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For those wanting a complete WJ knuckle swap parts list

2001XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Canton, MI
Here is a complete parts list with pricing and vendors. The highlighted yellow parts are what is needed bare minimum. I used this as a time to basically upgrade my entire axle assembly so the cost is high but it can be done for around $800 which includes steering upgrade.

Figured I would share it in case guys wanted a more detailed list as it seems to be popular recently.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsqH3HlEyjKZdGNsN3VldHlIdFRpUWRRa003dHR2dkE#gid=0
 
you can get it to work without relocating your trackbar axle end mounting point but it is NOT ideal by any means. You definitely HAVE to relocate sway bar mounts IF you plan to run a sway bar
 
Do you have to weld new swaybar mounts and tracbar mount in order to do the swap?

You will have crazy bumpsteer and such with non parallel draglink/trackbar angles.
 
I already have a heim steering set up.

Could I drill the WJ knuckles and use the steering I have?
 
I already have a heim steering set up.

Could I drill the WJ knuckles and use the steering I have?

So you have a heim steering setup on stock knuckles now? Are you asking if you can simply swap out WJ knuckles in place of the stock ones?
 
So you have a heim steering setup on stock knuckles now? Are you asking if you can simply swap out WJ knuckles in place of the stock ones?



Yes basically. Knuckles and all the matching brakes parts of course.
 
If you have the heim setup on stock and assuming you are "stacking" the mounting of the tie rod and draglink, you would have to alter the length somewhat when swapping to WJ knuckles due to separate mounting points for the draglink and tierod. You would also have to come up with additional hardware for each mounting point, but in general it should work.
 
If you have the heim setup on stock and assuming you are "stacking" the mounting of the tie rod and draglink, you would have to alter the length somewhat when swapping to WJ knuckles due to separate mounting points for the draglink and tierod. You would also have to come up with additional hardware for each mounting point, but in general it should work.



Actually my tie-rod is under and my drag link is over the knuckle.

It's the whole "alter the length somewhat" I am concerned about. If the rods need to be an inch longer, I can probably accommodate that in the heim adjustment. If they need to be shorter, that would require cutting the rods.

When you say "additional hardware for each mounting point", what are you referring to?

Thank so much for your tips.
 
Also something to keep in mind for anyone looking to do this swap. You are not required to upgrade the steering to do the swap. If you are just looking for braking performance increase or don't want to do everything at once, you can run your stock or stock style upgrade with the WJ knuckles without issue. This means you don't have to build a new trackbar mount, swap wheels, etc if you want to keep downtime to a minimum. You can always upgrade the steering/trackbar at a later date. You will still have to remove or rebuild your swaybar mounts though as the upper arm of the passenger side WJ knuckle swings directly into it at full lock.
 
Actually my tie-rod is under and my drag link is over the knuckle.

It's the whole "alter the length somewhat" I am concerned about. If the rods need to be an inch longer, I can probably accommodate that in the heim adjustment. If they need to be shorter, that would require cutting the rods.

When you say "additional hardware for each mounting point", what are you referring to?

Thank so much for your tips.

I only said "additional hardware for each mounting point" referring to spacers for the heims. Certain kits utilizing the stock knuckles use spacers and mount the TRE and draglink end together ontop of one another or sandwhiching the TRE knuckle....Ive seen it done both ways.

If you went from a "stacked" configuration, going from a single mounting point to two mounring points, you would require the additional hardware. Im sure you know but the WJ pass. knuckle has the mounting point for the TRE and another one up higher for the draglink.
 
Also something to keep in mind for anyone looking to do this swap. You are not required to upgrade the steering to do the swap. If you are just looking for braking performance increase or don't want to do everything at once, you can run your stock or stock style upgrade with the WJ knuckles without issue. This means you don't have to build a new trackbar mount, swap wheels, etc if you want to keep downtime to a minimum. You can always upgrade the steering/trackbar at a later date. You will still have to remove or rebuild your swaybar mounts though as the upper arm of the passenger side WJ knuckle swings directly into it at full lock.

I run stock style steering with a WJ swap. did it for the brakes, and eventual steering swap dont wanna deal with diagnosing bumpsteer if I dont get it right the first time. WJ drops the knuckles about 3/4", but I threw on a drop pitman arm I had lying around to work on keeping the drag link flat. Ill drive over to Ruffstuff and grab trackbar mounts, DOM, and hiems, and more DOM to build OTK steering soon though. prolly before June.
 
Also something to keep in mind for anyone looking to do this swap. You are not required to upgrade the steering to do the swap. If you are just looking for braking performance increase or don't want to do everything at once, you can run your stock or stock style upgrade with the WJ knuckles without issue. This means you don't have to build a new trackbar mount, swap wheels, etc if you want to keep downtime to a minimum. You can always upgrade the steering/trackbar at a later date. You will still have to remove or rebuild your swaybar mounts though as the upper arm of the passenger side WJ knuckle swings directly into it at full lock.

In this case, what is the parts list?
 
I couldn't run a straight tierod with a RuffStuff diffcover.

The tierod would have run right into it.

Even with the WJ offset ends it almost touched it at full lock.
 
In this case, what is the parts list?

Well, if you don't want to replace NOTHING EXCEPT THE KNUCKLES, you can get it down to (u have to have ball joints so you might as well do all four):

2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Powerstop slotted rotors
Mopar Factory Jeep Grand Cherokee Akebono Caliper Kit 94-99
Grand Cherokee (WJ) outer steering knuckles 94-99
Grand Cherokee (WJ) caliper brackets 94-99
WJ knuckle flange spacer
Dana 30 Super, Ball Joint Kit (upper & lower)
*Timken Wheel Hub Assembly (if you don't have a 2000/2001XJ)


otherwise its best to replace unit bearings and u-joints while you are doing it.
 
Well, if you don't want to replace NOTHING EXCEPT THE KNUCKLES, you can get it down to (u have to have ball joints so you might as well do all four):

2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Powerstop slotted rotors
Mopar Factory Jeep Grand Cherokee Akebono Caliper Kit 94-99
Grand Cherokee (WJ) outer steering knuckles 94-99
Grand Cherokee (WJ) caliper brackets 94-99
WJ knuckle flange spacer
Dana 30 Super, Ball Joint Kit (upper & lower)
*Timken Wheel Hub Assembly (if you don't have a 2000/2001XJ)


otherwise its best to replace unit bearings and u-joints while you are doing it.

Thanks. First I am in the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th you meant 99-04 for the WJ years. Just making that correction for anyone else that reads this that might get confused.

I have a 2001 XJ, so it sounds like all I need is the knuckle, the caliper and brackets, and flange spacer from the junkyard.

The rotor, pads and ball joints from the parts store.

I've read that since I have the 2001 XJ there is nothing I need to do with the master cylindar. Should be ample for the WJ brakes.
 
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