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Battery drain after steering pump replacement

truckeejeeper

NAXJA Forum User
Hi y'all. So I had my steering pump replaced at my local shop, and when I picked it up, the guy had to jump it in the shop. Hmm..Ok, whatever. I get it home. Next time I go to drive it (3 days later) my battery is bricked. Like reading .5v. Can only get it to charge back up to 12.4v. It's a 6 year old Odyssey AGM, nvr had an issue with it, ever. Ok... So I head to oreillys and throw in a brand new Super Start AGM. Drive home and park. Get in to drive it 3 days later, dead as a rock. No click, turnover, nothing.

I can only assume that something happened during this pump install that is now draining my battery. Although I can't imagine how that would affect any electrical stuff. Of course I'm going back to the shop next week (sadly I don't have a garage and have to park on the street) but I like to be armed with information.

Any help appreciated. Thanks y'all-

1991 Sport 5speed - All Stock
 
That's a tough one since there is almost no electrical in the area let alone something that could cause a drain. The fan is about the thing in the area that could possibly cause a drain. I would suggest you put a ammeter on it and how much draw your pulling.
 
Coolant increases the conductivity of water and stays moist much like salt from humidity. Try hosing down your alternator.
Side story I once had a pinhole radiator leak that sprayed coolant on the battery. I was chasing down a power drain and got my ear close to the battery, it was really faint but the battery draining to ground through the coolant film sounded like frying bacon. IMO if can happen on the battery it can happen in other places, like the alternator or even any other path to ground. Hot water works better than cool water, just be careful what you are spraying and let it dry out some before running.
 
Could be the front harness where it goes down the front of the motor. If it is routed wrong it can cook on the exhaust. fairly common to accidentally reroute it when working in that area. Though the harness only has power with the key on?
Out of ideas. :)
 
Connect an Ammeter to the battery with everything turned off. Note how much current is flowing. The one at a time, pull a fuse and see if the current drops. If not, pull another until you identify the circuit with the draw.
 
I had a similar issue and it turned out to be corroded battery cables. The cable insulation hid how bad the wire itself had corroded to the point it couldn't carry battery load to crank the starter. Replaced the cables and problem solved.
 
thx for all ideas, really. 8mud, how should that harness be routed?? thats my #1 guess rt now. its run under the pump mounting bracket, and yes rt next to the engine. could see it getting very hot.

battery cables look solid. terminals clean. its just odd, b/c this prob just happened w pump job.
 
thx for all ideas, really. 8mud, how should that harness be routed?? thats my #1 guess rt now. its run under the pump mounting bracket, and yes rt next to the engine. could see it getting very hot.

battery cables look solid. terminals clean. its just odd, b/c this prob just happened w pump job.

Google Cruiser54, he had a write-up on routing that harness. My best advice is to route it as far away as possible from the exhaust manifold considering cable/harness length.
 
Awesome, will do. Ya mine is laying on it, and is melted, frayed and exposed. Also discovered that my dome light is sometime coming on and staying on randomly, regardless of whether I have it turned on or off (using the headlight knob.) Pulled the fuse. So that's definitely an issue. Is there a relay for that? Fuse looks fine.

Thanks for all the ideas, been super helpful.

- TJ
 
Sounds like a door switch or maybe a dome light switch. All of the interior lights are constant power and the switch switches to ground. Also take a close look at the cargo light, it has a nasty habit of screwing up mechanically.
Under the drivers side carpet, apart from the kick panel harness, are some loose wires just laying on the floor pan. The splices get corroded and the copper oxide can short the splices to ground. This can cause intermittent shorting and/or constant interior lights on with a dim light.
 
Glove box light can stay on, and drain the battery.

Make sure the drive belt is proper tension, and make darn sure it and its pulleys are not oily, spilled steering fluid may cause them to slip.

Be careful, often when a pump dies, if it sheds metal, it will then get into the steering gear. installing a magnafine brand power steering filter on the return line, this will help protect the system from debris.
 
Thx all. Since I've pulled the dome light fuse, the Jeep hasn't had any paraisitic drain. So that is def the problem there. Radio still not working wither tho. Fuse fine. Haven't had a chance to track those down, yet. Something is going on. But as least it's not killing my battery at the moment.
 
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