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XJ radiators, a review.

Silicate drop out. Ethylene or Propylene Glycol has a two year shelf life from the date of manufacture. There is a date code on the bottle. When the coolant is spent, it degrades and the corrosion inhibitors can contribute to
cooling problems by plugging cores and preventing heat transfer.

OAT and Hoat have a 5 year shelf life, I haven't seen any issues with them yet and cooling systems look pretty darn clean.


I got to learn a lot about coolant when I bought my 6.0 Powerstroke. That thing has an oil cooler in the valley that is susceptible to plugging and creating a whole slew of problems. I've been switching everything to CAT EC-1 coolant including the jeep.

Just ordered a Mishimoto, going to compare it to my 5+ year old Griffin direct fit. It appears to have about 24% more cooling area just based on tube count/size.

Griffin has 23 rows of 1.5" tube (38.1mm) while the Mishi has 26 rows of dual 22mm. Also ordered a Trinity fan controller from Nick.
 
Where are you sourcing that stuff?

Is there any difference between Cat ELC and Cat EC1?

Is this Cat coolant used in semi tractors? I have a neighbor who might be able to get me good pricing if so.

I will eventually be starting fresh with a stoker from Russ. I have been running HP Gold/Quantum Blue in The Bride's Impala SS and the Suburban. I have the dually on Fleet. Getting everything on one coolant would be convenient.
 
Picked up a case from socal fuels. Have the Chevron Delo ELC concentrate, it was 13/gallon. ELC is just Extended Life Coolant. CAT EC1 is the specification that Caterpillar calls for. That's what I converted the truck to. Peak Final Charge ELC is also an EC1 rated coolant and available at O'Reilly's and Walmart. Just make sure to flush the system really well and run some distilled water through it a few times. Also if you do Amsoil, they have the red stuff too.

And Mishimotos are backordered, go figure. :(
 
Got it.

I saw the Delo was readily available, but thought maybe the Cat branded stuff was superior. I will check with my neighbor and see if he gets a price break somewhere.

Thank you.

Good for Mishimoto if their sales are exceeding expectations. That is probably good for us too. Means we have a good chance of staying on their radar.
 
Just ordered a Mishimoto, going to compare it to my 5+ year old Griffin direct fit. It appears to have about 24% more cooling area just based on tube count/size.


Is there something wrong with your Griffin?
 
Is there something wrong with your Griffin?


Jeep gets warm on the trail, 4.7 stroker in it now. Not overheating warm, but if it's going slow it will bounce off the fan a bit and I have to turn off the AC. The griffin is the smaller of the 2 radiators they offer as I didn't want to deal with modifying the core support.
 
i'm just going to accept the heat this engine generates at this point. i have done 80% of everything one would do to fix high temps during climbing. The mishimoto performs excellently keeping the engine at a solid 205-210 while idling at any ambient temp.

climbing in a low gear just up 2 on asphalt free here will eventually get me warm enough to turn the e fan on. 218-223. then the thermostat is fully open, then the temp goes back down. that's what it seems it's made to be and wants to be, and i'm gonna live with it.
 
i'm just going to accept the heat this engine generates at this point. i have done 80% of everything one would do to fix high temps during climbing. The mishimoto performs excellently keeping the engine at a solid 205-210 while idling at any ambient temp.

climbing in a low gear just up 2 on asphalt free here will eventually get me warm enough to turn the e fan on. 218-223. then the thermostat is fully open, then the temp goes back down. that's what it seems it's made to be and wants to be, and i'm gonna live with it.

That is normal. I'm thinking of kicking on the electric fan at a lower temperature to maybe keep it from creeping up to 215-220. My problem is air flow at low speed. If I toss it in neutral and bring the rpms up above 1500 then it cools down pretty fast. I keep pondering the thought of dual 10" spals as the jeep is fine 190ish if it's moving at speeds where the fan won't help. But previous people have had trouble with electrics, however I don't think anyone has tossed a big radiator like the mishimoto on it with good electrics. My neighbor has a 60's falcon with 5.0/5 speed conversion and dual 10" spals without issue, that's how I know they move a ton of air. Anyway I ordered a trinity v2 fan controller from nick in time to control the stock fan. Pretty slick fan controller.

