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Colorado B/S Thread

Re: The Colorado BS thread

Yep, 31 spline. I’ll check into 33 upgrade since I plan on running 40’s at some point on it.

You plan for 40s ... when that plan gets close sell the 9/44 it's " cheaper " to run 40s on 8 lug stuff there is no fancy stuff needed to run 40-44 tires a rear 14 is pretty reliable stock at those sizes a front 60 needs 35 spline outer stubs some newer ones already have that a 78-79 needs inner and outer the inner neck downs are crap I have 6 pieces as a conversation piece that was once a shaft . The 9/44 combo based off of junkyard housings are expensive to polish for 40s .
 
The Colorado BS thread

You plan for 40s ... when that plan gets close sell the 9/44 it's " cheaper " to run 40s on 8 lug stuff there is no fancy stuff needed to run 40-44 tires a rear 14 is pretty reliable stock at those sizes a front 60 needs 35 spline outer stubs some newer ones already have that a 78-79 needs inner and outer the inner neck downs are crap I have 6 pieces as a conversation piece that was once a shaft . The 9/44 combo based off of junkyard housings are expensive to polish for 40s .



Understandable. That’s the plan, just not anytime soon haha. For now, new shafts in the 9 and have some fun.

6 pieces?! Jesus man! I’ll have to check that out sometime.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Ordered a 030-035 liner for my mig gun since the new gun only came with the 023-030 liner and it seems to bind up easier when the gun is curved and I never had that happen with hobart gun it replaced running the slightly bigger liner . I also feel the urge to order one if the eBay cheap inverter stick welders and see if they live running off a generator as I want a stick welder for things I can't fit a mug gun in as I had a fun time welding the artec shock towers up with the mig gun a stick would have been great skinny and easy to fit in limited space. The flea bay one is 160 amp and cheap enough not give a flying $#%@ if it dies.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Yeah, for 40's the D44 and OE 9 inch housing aren't going to be great. Your best bet would be to either go matched tons or build custom axles.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Damn, feelin' kind of lonely over here!

I have to replace the intake/exhaust gasket, and search for the cause of the "vague" steering that I still experience.

I’d be happy to help, but I though “vague steering” was normal - haha.
OK, more vague than usual. Things did not go as planned this weekend, I'm tearing down the steering column to tighten up the tilt mechanism, again.
 
The Colorado BS thread

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Old stage road yesterday. Above the storm and in the sun.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

The pro co2 nitrogen regulator I bought off Amazon at first seemed to just leak from the safety relief and was only finger tight , well it turns out the regulator is crap and it destroyed my 1000psi gauge on my ori dual fill kit .I turned the valve on the regulator and at about a couple hundred psi the thing just let's out full tank pressure it pinned the low pressure guage on it a full turn clockwise and pegged it against the stop and I unfortunately I had
to have open the ori 1000psi gauge and that was pegged past 1000 against the stop pins , and after I bled it off it now reads 300 psi with no pressure on it. So for $365 I just killed the gauge and need to replace the gauge and buy a working regulator I will probably buy a different brand .

On a positive note did my taxes and I owed $ 500 to the State but the high tax rate I did on my savings when I withdrew funds gets me $2600 back from the feds .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I just had to order a new block heater for the truck. Most likely its the cord and not the element that went out on mine, but at 18 years old I figure I might as well replace both. The old 7.3L wasn't too happy starting this morning at 10deg. She still did it, but she was grumpy.

I also ordered a coolant filter setup for it. I intend for this to be the last truck I ever own so I'm trying to slowly add little things here and there to make sure it lasts forever. I think this summer I'll be adding an inline transmission filter too.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

I just had to order a new block heater for the truck. Most likely its the cord and not the element that went out on mine, but at 18 years old I figure I might as well replace both. The old 7.3L wasn't too happy starting this morning at 10deg. She still did it, but she was grumpy.

I also ordered a coolant filter setup for it. I intend for this to be the last truck I ever own so I'm trying to slowly add little things here and there to make sure it lasts forever. I think this summer I'll be adding an inline transmission filter too.

Yeah, the coolant filter setup is nice. Probably need to replace the first one I put in.

Mine probably needs new injectors at some point. Was 6 quarts low when I went to get emissions apparently...and it doesn't leak any oil.

So, most likely going in with the fuel, which would explain it being a b*tch to start in the cold (if it even will) without it being plugged in. I can crank and crank until the batteries are dead...nadda.

Ugh...just another $2500.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Have you checked your glow plug system and the connectors for the valve cover pass through on the harness?

