AXLES FOR 36 IROKS

[Lincoln]

Originally Posted by oakesters

Whats your set up? Tires?

33's until January of last year, then 35's until November, and 37's from November until now. 5.38's since the 35's went and they are ok with the 37's.

4340's in the front D44 with longfields with a spare set of 4340's and Jantz joints. I've only got one decently hard week on the setup. Like everyone said it's a grey zone and I'm just waiting for stuff to fatigue in front and break. I should be starting a replacement front axle soon, but I won't have it finished until next spring.

The rear I haven't worried about. I was told the 1310's u-joints are weaker than the pinion so they should break first.

[Roxtar]

Originally Posted by az4wheeler2002

are you kidding me??
why waste your money on a front D44??
you've already got the D30, put chromos and 760x ujoint's but make sure you get full circle c-clips(snap ring) just like the alloy usa, I believe the part# is 12148, even gusset the axle alittle if you want. 36" tires aren't that big!!!
so what the D44 front axle has a bigger ring gear size, I wheel with alot of people that rock their junk harder than they should, on 35's/38's, a few Iroks and some creepy crawlers, for the rear 33spl all day long, I believe it limits your locker availability to either detroit/arb/ox, but worth it
and 12gauge is correct...................if you go 60's you'll do it right the first time, but don't waste your money on a front D44

Yea, built up D30s are awesome for 35"-36" tires.


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I love your thinking here.
Go ahead and spend money on building up your 30 but it's a waste to build up a 44.

[cyrus]

I am running the hp44/9" (Chrom Mosers 30/31 spline) locked both ends on 36 Iroks, been beating on it as hard as I can in Michigan (drummond Island, badlands, etc.) and the close surronding area. No damage yet, to the axles at least.

No where near the abuse you could get out west around here, but none the less Drummond Island has claimed its share of R&P's and shafts as well.

personnally, 60's would be cool, but if I do it over I will go with 9"/60 hybrids. Strong light wight housings, good clearance, almost endless gear choices, and nearly the ultimate in knuckle and hub durability. Why not?

[Roxtar]

Originally Posted by CRASH

Brett is absolutely right

Wow, all the respect you've earned down the shitter with just four words.
Back to noob status.

[Danno]

I've been running the 36" IROKs for several years now. We do both Tellico and Moab where they get a lot of hard use. I built the front D44 with a HP ford axle with Chevy knuckles and alloy ujoints and axles. I really think that this is the MINIMUM for that size of tire unless all you are doing is driving to the grocery store.
The back is a Ford 9" HP with Currie HP drop-out, alloy axles on a NASCAR style floater housing.
Big tires on D30s are asking for trouble. For one thing the axle tube is small and you get a lot of flex when under high torque and high load situations. Jack it up in the center and watch how much the tubes deform. Scary!

Also, I don't think that the IROK tire is the best one for Moab type of terrain. I've used several different tread types and obsrved a number of others. I think that the best kind isthe Goodyear/Goodrich Mud Terrain style of tread. The IROK doesn't put nearly as much rubber on the ground (due to the design) as does the MTs. Moab demands more of a contact patch on the rock. Having said that, the IROKs are great in a place like Tellico that is all mud and rock. This is not to say that the IROKs won't do well in Moab (I'm still using them), just that there is a slightly better tire for that terrain (splitting hairs here).

[Roxtar]

Originally Posted by Danno

Also, I don't think that the IROK tire is the best one for Moab type of terrain. I've used several different tread types and obsrved a number of others. I think that the best kind isthe Goodyear/Goodrich Mud Terrain style of tread. The IROK doesn't put nearly as much rubber on the ground (due to the design) as does the MTs. Moab demands more of a contact patch on the rock. Having said that, the IROKs are great in a place like Tellico that is all mud and rock. This is not to say that the IROKs won't do well in Moab (I'm still using them), just that there is a slightly better tire for that terrain (splitting hairs here).

Com'on Danno, you know there's only one tire that rules Moab:

Sing it, Sean,

"Oh no, he says he's got to go
Go, go MUDZILLA"

[cLAYH]

Originally Posted by cal

So you have the exact same weak link as a d30, in the 297/760?

My D30 actually had the smaller u-joints which were never a problem for me. I've never broken a axleshaft u-joint on my XJ as I'm fairly mild with the skinny pedal.

The weak points on the D30 for me were the unit bearings, small brakes and no support for 5.38s gears. The unit bearings could have been fixed with a hub kit and I have seen upgrades for the brakes on a D30 but for the cost of those two upgrades I built my D44. And there is no way that I know of to get 5.38s into a D30. As I said I had most of the parts already and did the fabbing myself. My dad and sister are both building Jeeps as well and will probablt get their D30s "polished" as I don't think they want to drop the big money all once fro a D44.

If I ever do break an axleshaft I will then upgrade to alloy shafts. But so far so good.

[cLAYH]

Originally Posted by Big Red

That's some nice gearing. I have 5.38's/5.43's in my HP44/9" and love them, then again 4:1 in the t-case with a auto tranny help out a lot as well. Anything lower than 5.38's and that is getting a little skimpy on tooth contact. What lug pattern are you running? Do you have a semi float or full floater D60? I would love a 8 lug HP44 and matching from the factory full floater 60, but the 35 spline 9" with removable nodular 3rd member is nice as well. As is a HI9 35 spline axle with all the trimmings.

What stuff do you East coast guys throw at your Jeeps and with what results? Do some of you guys have dana 30 or 44 holding up to 38-39" tires on mud trails?

I'm running an 8bolt pattern with a full floating D60. If you already have a D44/9 combo I would go with it. The only reason I didn't go with gears lower than 5.38 is that I may change to a HP D44 front down the road and 5.38 is as low as you can go in a reverse cut D44.

[Karl]

Originally Posted by BrettM

my understanding of tellico is that the rocks are big, but slippery. are there places you can get so bound up that you can push the motor over 3000rpm and nothing is moving (auto tranny)?

Once again Brett is right. The rocks are big, but it is always wet. You dont get bound up and I think that is what allows us to run larger tires without the same breakage as you guys on the west coast would experience. I run 38in TSL with Yukon shafts and joints in the front 44 and 31 spline Yukon shafts in the rear with spools on both ends. I have destroyed the rear, but that was due to way too much gas and tires spinning trying to show off for CRAWL. Another in my club run 40s on his 9"/44 with a aloys and 33spline rear and has had no problems from the front but cant keep a r&p in the rear. I think what it really comes down to is the lack of traction we have on the east coast. The only thing that I really know is that before I head yalls way I will have a 44/60 up front and more splines in the rear. The stories I hear make me certain me Jeep wouldnt last a day on the trails out there.

[Lucas]

The big thumbs down to the D30 is the balljoints. Under hard wheeling I basically went through a set of balljoints every trip.