Mark
 
That is normal. I'm thinking of kicking on the electric fan at a lower temperature to maybe keep it from creeping up to 215-220. My problem is air flow at low speed. If I toss it in neutral and bring the rpms up above 1500 then it cools down pretty fast. I keep pondering the thought of dual 10" spals as the jeep is fine 190ish if it's moving at speeds where the fan won't help. But previous people have had trouble with electrics, however I don't think anyone has tossed a big radiator like the mishimoto on it with good electrics. My neighbor has a 60's falcon with 5.0/5 speed conversion and dual 10" spals without issue, that's how I know they move a ton of air. Anyway I ordered a trinity v2 fan controller from nick in time to control the stock fan. Pretty slick fan controller.

Mark

I would really like to make a controller for the e fan as well on my stock setup. I read over the large instructional thread here and it is really far outside my capability of electronics to take on a project like that though. I have a rav 4, a toyota prius, and drive a friends tacoma sometimes on trips. all of the yotas i've driven including land cruisers run between 180-195 normally. I have to imagine the longevity of their engines has something to do with that.
 
I would really like to make a controller for the e fan as well on my stock setup. I read over the large instructional thread here and it is really far outside my capability of electronics to take on a project like that though. I have a rav 4, a toyota prius, and drive a friends tacoma sometimes on trips. all of the yotas i've driven including land cruisers run between 180-195 normally. I have to imagine the longevity of their engines has something to do with that.

No. Considering how many 4.0's do 300K+.

If you run your 4.0 at 180, its going to stay in open look trying to warm up to 195+ where it wants to run, and will burn up your cat.

You see those cars "last longer" because they weigh half what we do and aren't abused offroad. ;)
 
Accomodations for the renix temp sensor again. I like this.

20181002_160058-me.jpg


Comes with a cap, and at 19 psi, giving you an extra 9* of cooling before boiling over.

20181002_160156-me.jpg

Two questions:

Has anyone pulled the plug for the RENIX fan switch to see how far back the transmission heat exchanger sits? My primary concern is coolant flow around the switch.

If I were to discover the need for a new radiator cap on a Sunday afternoon, what should I ask for at my local auto parts?
 
I believe the cap is a standard Denso (mini) cap. Original equipment on Honda's and the like. I had a griffin that used it as well.

I'll confirm that at some point and get a part # up here. But I'm betting you could find a 16 or 19 psi cap for almost any import and use it.

There is also a smaller standard (micro) that is VERY similar.
 
19psi is on the margin of high, might force a leak in the heater core or a hose junction somewhere

I've been running a 20 psi cap for the last 6 years with no problem.

If it leaks at 20, its going to leak at 16.
 
19psi is on the margin of high, might force a leak in the heater core or a hose junction somewhere

The RENIX pressure cap is 19lb., the highly recommended Stant replacement is around 21lb.
 
I have a rav 4, a toyota prius, and drive a friends tacoma sometimes on trips. all of the yotas i've driven including land cruisers run between 180-195 normally. I have to imagine the longevity of their engines has something to do with that.

No. Considering how many 4.0's do 300K+.

If you run your 4.0 at 180, its going to stay in open loop trying to warm up to 195+ where it wants to run, and will burn up your cat.

You see those cars "last longer" because they weigh half what we do and aren't abused offroad. ;)

It seems there is a correlation between operating temperatures and engine wear...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2079702&postcount=41

Torque1st said:
The baseline for engine wear was picked to be 180°F for the SAE tests. For every 10°F under that temp engine wear doubled. So at 160°F the engine is wearing at 4 times the rate as it would a 180°F. The paper did not go into higher temp applications but it follows that engine wear is probably halved at 190°F. This wear rate is caused by a chemical reaction that occurs at the cylinder wall that erodes the cast iron surface. The resulting particles of cast iron that are released also abrade the cylinder walls. The rings, bearings, and other engine components also wear more rapidly due to these particles carried in the oil. An oil filter only removes a certain % of the particles on each pass (called a beta ratio by filtration Engineers). So the more particles produced the more circulate in the oil. Each particle abrades all of the surfaces it comes in contact with and produces more particles. This wear mechanism does not have anything to do with the oil film. The fuel consumption per brake HP also increased at temperatures under 180°F but I can not remember those figures. You can see the effects of engine coolant induced wear rates on many inline-6 engines where the #1 cylinder has a much higher wear rate than the rest of the cylinders. Check a few of those engines in the junkyard and feel the ridge on #1 and compare it to #4,5, or 6... Increased engine temps are just one of the reason we see higher engine life from newer engines. Even higher engine temps get into other problems with material breakdown and degradation.
 
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