• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Build thread: daily driven tow rig

Think i figured out my rear end issue, the banging and the sagging.

Stock shocks have an extra 0.81” of length when extended vs kyb (20.61” vs 19.8”), but less compressed length (12.73” vs 12.95”). Travel length of stock shock is just over 1” more than the KYB (7.88” stroke vs 6.85”). Bad design on their part 😏 i’ll be calling KYB to complain lol. I suspect that paired with these leafs that have more free arch than the originals, the lack of travel is causing the bump stops to hit and possibly blew the shocks prematurely (<5k miles)

gabriel hijacker shocks i have on hand should fix the problem. They have a 7.73” stroke length, 20.77” extended and 13.04” compressed length up to 200psi max. I’ll have to get bar pin eliminators to use them or press the bar pins into the top eyelet

Oddly enough, the rancho monotube shocks listed for up to 1.5” lift have the same measurements as the KYB 🤨

JK wrangler oem shocks are an option according to a thread i found here circa 2009, good for up to 4”-5” lift if i press the bar pins into the top eyelet from the xj shock and press out the small sleeve in the lower eyelet. Tenneco monotubes rated up to 4300lb curb weight vs xj’s 3100lb curb weight. Should be able to find cheap takeoffs on craigslist or marketplace

https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=966436


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thought i posted these pics but heres what i did on the dash/overhead console/visor upholstery. Visors got LED replacement bulbs. Cluster surround panel and dash top will get redone, not happy with the results (note to self; dont use gorilla spray glue dumbass). With the complex curves and cutouts, its a pain in the ass to wrap and relief cut the fabric properly once laid (mainly for IC opening and the hump over top the cluster)

Probably wrap the gauge pod in green to match visors and pillar trim once i get around to the pillars.

80294688d6d7eb98347b02283dd1d243.jpg



23cd971ed3a4b625c975ceb2060730a4.jpg

7955acd42b60fcdc5c65f7d9c46e43e3.jpg

9434c5b6953b0a96ba05caedf9fbb58f.jpg

e1ca814572ec4a1c4d082266a3b1735a.jpg

717cf81ced070f572c4e39c520acdac3.jpg

52192e44adc89893a992c21899e02cf5.jpg

439a01b556b11e2db59c0f4ad4da6d3a.jpg

40f961a1af8c3f1e294bc1899bb63144.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Night time lighting shots from in cab (led headlights and cubes, prior to clear markers and light bar). On road performance isnt quite as good coming off the cubes, they are really only good for throwing light upwards onto signs and for use as city lights with clear markers/switchback LEDs on
eb2d496ee67c5de124ee66bd9b892360.jpg

And after the light bar/clear markers. Also shots/vid of the rear led lighting conversion.
1fc1ce80c3c4d56df9759c8561e57cf8.jpg

e394534caf69ed26727055d73d4da795.jpg

78f64aa77710024605447c20d6b72af9.jpg

6875c12871f79e66fec8a44d628827f5.jpg

15f44b0269035b4d2eb7e64d2ee73caf.jpg

e0e2d39175ef635527ccaf38b85fb461.jpg
 
I forgot to measure the before on the suspension overhaul...after though (and still using stock front springs) im right around 18” from center of wheel to top center lip of fender arch. Need to recheck that now that theres 3k-5k miles on things, on more level concrete.

Ride heights (loaded):

Left rear 18 1/8”
Left front 17 3/4”- 17 7/8”
Right rear 18”
Right front 18 1/8”

According to THIS i should be around 17”-17.5” all around from factory.

So 2” lift will be closer to 3” by the time i’m done. Good enough for me. Not planning to run 31”/33” tires...maybe 245/75-16 in the future when im due for new tires (and the wj brake swap will happen then, depending on if i can find 16” classic or ZJ wheels). I think i want to bring the rear up a bit higher than the front, but not noticeably so. 1/4”-1/2” max


codename 99 problems: Daily driver/tow rig build thread
 
Need to go back in and shim the radiator. The ebay 3 row sits too low in the frame (1/4”-1/2”) and bows the upper support. This throws off the alignment of the fan shroud mounting tabs and top hose on the passenger side. Hose is rubbing on the underside of the hood and the fan shroud popped out causing the fan to rattle (baseball card in bike spokes noise).

I noticed this when i installed everything, didnt think it would be an issue since im using silicone g-plus hoses and everything is stable front to back/side to side.

Not sure how im going to fix it yet. The core has 2 pins welded to it on the bottom that slip into the frame. The factory bushings are there still, i may need to get another pair to slip on or washers to take up the gap. May also put some stick on closed cell foam blocks under the core ends. The mount pins are a bit short though so i cant stack too much or they wont sit into the frame properly. Its

For now, just do my best to pop the fan shroud mount tab into place, and i’ll shorten up the rad hose a bit to pull tighter at the radiator or thermostat housing. I’ll worry about it in the spring when i get the new AC condenser and recharge the system. Gotta get back in there anyhow to install the trans and power steering coolers.


codename 99 problems: Daily driver/tow rig build thread
 
I had that issue with my Cold Case radiator. Look at post #236 in this thread: https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1150722&page=16

If that doesn't show, in short what I did to make up for about a 1/4" shortage was to make 1/8" washers to space the bottom mounts up and then to space the upper isolators up. I split the difference top and bottom. The spacers were made of 1/8" rubber sheet material. I punched them out with gasket punches.
 
