- Location
- Hammertown, USA
The magnetic drain plug out of the radiator with less than 20 miles on it.
-
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Project Unicorn - a light duty trail rig
- Thread starter cal
- Start date
This is why I choose to just tolerate my aftermarket noisy motor mounts vs running OE type rubber ones again. I've seen this happen to myself and others too many times.
I was also going to ask what that drain plug was out of ... never seen that come out of a radiator before.
Details on the Stroker? Knock on wood I don't think it's going to be that long before my 172K mile long-block lets go... I've been running on the same bearings for ~ 70K miles after driving it a month or so w/a cracked cylinder head on my '01 before replacing it.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
That drain plug is in fact out of the radiator. One of the features of the Mishimoto radiator.
Installed the SFR Supersoft motor mounts. Actually found no additional vibe or noise at all.
On the stroker, who knows. I'll probably end up going to the stroker shop and grabbing whatever parts are on the shelf and bolting them together.
Installed the SFR Supersoft motor mounts. Actually found no additional vibe or noise at all.
On the stroker, who knows. I'll probably end up going to the stroker shop and grabbing whatever parts are on the shelf and bolting them together.
- Location
- Wasatch Range
Yes, it's possible to rotate the inner C's on a D30 without removing the coil buckets. Not as easy as having a bare housing, but not the hardest thing that I've ever done.
Details here: https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&page=10
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
In case you're still looking for radiator suggestions how about a Novak?
- Location
- Torrance, CA
https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1150722
I think he already went over the Novak offering.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Not a ton of work this weekend.
Got the other knuckle rotated to 6" and moved out .244", and all welded back up, as well as the short side sleeve installed.
My welds arent as pretty as Dallas's but they should hold.
Started tacking together the coil bucket / lca mount. I don't quite like how it fits and am going to see if I can draw up some changes and have Dallas cut them out for me.
Got the other knuckle rotated to 6" and moved out .244", and all welded back up, as well as the short side sleeve installed.
My welds arent as pretty as Dallas's but they should hold.
Started tacking together the coil bucket / lca mount. I don't quite like how it fits and am going to see if I can draw up some changes and have Dallas cut them out for me.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Yesterday I went up to Russ's to order some parts to build myself a new engine. Trying to keep it conservative, but at the same time after driving 4643 for a bunch of years my perception of conservative may be broken.
Ended up ordering up an Edelbrock head, ported and polished, with small LS valves and duramax valve springs. Comp 235-4 @ 113 LSA. Custom pistons built for the Edelbrock combustion chamber putting us in at 11:1 compression. Re-using the Harland Sharp roller rockers off of 4643, as well as the crank (which went out for a grind and balance). And then of course a list of small parts, double roller timing set, HV oil pump, tin, etc.
I'll run it on the JTEC ecu but let Mark tinker with it a bit. Banks or aFe late model header with the factory 2wd 49 state downpipe. 62MM BBK throttle body, TBD ~27 pound injectors, and add a wideband and aftermarket knock sensor to an LED in the cab, just in case.
After talking it over with Russ and James, we think that should run just fine on 91. If we find that we're wrong, I'll just be out a set of pistons and 3 weeks of wait time.
I'll guess we'll see if that Mishimoto radiator is worth its salt, after all.
Ended up ordering up an Edelbrock head, ported and polished, with small LS valves and duramax valve springs. Comp 235-4 @ 113 LSA. Custom pistons built for the Edelbrock combustion chamber putting us in at 11:1 compression. Re-using the Harland Sharp roller rockers off of 4643, as well as the crank (which went out for a grind and balance). And then of course a list of small parts, double roller timing set, HV oil pump, tin, etc.
I'll run it on the JTEC ecu but let Mark tinker with it a bit. Banks or aFe late model header with the factory 2wd 49 state downpipe. 62MM BBK throttle body, TBD ~27 pound injectors, and add a wideband and aftermarket knock sensor to an LED in the cab, just in case.
After talking it over with Russ and James, we think that should run just fine on 91. If we find that we're wrong, I'll just be out a set of pistons and 3 weeks of wait time.
I'll guess we'll see if that Mishimoto radiator is worth its salt, after all.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
Supposedly. I've seen separate part #'s listed.
lazyxj
NAXJA Member #1310
- Location
- Los Angeles
Every 4X4 XJ I have looked at has the down pipe dent unless its LP30, found in the 2000-2001 XJs.
My 97 has the dent, the 2001 doesn't.
That said, I have never looked at a 2X4 pre-2000 XJ to check.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
dunno.
either way, that's the stuff we're gonna run.
being told 3 weeks to get the pistons made.
either way, that's the stuff we're gonna run.
being told 3 weeks to get the pistons made.
- Location
- Fullerton, Ca
I'm running a 99 header instead of the pretzel 2000. Same EO number for Banks and JBA. Passed visual except last year when the genius couldn't find Jeep Cherokee for my cold air intake on the EO. K&N had it listed as a Chrysler Cherokee.:tears:
Hoping I can do something similar with an LS swap.
Hoping I can do something similar with an LS swap.
khales6
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
Maybe I missed the reason, but why did you move the knuckles out .244 inches? Just curious.
Looking forward to hearing about the stroker. Might do one in our 99. I built one for my old 91, but I think I’d have Russ do one this time.
FWIW, my 99 was a 2WD and has the dented down pipe.
Looking forward to hearing about the stroker. Might do one in our 99. I built one for my old 91, but I think I’d have Russ do one this time.
FWIW, my 99 was a 2WD and has the dented down pipe.
- Location
- Hammertown, USA
When you center the coils on the tube (instead of having them 1" forward of it) you have to inboard them a little, and they rub against the inner C's. I was cutting and rotating anyway, so it was only the swing of a hammers extra work to outboard them. After talking to a couple of industry pro's and looking at about 50 used dana 30 shafts, 1/4" is about as far as you can go and still be sure not to leave the seal surface on the shafts when turning (the axles move in and out while turning). The first knuckle stuck at .244, so that's where I put the second one.
Really 3/8 would have been better, but sometimes you take what you can get.
- Location
- Lakeside, CA
When I put that HP 30 in the 2wd 2000 (CA emissions), the yoke was maybe 1/4" away from the down pipe. It was quiet until you took a right hand turn then it self clearanced. Ended up having to add clearance to it. Just something to keep in mind.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
4wd 00/01s have the same downpipe.
- Location
- Lakeside, CA
Wasn't sure, this was a 2wd that I shoved a high pinion in, a low pinion would've had tons of room. This one took some heat and some love.
