All Gauges keep going dead, then airbag light comes on

[joe_peters]

I am a forever optimist.

I have a plan, but I don't have a 97+ with the problem so I offer it free to all:

Add about six + inches of wire to the connector. That might relieve strain on the connector enough to eliminate the problem.

Now, you could simply cut the wire and solder in a six inch section--two soldered joints and 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing per wire, or head to the salvage yard for a connector with wires attached cut from a harness--if the salvage yard would permit it, some won't.

That is my big and clever idea. Dragonslayer, you seem to have had a particular hard time with yours, are you willing to give it a try?

[JJacobs]

There is a product called DeOxit that may very well cure the problem. It is a spray-on deoxidizer and conductivity promoter- or something like that. It's specified by Ford for certain airbag connector issues and also quite expensive. Since it's not cheap, you may have luck calling a few Ford (or other?) service departments to see if they have it. R/R the cluster in the parking lot and give it a spray.

[Dragonslayer]

I use an electric contact cleaner every time I clean and apply dielectric grease to the
connector (with limited success). However, DeOxit sounds intriguing and I just may
try it.

My next plan for my '93 is to go to a self-pick wrecking yard and cut off a connector.
This will enable me to try to dissect it to see how, exactly, each female metal socket is retained in the harness connector block. I think that if I can remove each of the female
sockets and gently squeeze them with pliers to more strongly grip the male pins, I might be able to achieve a better, longer lasting connection.

The later model Cherokee ('97 and up) haven't yet trickled into the self-pick yards
in my area.

[92XJPortageWI]

My 98 does this, i found turning the ignition back towards the off position just slightly brings the guages back to life.

[rocknxj]

I am honored to be part of this faulty electrical connector club. Up to now, I've only been part of the dreaded death wobble club, broken center latch club, improper wheel offset and rubbing the control arms club, wobbly door hinge club, dead passenger window club, cracked exhaust manifold club, and broken driver's door speaker club. I love my XJ and all the wonderful experiences I get to deal with. It enriches my life and I am often amazed at how many others experience the same things.

As a new member of this faulty electrical connector club, I will contribue what I know with hopes of enlightening someone with similar experiences. My airbag light came on when I dropped off a rock and smacked my front JCR bumper hard enough to jar something loose. Shortly there after, I lost my horn. Today, a month after the airbag light, I lost my cruise control. I fully anticipate loss of my guages before I finally get around to removing my instrument cluster.

I will post up what I find, if anything, to this or any number of other similar threads. For now, I shall figure out how to remove the guages...

[SuzysJ]

Our 2001 started this problem the other day. Thanks for the info provided above, all!

Has anyone tried NOALOX on these terminations? I've used it for over 20-years on BATT and lamp sockets/terminations and never had to clean them again. (Yes, buy a starter battery and never experience any corrosion on terminals; my current battery is 2005. My 2003 build date truck has the OEM batteries and terminations never have needed cleaning in 170k).

"NOALOX does exactly what it's supposed to do, both in the electrical world and ham radio antennas. That is: to impede corrosion of similar and dissimilar metals joining together to make an electrical connection. In the electrical biz, this is primarily used for Aluminum cable. It is commonly used on copper too - mostly in high current situations

Can be found at Homer's Dept

Dielectric grease is only okay for preventing corrosion. It's sort of like WD-40 as it is better than nothing . . but it doesn't compare to KROIL .

If you use it, then wipe off any excess afterwards. Squeeze the tube to mix product up (or stir) before application.

On BATT terminals score them first (same for lamp sockets) and work in with brush.

On multi-term connectors use an applicator that allows precise coverage. Too much is not good.

Good luck

.

[lawsoncl]

Originally Posted by SuzysJ

Has anyone tried NOALOX on these terminations? I've used it for over 20-years on BATT and lamp sockets/terminations and never had to clean them again.

I would be reluctant to use it on a multi-pin connector like that, since it contains zinc and might short things out. Its great for battery lugs though. The key thing is to use a grease that keeps air out to prevent oxidation.

[keep0njeepin0n]

Originally Posted by rocknxj

I am honored to be part of this faulty electrical connector club. Up to now, I've only been part of the dreaded death wobble club, broken center latch club, improper wheel offset and rubbing the control arms club, wobbly door hinge club, dead passenger window club, cracked exhaust manifold club, and broken driver's door speaker club. I love my XJ and all the wonderful experiences I get to deal with. It enriches my life and I am often amazed at how many others experience the same things.

Welcome to the club man!!

[talontsi_95]

My 98 does this constantly. I just hit the top of the dash above the cluster with the palm of my hand and the gauges resume operation.

[SuzysJ]

Originally Posted by lawsoncl

I would be reluctant to use it on a multi-pin connector like that, since it contains zinc and might short things out. Its great for battery lugs though. The key thing is to use a grease that keeps air out to prevent oxidation.

No, have also used it in that configuration. Key is to be careful about amount. Takes very little. Leave no slop. On my '71 Chrysler I re-did the firewall connector (mains) that way and it was great for over 10-years.

[JTwthaXJ]

My "97 was doing something similiar, found that too much dielectric grease will cause the same problem. But I have since clean and shot wd-40, wiped excess off.. Problem now is strictly with the Airbag light, but it prevents the horn, and the cruise control from working too. I have checked all the fuses, and connections everything appears to be okay. But that little annoying light won't go away or let me express my road rage via horn currently. Got about 8" of snow outside and headed to WV this coming weekend and want this fixed for the upcoming trip. Suggestions?

[willsmysticcobra]

Wish we knew what was really causing this long term lol... Mine just started doing this tonight

[orange]

Kinda sounds like the connector on the cluster has intermittent connections on the back side connecting to the cluster itself. (opposite end of connector pin from where all the cleaning is being done. Where it connects to cluster circuit.)

Might be worth a try to reflow the solder on all the pins.

Just a long shot guess.

Good Luck,
Orange

[ff4500]

I think that I smacked my dash enough times that mine reseated itself.
I haven't had the issue in a year or so.

[coldoath]

Have this issue. Replaced the connector on the back as the TSB said to, didn't work. Tore into the dash for a week and finally said !@#%! it and now IDC. Gauges are optional I can turn my key a bit and it gives me a accurate gas tank reading and that's about all I need.