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UCA axle end bushing options?

I already had that axle out but I've done it with the axle in the Jeep also.
 
I'm not sure who's selling them currently but they have to be the type with a step machined into them.
 
They are just complete shells for making your own control arms, they are not designed for the factory bracket.
 
That passenger side UCA bracket will also give you trouble by breaking loose from the axle tube. If the bushing is spinning you might want to think about completely replacing that bracket. There are several options available, everything from reinforcement for the existing tower to replacement towers to complete truss assemblies.

Or you could decide you don't want to tear into that degree of upgrade just yet and simply tack weld the bushing to the existing tower.
 
The loose bushing is on the axle in the XJ now, but I have a D30 HP that I'm preparing to install. That bushing is tight, but I suspect the loosening that occurred in the installed axle is due to the forces created by radius arm suspension flex, so it needs to be addressed on the incoming axle. I'll probably go with the Ballistic Fab UCA mount which looks very nice.

I'm also contemplating running the radius arm as a 3-link. I see no obvious disadvantage to this, but I would switch to a JK UCA bushing that uses a 1/2" diameter bolt. One thing that has long puzzled me about 3-link suspensions is whether there is a tendency for the axle tube to spin in the diff housing. I'd read somewhere that the tube is a press fit, which would seem to make it susceptible to coming loose. But starting to get OT.
 
It you go with the 3 link set-up then you can upgrade all the joints to whatever you want!
 
So I have realized that running radius arm as a 3-link means that the flex-induced caster change will follow the driver side linkage, so caster characteristics would be different for left leaning and right leaning conditions. Could cause some funky handling.
 
That's not happening! Nothing changes but any binding.
 
Yes but within a small amount, quit trying to take it's off-road characteristics to the street. The radius arm has been successfully used and accepted for 60years on the road. You need to be realistic about how minimal your suspension travels under normal driving, who's cares what it does off-road!
 
Why not talk about the yaw that even a true 4-link still has just like the radius arms?
 
Agreed on the 3 link being no problem on the road unless you're racing grand prix....which, hopefully, you're not 😀. You're not flexing on the road....your caster change driven by the driver side link only is immaterial. I would absolutely go three link on your radius arms, and throw this thing in the cast mount on the pumpkin.Press in Johnny Joint w/ 1/2" bolt

Thank you for getting those measurements! That is helpful for sure. I ended up warrantying my moog upper bushings for new ones. Giving them a shot one more time. If they go bad very quickly like before, I'll be replacing my rubicon express upper arms (w/ flex joint) to one with a bushing at the frame end and pressing/welding in johnny joints to the axle.
 
No grand prix, but my XJ drives very stably on the road now. I'm gonna try driving for a week on 3 links. I guess there's no worry about the axle tube spinning in the diff housing?
 
If your that concerned about it, weld it!
 
RCP Phx said:
If your that concerned about it, weld it!
Click to expand...

Yeah, I probably will if I decide to stick with a 3-link radius arm.

During my first drive around town this afternoon with the 3-link radius arm setup, it drove fine. I couldn't tell any difference except perhaps it was a little more floaty and smoother on uneven bumps.
 
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