I had that issue with my Cold Case radiator. Look at post #236 in this thread: https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1150722&page=16

If that doesn't show, in short what I did to make up for about a 1/4" shortage was to make 1/8" washers to space the bottom mounts up and then to space the upper isolators up. I split the difference top and bottom. The spacers were made of 1/8" rubber sheet material. I punched them out with gasket punches.


Awesome! Thanks for that 😊 i have some self stick foam blocks here that my buddy gave me with the yakima roof rack to fill the gaps in the crossbar mounts that i was going to try wedging under the corners to lift and isolate from vibrations, but they are more likely to lift the rad out of the mount holes too far.

That cold case rad looks exactly like my blackhorse racing one from ebay. Plastic plugs and all 😅Not bad for $85 with free 2 day shipping and definitely a huge improvement over the stock one with plastic tanks.


codename 99 problems: Daily driver/tow rig build thread
 
Update: todays task was installing the Crown 52001125 HD front springs. New moog insulators went in on top of the old ones (couldnt get them out easily and gave up screwing around with them). Also new grade 8 cad coated spring retainers and hardware. While in there I installed RuffStuff’s The Cure.

Netted about 1.5” of lift up front once it was done. Kind of surprised since the free length of the stock springs that came off was an inch longer. Nice surprise, no need for the RRO 2” lift kit.

Also tackled the back end noise. Turns out the KYB Monomax shocks i put on less than 5k miles ago were blown. I could push them down by hand and they took forever to rebound. Needless to say i’m livid and will NEVER buy another KYB product again.

Replaced with Gabriel Hijacker air shocks i ordered awhile back because i had a feeling i needed them...aired to 100psi. 2” of lift in the rear and a decent ride to boot. One more reason not to order the RRO kit...more money for disc brake swap parts! 🤣

Still planning to do BPE’s and install the rear shock flag nuts. Once i get the hitch on i’ll do the airlift kit and OBA, do the rear brake swap, then im good for awhile.

Next task is installing Upper and lower control arms and an alignment (hopefully the alignment shop will do the control arms Monday when i take it in)
37308c7d32caf1990d3421a2ac6ac80a.jpg



2eaf160640ad58324c5fa35fa9d77096.jpg

e0cf73c1f99f5576aab5e3461c697692.jpg



codename 99 problems: Daily driver/tow rig build thread
 
I could probably still squeeze another 1”-1.5” of lift out down the line and be content with that. I dont intend to run 31”/33” tires so anything more and its a waste. Only reason for lift is more ground clearance and to overcome squat with a trailer loaded behind. Plus its easier for me to get in and out of the jeep with my health issues. Anything more will make it troublesome

As it sits now, the omix ada 18280.09 bumpstops in the rear have 4-4.5” of clearence to the axle. According to the interwebs, these stops are 4” long...so overall 8.5” of axle to frame clearance. Gabriels have 7.73” of travel, so even without stops i will never hit the axle.


codename 99 problems: Daily driver/tow rig build thread
 
Alignment and control arms will have to wait a bit. Definitely need to have them shift the front axle to the passenger side a bit (trackbar adjustment or bent control arm) and look into the camber on the driver side.

Hopefully i wont have to do ball joints just yet, i’d like to hold off until i do the WJ knuckle and brake swap for that. Debating on if i want to do 1 ton steering upgrade at the time too 🤔 already have the RC tie rod bar installed, just need the ends and the links to complete it


codename 99 problems: Daily driver/tow rig build thread
 
To do list:


Powerstop z36 ZJ rear brake rotors
(X) ZJ rear disc dust shields
ZJ powerstop z36 rear brake calipers
ZJ rear brake pads
Powerstop stainless steel braided brake hoses
Powerstop parking brake shoes
Centric parking brake hardware kit

WJ front knuckle/brake/steering swap
1 ton steering

Class III/IV hitch $150

AirLift airbag helper springs
-onboard compressor
-air tank

99 v8 durango steering box (faster ratio, more powerful assist)
-ironrock durango steering box spacer
-durango steering box brace
01-04 WJ steering pump
Hayden 678 power steering cooler

Azzys design works NP242 linkage
JCR Offroad molle panels (center console, quarter windows, tailgate, trunk cubby)
Unibody frame stiffeners

Picked up an unbranded Glowshift red digital dual air pressure gauge on ebay tonight to throw in the gauge pod with the matching trans oil temp gauge. That’ll be the next thing i do 👍🏻


codename 99 problems: Daily driver/tow rig build thread
 
Nice.

If you ever get around to having your buddy make up some of those stickers in white I am interested.
 
Back
Top