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Need info on 350 Chevy swap into XJ

O

oldmopars

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Roy Washington
I am going to be installing a 350 into my 85 XJ. I have a THM350 auto trans and a 700R4 available, both 2wd. I need to know what T-case to use. Will a 231 from a S-10 work? Does it drop out to the correct side? I would like to stay away from the 203/205 or any other heavy cast iron T-case.
Also, anyone have links to 350 swaps, pictures, etc?
Any info or pictures of a swap like this would be vrey helpful, thanks.

Scott
 
rstarch345 said:
Your joking right? You do know an XJ has a unibody?

I don't think you're going to install a 350 into an XJ. You'll need to engineer it.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

are YOU joking? don't sound so ignorant, search up theres a few that have done it. what do you think a zj is? its a unibody too and some of them came with 5.9 v-8's!


to answer some of the real questions i'm pretty sure that the s-10 t-case drops to the driver side so it will be on the correct side, most newer aluminiun t-cases drop driver and all the ifs center chunks are on the driver side. i would use the th350 i think its smaller and will fit better, i am guessing tho since you want to do this you do know what your getting into right, it can be done but there will be a lot of fab involved
 
Last edited:
shortxjdoug said:
are YOU joking? don't sound so ignorant, search up theres a few that have done it. what do you think a zj is? its a unibody too and some of them came with 5.9 v-8's!
Click to expand...
Ignorance has nothing to do with it. As I said, he'll have to engineer it and I'm more than aware that a FEW have done it. That's the key word, few. Sorry that you think it's an easy job. I bought a parts XJ from such an effort. A ZJ is also wider.
 
rstarch345 said:
Ignorance has nothing to do with it. As I said, he'll have to engineer it and I'm more than aware that a FEW have done it. That's the key word, few. Sorry that you think it's an easy job. I bought a parts XJ from such an effort. A ZJ is also wider.
Click to expand...

Check out this site.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/xj_swap.htm

They've pretty much covered the XJ small block swap. If I had an '85 with the 2.8 I'd certainly be looking at a small block conversion myself.
 
As far as swaps go, doing the trans/t-case along with the motor is definitely the way to go. Adapters are expensive!!! If you or someone you know is capable of some basic fabrication and you're willing to take the time, then really it's just a matter of effort and won't cost you as much. Motor mounts, trans crossmember and mount can all be easily made. Lots of little stuff but nothing too terribly expensive.
 
IIRC if you choose the 231 you have to use the 700R4 if you want to avoid an adapter. With the 700R4 you could also use a 241. Might need to massage the floor a touch though.
 
."Your joking right? You do know an XJ has a unibody?" and "I don't think you're going to install a 350 into an XJ. You'll need to engineer it."

Good luck!

..get real dude,.. again ,..stop useing these forums to spread dis-information + confusion-I have perform the Chevy 350 HP swap into a 1986 XJ and so has many others here at the NAXJA modification forum-Again read do your homework,.. and search the enormous NAXJA archives
 
I know alot about this subject, I used to have an SAS S-10 blazer I was going to do a 350 swap into. Yes the 231 in the blazer/ s-10 has the wider chain and drivers drop. It even uses the same SYE that the jeep case uses, but with a different speedo output. What your going to want to do to not need any adapters (read: CHEAP) is get the Tranny and Transfer case from the s-10 with a 4.3 between 89-94. That will bolt up to any 350 and the tranny isnt computer controlled. The tranny case has only 5 stud holes that mate to the transfer case, where the 1/2 ton units in the fullsize trucks have the 6. The problem is the 700r4 that is going to be in the s-10's arent as built as the half-ton units. You can take the output end of a 4x4 s-10 tranny and swap it onto any 700r4 (even the one you allready have) so that the s-10 np231 will bolt up to it and then you will have the strength you need. As for the dumb*ss who said you shouldnt put a v8 into an XJ, anything is possible with a little ingunuity. By the way, do you realize that almost every built rear wheel drive car is a unibody? I personally love seeing work like this done. I can really appreciate custom 1 off jobs like this will be. Dont destroy creativity! If you have any Q's for me, just PM me.
-Jerry
 
Thank you everyone for the positive input. I know it can be done, I have seen it done, but it has been a while and I needed some updated info. Both of those sites are great, I love pictures. It helps me get a visual on the final outcome.
I have a lot of time doing fabrications, I have an 1100sqft shop, welding equiptment, air tools, etc. I also have a degree from UTI in Auto/Diesel Technology. I know what I am getting into, that is why I am starting with research, pictures, plans, etc.
The last Jeep I built was a 87 MJ that I made into a 4.0L, AW4,242, 4x4 from a bare shell. I also swapped every inch of wiring, dash, power windows, locks, tilt wheel and cruise control. I wanted a short WB and a 4.0L and could not find one so I built it myself.
The one detail I lest out of me newest project is that the 350 I want to use is a 5.7L Diesel. So if I want to use it with the 700R4 I will need an adapter from Summit/Jegs, but they are only $70.
Please do not tell me how bad the 5.7L Diesel is, I know all I need to know about these engines and how to make them work. I also have 4 of them.
Thanks

Scott
 
I'll bite, what does it take to make those Olds diesels worth a damn?

:D
 
Mostly you need to install ARP head studs and quality gaskets. A garage full of spare parts and an understanding of the engine helps too. Don't overload them, and keep the cool. A daily driven XJ with a big Aluminum Radiator should be just fine.
Most of the cars they came in were 1000lbs heavier or more. With stock gears and a set of 31in tires should put the gearing with the THM350 just about right for my use, not a lot of highway use.
I hope to see mileage in the high 20's or even 30MPG. The car I got the engine out of was an Olds 98 (Largest GM platform) and it saw 30MPG on the Highway.
That is also one reason to go with the lighter T-case and not the 203/205.

Just so you know, the other project I have is a 90 Isuzu Trooper 4x4 that is getting a 4.3L V6 DIESEL from an Olds Cutlass FWD. I have the engine bolted to the trans and I am making the motor mounts now.
I never gave up on the early GM Diesels. ;)
 
I never gave up on the early GM Diesels.
Well then at least you will always be able to find parts. LOL.
Please show some updates as you go along for those of us that are somewhat past the do it yourself stage or the newbs so they can dream..
Thanks and good luck.
 
oldmopars said:
Mostly you need to install ARP head studs and quality gaskets. A garage full of spare parts and an understanding of the engine helps too. Don't overload them, and keep the cool. A daily driven XJ with a big Aluminum Radiator should be just fine.
Click to expand...

These engines tolerate any form of forced induction once they have been gone through? Maybe a half bar of boost or so?

I have heard that the blocks are popular with the bracket racer crowd because they are a touch stronger than normal blocks but beyond that I don't know much about them.
 
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