rear shock mounts

tdr1213 · Apr 17, 2004

I put in a 4* shim to adjust my pinion angle. This rotated the axle shock mount posts putting the shocks in a slight bind.

Will this cause my shocks to wear faster?

I've found two ways to modify the lower shock mounts. One (org922) maintains the original post style where the post is perpendicular to the axle. http://www.orgsmfg.com/product/rsm003.JPG

The other (war161) is a shock mount conversion that puts the shock post parallel with the axle. http://warriorproducts.com/catalog_new/images/WAR160.jpg

Any thoughts on which is better? Any better ideas?

PWRDrill · Apr 17, 2004

Unless you want to spend money, I think your best bet is to use the brackets that USED to hold your rear sway bar to the axle as bar pin eliminators. Not much binding after that. (I have the same 4 degree angle)

Kevin

Island XJ · Apr 17, 2004

Forgive my newbieness, I don't see how the bottom one will fix your problem. The org one looks harder to install (welding, etc) but it seems to me that it will allow you to place the bracket whereever you want in order to get the best fit. The bottom one would mount against the underside of the body, no? I'm not sure how that would fix yoiur angle problem.

Island XJ · Apr 17, 2004

PWRDrill said:
Unless you want to spend money, I think your best bet is to use the brackets that USED to hold your rear sway bar to the axle as bar pin eliminators. Not much binding after that. (I have the same 4 degree angle)

Kevin

Heyyy, I didn't think of that. Can you describe this in more detail? How would you do it?

tdr1213 · Apr 17, 2004

islandxj,

The shock mount conversion is installed on the lower shock mount. My guess is the post is cut off and a hole is drilled somewhere else in the shock mount. Then it bolts on. Seems easy because there's no welding, and the post angle isn't an issue because it's turned 90*.

woody · Apr 17, 2004

I have to replace mine soon and I am going with the ORGS...low profile and beefy.

Spectre006 · Apr 17, 2004

The war161 is for front shocks
Converts S1 style shock to the more conventional "EBI" mount
"EBI" mount shocks are more readily available, therefore more shock options
Uses 7/8" bolt to fill the existing body hole without slop
Includes 1/2" grade 5 cross bolt

Andy

Island XJ · Apr 17, 2004

Spectre006 said:
The war161 is for front shocks
Converts S1 style shock to the more conventional "EBI" mount
"EBI" mount shocks are more readily available, therefore more shock options
Uses 7/8" bolt to fill the existing body hole without slop
Includes 1/2" grade 5 cross bolt

Andy

That's what i thought too, it looks like a bar pin eliminator kit, not something that would bolt onto the axle.

tdr1213 · Apr 18, 2004

Here's the verbage for the WAR161:

Shock Conversion Mount
Convert your post mount to an eye mount using this quality steel formed part. Available in sets of two, with or without bolts and sleeves.
http://warriorproducts.com/catalog_new/images/WAR160.jpg

I thought the post mount only referred to the rear. Is the hole in the front for the shock considered a "post mount"?

tdr1213 · Apr 18, 2004

Here's another option. That puts the pin parallel with the axle.

http://warriorproducts.com/catalog_new/images/WAR101.jpg

Buck Jackson · Apr 18, 2004

tdr1213 said:
Here's the verbage for the WAR161:

Shock Conversion Mount
Convert your post mount to an eye mount using this quality steel formed part. Available in sets of two, with or without bolts and sleeves.
http://warriorproducts.com/catalog_new/images/WAR160.jpg

I thought the post mount only referred to the rear. Is the hole in the front for the shock considered a "post mount"?

yep, that's for the front mount, where it joins the unibody under the hood...

Buck Jackson · Apr 18, 2004

tdr1213 said:
Here's another option. That puts the pin parallel with the axle.

http://warriorproducts.com/catalog_new/images/WAR101.jpg

again, yep, these ones weld onto the axle tubes allowing you to put the shock 90* from the original mount. Cool idea.
Buck

jjvande · Apr 18, 2004

seems like that would make the shocks bind...

tdr1213 · Apr 18, 2004

It would make that shocks bind because the shocks angle outward from the body to the axle. That mount would only work if the shocks were perpendicular to the axle. Cherokees aren't.

Even though this shock conversion is for the front,
http://warriorproducts.com/catalog_new/images/WAR160.jpg
it seems it would work nicely on the rear axle mounts because one hole in the axle mount, bolt it on, and turn it slightly to match the angle of the shock.

Does that make sense? What am I missing?

PWRDrill · Apr 19, 2004

Island XJ said:
Heyyy, I didn't think of that. Can you describe this in more detail? How would you do it?

The brackets that hold the sway bar fit perfectly as bar pin eliminators. You just flip them over and bolt these brackets to the body where the shock's barpin used to bolt. Now you just buy a good fitting bolt and bolt your shock to the bracket.

Kevin

OT · Apr 19, 2004

Tractor supply spring perches, (2) 5/8" bolts with smooth necks, (2) 5/8" nuts, enough 5/8" washers for spacers between mount and shock.

Remove factory shock mounts.

Cut ends off new perches, insert bolt through hole in perch and weld, put perch on shock and place on axle in best position so as not to bind, and tack in place, remove shock and run your beads, replace shock. Done

Jump This · Apr 19, 2004

NOW you tell me!! :doh:

woody · Apr 19, 2004

I did something similar to Okie Terry: When converting an MJ 44 to XJ use, I had one of the old springpads cut in half, drilled holes, welded the bolts in, then welded the 'mounts' in the same fashion as the XJ: D/S facing rear, P/S facing forward.

Problems arose almost right away: The (grade 5?) bolt on the front-facing mount got in a scrap with Mr Rock...The Rock kicked it's azz

sheared off I 'fixed it' by drilling through the bolt/head and inserting a longer bolt through - facing rear, (also made a custom upper x-member to get rid of the BPs) and hung the shock to that. So both shox are now facing rearward, and maybe safer from Mr Rock & his posse.) Total Barkeater fix, but it held up to several more trails over last season. I do intend to re-fix it right though.

I am unclear if ORGS mounts allow bolt replacement when welded to the ax tube? Possibly upgraded by welding a nut to the mount, and use another nut & bolt + washers (with sleeve) or a bolt with a raised/smooth shoulder that would allow a good preload to the bushing.

Credits to MaXJohnson for the graphic:

OT · Apr 19, 2004

I did mine from Max's write up. Only instead of using one perch half per side, I used two perches (since they come in pairs) and chopped off the ends of each and used the hole that was already there.

Thanks Max!

Buck Jackson · Apr 19, 2004

Okie Terry said:
Tractor supply spring perches, (2) 5/8" bolts with smooth necks, (2) 5/8" nuts, enough 5/8" washers for spacers between mount and shock.

Remove factory shock mounts.

Cut ends off new perches, insert bolt through hole in perch and weld, put perch on shock and place on axle in best position so as not to bind, and tack in place, remove shock and run your beads, replace shock. Done

That's brilliant. Hope you don't mind if I copy you. :greensmok
Buck.

rear shock mounts

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