You can have the full set rebuilt for 1,100$, or are you planning to upgrade too?
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Have had the Dodge for 8 years now and 198,000 miles still on all the factory parts ...starts below zero no issues with no heater sitting outside ....How many miles on your guys Ford's ?
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

You can try to start another Dodge vs Ford vs Chevy pissing match all you want. We're talking about a $50 block heater on a 17 year old truck (that I bought with all the upgrades for 17K$ 3 year ago). There is also a big difference with cold start when you're talking about HEUI injection systems vs the common rail setup on your truck. They literally use the engine's oil to fire the injectors off, so when its cold they tend to struggle. We have the same issue with all of our CAT equipped trucks at work. That said, my truck has never failed to start for me no matter how cold it was when left unplugged.

FWIW my truck has just over 140,000 miles on it now and I bought it from a friend at 105,000. He owned it for 40-50K before me. I can't speak for the first 50-60K obviously, but I do know that since my friend bought it the only repair parts its needed (outside of normal wear/tear items like ball joints, etc) was the cam position sensor (free under recall), the driver power seat switch, and now the block heater. Everything else we've done to it is merely for the sake of making it a better tow rig and to help make sure it lasts. He installed a 6.0L trans cooler upgrade, deep sump aluminum trans pan, Transgo shift kit, high pressure oil line crossover, high capacity aluminum rear diff cover, mild chip, and some gauges to monitor everything. I've since added a Detroit true-trac rear limited slip and a bypass engine oil filter. I'll be installing the coolant filter when it shows up and getting an inline transmission filter kit later on too. It adds a spin on filter to the cooler return line that filters better than the stock ones in the pan, plus is way easier to change.
 
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Re: The Colorado BS thread

Have had the Dodge for 8 years now and 198,000 miles still on all the factory parts ...starts below zero no issues with no heater sitting outside ....How many miles on your guys Ford's ?

I really have no care into the Ford vs. Chevy. vs. Dodge debate...they all had pluses and minuses.

Arguing about one being better just puts people right there in the online special olympics.

I know quite a few people who've had major issues with their Dodge's and Chevy's. Some near brand new, if not brand new, and older.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Scored a new Yukon Zip locker for the D30 for $575...score.

All I have left to source is 4.10's and install kit.

Then I'll have pretty much everything to polish the living hell out of this D30 :laugh:
I happen to have a master install kit and a 4.10 gear set collecting dust....

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Yeah, the coolant filter setup is nice. Probably need to replace the first one I put in.

Mine probably needs new injectors at some point. Was 6 quarts low when I went to get emissions apparently...and it doesn't leak any oil.

So, most likely going in with the fuel, which would explain it being a b*tch to start in the cold (if it even will) without it being plugged in. I can crank and crank until the batteries are dead...nadda.

Ugh...just another $2500.

Is your blow by bad? Could be sucking up crank case oil. Those 7.3s always seem to drink some oil in cold weather.

I still believe one of the best things you can do for a 7.3/6.0 isadd a good bypass oil filter like amsoil. It does a lot for helping the high pressure pump and injectors. And they can be changed every other oil change. I personally wouldn't go more than. 3-4000 on intervals either.

And always use the motorcraft glow plugs. Aftermarket ones never get as hot.
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Wondering just how much better a set of Sticky trepador of tsl 43sx Sticky would grab smooth rocks and wet rock vs a pitbull rocker. My 42s are like new but I am considering the sticky rubbers anyway .
 
Re: The Colorado BS thread

Is your blow by bad? Could be sucking up crank case oil. Those 7.3s always seem to drink some oil in cold weather.

I still believe one of the best things you can do for a 7.3/6.0 isadd a good bypass oil filter like amsoil. It does a lot for helping the high pressure pump and injectors. And they can be changed every other oil change. I personally wouldn't go more than. 3-4000 on intervals either.

And always use the motorcraft glow plugs. Aftermarket ones never get as hot.

The FSM says every 5-7K for an oil change and that's with 15/40 dinosaur oil.

I've got the Amsoil bypass filter on mine. They say to replace it (the bypass filter) every 70,000 miles or 2 years. I change my oil once a year (about 10-12K) and use Rotella T6 Synthetic. My main oil filter gets replaced at the same time (I only use WIX filters) and the bypass filter every other year. With that bypass filter my oil is still gold colored after 5,000 miles.

I haven't had to do glow plugs yet, but you can get a lot of those parts from International for cheaper. Remember, its basically a hopped up T444E. That's what I did on my previous 1996 F250.
 
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