being perfect for the setup.
 
Last edited:
Measuring. Flex until something gets bound up/shocks bottom/etc and measure how long the bump stop needs to be to stop that from happening.
 
Outlander560 said:
ohhh makes sense...how do u know how long of a bumpstop to run then? prob a formula i'm guessing
Click to expand...

No real formula. It's just a matter of flexing out the rig and looking at the suspension components to see what needs what. I go out to this area at my park where they dump huge boulders of rocks for decorative purposes and I have my lady drive up on them while I watch the springs and shocks. When the shocks get near full collaspsed length, I tell her to stop and measure the distance between the bumpstop and where it touches on the bumpstop pad. I add 1" or 2" to my measurement cuz bumpstops compress some depending on what kind I use. While I'm doin this I check over the spring to make sure it's not inverted. Same thing is done up front. Once I got the length I need then I add spacers or lenthened bumpstops.

I need more bumpstop length than usual because I've retained the stock flares due to PA's wonderful fender laws so I have to keep my tires away from them. I got 5 hockey pucks stacked inside the front coils. Limited uptravel but plenty of droop. Works for me.

PIC-0164.jpg
 
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