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What year 8.25

az89xj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Arizona
Hi,

need to swap D35 on my daughters 89XJ.

Could someone please share the best year/model for a direct bolt in?

Thank you
 
An '87-89 XJ rear dana 44. They can be found in those years that had the factory tow package.

'97 and up c8.25 will have 29 spline shafts.
 
97+ 8.25, just need to make sure you are swapping correct ratios. If it's an auto should be 3.55s, manny will be 3.07s.
 
need to swap D35 on my daughters 89XJ.

Could someone please share the best year/model for a direct bolt in?

The 29 spline Chrysler 8.25 from a 1997+ is more desirable for off-road use than a D35, but for mild 4x4 use or mostly street use, any year or model XJ Cherokee axle will do.

Just make sure the gear ratio matches the front axle.
 
Thank you all, did not know any XJ axle was bolt in. This is great news as I was quoted over 1k to have Dana 35 rebuilt.

As far as gear ratios, this is a great excuse for me to pull the front drive shaft. This is a first car for my daughter and not meant for her and her boyfriend to go out in the desert:)
 
Note that driveshaft lengths vary according to axle/transmission combinations. Here is on example of some differences:

Drive shaft length measured from the center of each u-joint on the tube part of the drive shaft for 4.0L with AW4 and NP231.

29 spline 8.25 .... 27 7/8"
1997 + D35 ........... 28 7/8"
1987 D44 .......... 29 5/8"

Drive Shaft Length for late 1990's + with NP231 and NP242 should be the same.

Note that those numbers are only for an AW4. Numbers will be different for an AX15 or AX5.

What this suggests is that while looking for a donor rear end you may want to source another driveshaft too.

Additionally, in case you were not aware, the U-bolts which attach the axle to the rear end are not to be re-used. You will need to get new U-bolts for the new axle. Also note that axle tubes come in different diameters depending on the rear end. Don't buy your new U-bolts until you know for certain what rear end you are installing.

I know those are some basic details and you may not have needed that information, but someone will be figuring those things out the hard way, and it is easily avoidable with just a bit of knowledge.
 
One more detail: Does the vehicle in question have ABS? If yes then know that you will be giving up ABS if you convert to a Chrysler 8.25.

That may or may not matter to you.
 
Note that driveshaft lengths vary according to axle/transmission combinations. Here is on example of some differences:



Note that those numbers are only for an AW4. Numbers will be different for an AX15 or AX5.

What this suggests is that while looking for a donor rear end you may want to source another driveshaft too.

Additionally, in case you were not aware, the U-bolts which attach the axle to the rear end are not to be re-used. You will need to get new U-bolts for the new axle. Also note that axle tubes come in different diameters depending on the rear end. Don't buy your new U-bolts until you know for certain what rear end you are installing.

I know those are some basic details and you may not have needed that information, but someone will be figuring those things out the hard way, and it is easily avoidable with just a bit of knowledge.

Great information. Thank you so much.

Any idea of stock drive shaft length on 89 XJ with Dana 35?
 
I don't know without searching.

You need to also specify which transmission (AW4?).
 
97+ but it's a negligible improvement over earlier axles and still drum brakes

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
He not looking for an upgrade, just trying to get his daughter's jeep back on the road. Like I said on the other post, finding another d35 is your best, cheapest bet. Car part .com will give you the year range, which I think is all years, just watch the ratio, which is most likely 3.55.
 
As far as axle ratios, virtually all XJs built with the 4.0 and AW4 (automatic) got 3.55 gears in the axles. Virtually all 4.0/5-speed transmission models got 3.07 gears. There will be limited exceptions, but I'd wager that 9 out of 10 stock-looking XJs you'll find in the yard with a 4.0 under the hood will follow that rule.

Oh, and don't be afraid to go after the axle from a 2WD XJ - the rear driveshaft likely wouldn't be the right length, but there's nothing different about the rear axle in those compared to the 4x4s...

Regarding the U-bolts, it might be worth trying to get one of them off the junkyard vehicle intact so you have the option of dropping it on the counter at the parts store and saying "gimme 4 new copies of this"...
 
I know its not what is supposed to be done but ive never bought a new u bolt in 25 years of working on cars and never had a failure. And if a u bolt was going to break from stress my daily run would do it! You also aren't supposed to compression splice brake lines but I rekon a lot of us are guilty of that too.
 
He not looking for an upgrade, just trying to get his daughter's jeep back on the road. Like I said on the other post, finding another d35 is your best, cheapest bet. Car part .com will give you the year range, which I think is all years, just watch the ratio, which is most likely 3.55.

Thank you for the help. Reason for looking this route is there is only 1 D35 in phoenix junk yards right now.

If the 8.25 is really a drop in, this would be awesome as there are more possible donors.
 
Whoa holy cow man no way. I'll reuse old u-bolts again and again, but compression fittings on brake lines is an absolute recipe for death. Use a flare tool and put the correct union on if you have to make a splice. I'm sure it'll work 9 out of 10 times, but I don't like those odds.
 
For the 8.25 you need the driveshaft, spring perches, and u bolts minimum. May also need the rubber brake hose. E brake should be the same I think.
 
Sorry, I got my terms mixed up, the perch is welded to the axle. I meant the plate that the u bolts go through on top of the spring. The 8.25 has a thicker tube than the 35 so the u bolts are wider so the plate they go through has the holes in a different spot. I had temporarily put a 8.25 in while I was rebuilding my limited slip in my 35. Which saying that reminded me that the ebrake cables and rubber brake line are the same, just the driveshaft, u bolts and plates were different. Good luck with the ebrake cables though. They were the hardest part of the whole thing!
 
I know its not what is supposed to be done but ive never bought a new u bolt in 25 years of working on cars and never had a failure. And if a u bolt was going to break from stress my daily run would do it! You also aren't supposed to compression splice brake lines but I rekon a lot of us are guilty of that too.

We sell steel compression fittings for brake line repair they will pass a west virginia state inspection we have sold hundreds of these things over the year's we also have the brass fittings but they will not pass the state inspection t
 
Good luck with the ebrake cables though. They were the hardest part of the whole thing!


Those can be a challenge.


I found I was able to make a tool to compress the three tabs on the inside of the brake backing plate by using a piece of 1/2" copper plumbing pipe. I think the copper was just a bit too large for the job, but by using a roll type tubing cutter and not reaming out the inside I was able to effectively reduce the inner diameter and achieve the goal.
 
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