• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Wack's D44 Build 1996 xj

zaroot

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Marylandistan
96 xj
Swapping 86 wagoneer axles Dana 44 front and rear
Just had last outing on my d30/8.8 and 35" MTRs.
New rounders are 15" raceline beadlocks on 37" TSL

Will be doing a basic progression summary

Only real question I have at the moment is about Dana 44 knuckles. My FSJ 44 does not have flat top knucks. I have found a 1978 GM Dana 44 that has flat tops for cheap. Uses 6 bolt spindles as well. Driver side already drilled and tapped. Question being, can I use just the GM d44 knuckles and bolt all my FSJ d44 spindles, hubs, rotor, caliper? Or do I need to stay GM from knuckle outward?

Have Used this page over the years for most of my tech and last build. http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html
 
Last hoorah
047b2e8a43f275a343d1549c43796a02.png


Getting some work done
2037e70acf233e09953ac84e95939d54.jpg

9f7df913c959d140f24a0ec911a0c886.jpg

bcda57d5f2f072a07efc2d26e419ab19.jpg


Pic of GM d44
ce98a0ee9c015452d9474256f1f92c62.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That's all I needed to hear. Thank you

I was unsure due to that page talking about 73-76, since they started phasing in the 10 bolt in 77. Plus there's a statement about having to use brand specific from knuckle out, so I wasn't sure if you could swap between Dana this and that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
the FSJ basically uses GM stuff. everything from the brake caliper mount/spindle out will bolt on. i actually use the GM small bearing spindle and a ford hub to convert my chevy stuff to ford 5on5.5 bolt pattern.

one suggestion... it looks like you intend to run the coils over the axle tube. this will stretch the front axle. which is fine. but with high steer you will have to move the steering gear forward on the frame for the pitman arm to clear the tier rod (depending on the steering setup you choose and where you set full bump).

another suggestion... because you are putting the coils on top of the tube... consider running the track bar further down the tube, possibly in front of the coil, in order t get it as close to the same length as the drag link as possible.
 
Gotcha, makes sense.

Yeah I'm measuring about a 1.5-2" push forward, since the factory d30 buckets sit a bit further ahead of the tube centerline. Everything seems in check for the most part. Track bar should have clearance, and mount will be spaced like suggested, to parallel drag link. Regarding the steering, the xj box/pitman is currently sitting with plenty of room to accommodate a 1.5-2" axle push. I know the high steer arms push your tierod/drag link connection further out on top of the knuckle, and depending on how far it cycles, I see your concern. I'll mock it up first and adjust the bump stops accordingly. Already know they'll need to be reworked as I will be running these 37s on the same 4.5" lift


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Has anyone had luck with this kit? ES numbers match Moog 7/8-18 ton parts. Says the arms are billet. I just hate buying DOM online, shipping cost alone for Ruff Stuff kit I want is $60. This plus locally sourced tubing would be about half price

1e3c0b9534277909eaa9449ad0969ff4.png


13c3456f48f429966730c3dc7f4f7e5d.png



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
to accommodate the high steer arm i had to install a longer pitman arm to still get a turning radius. this is what hurt my ability to push the axle forward without moving the steering gear. like i said, your results will vary, but it was an issue i had. i also was willing to give up zero up travel.

13312664_1004796186241464_3710418855518779078_n.jpg
 
I could remember wrong, but won't that FSJ rear axle be to narrow for an XJ?

I seem to recall them being 61.5 front and 58" rear.
 
one suggestion... it looks like you intend to run the coils over the axle tube. this will stretch the front axle. which is fine. but with high steer you will have to move the steering gear forward on the frame for the pitman arm to clear the tier rod (depending on the steering setup you choose and where you set full bump).
While coil placement really doesnt affect where the axle sits, wouldnt moving the coil from behind the axle centerline to in front be making the wheelbase shorter? (Assuming you corrected control arm length to keep coils over upper coil buckets?)

edit: nevermind, for some reason I was thinking the coil sat behind axle centerline on a D30. Derp derp.

to accommodate the high steer arm i had to install a longer pitman arm to still get a turning radius. this is what hurt my ability to push the axle forward without moving the steering gear. like i said, your results will vary, but it was an issue i had. i also was willing to give up zero up travel.

13312664_1004796186241464_3710418855518779078_n.jpg
What pitman arm did you use?

I used a FSJ pitman arm, and pushed my front axle forward a couple inches (I want to say 2-3") and didnt have any clearance issues at full bump.
 
What pitman arm did you use?

I used a FSJ pitman arm, and pushed my front axle forward a couple inches (I want to say 2-3") and didnt have any clearance issues at full bump.

FSJ.

with both sides at full bump and wheels pointing forward the tie rod and drag link are parallel. this dictated how far i could push the axle forward. but it is a little dependent on what you build, right? i run inverted T steering on top of the parts mike high steer arm.

these photos were mocking up the track bar:
10407935_956773211043762_117252046261480026_n.jpg


12791045_956773227710427_4688955039492090158_n.jpg
 
Last edited:
Picked up the GM axle. Got pass side knuckle off and ready to send out for machining. Trying to compile a list of seals I need, and will be throwing in fresh ball joints while I'm in there. Never had a problem with Spicers, but I think I will go Moog for trail use because I can flush the grease as needed. Got steering and tube on order. Will clean up housing some more while waiting on parts man.

d348ae5f22911d1f21a4c22241ab8c08.jpg


09eacd0af5957fb73675e07560e768ff.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Got billet arms, GM TREs, seals, drive shaft joint, and ball joints. Knuckle getting sent out to WFO. Called 5 machine shops in the MD region and no one wants to do it. JB Machine in White Marsh MD did my last one, but their price escalated and they're 2-3 weeks out. Minor setback but what can you do


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
to accommodate the high steer arm i had to install a longer pitman arm to still get a turning radius. this is what hurt my ability to push the axle forward without moving the steering gear. like i said, your results will vary, but it was an issue i had. i also was willing to give up zero up travel.

13312664_1004796186241464_3710418855518779078_n.jpg

Have you considered running a Chevy Astro steering box? It's what I had to do on my S10 when I went to this axle.

It's reverse rotation, so the pitman comes forward off the box. (I can't recall if the XJ is the same way, but I don't think it is or else I'd have used one of the 4 boxes I have laying around).
 
I had a 94 s10 with Ford d44/9”. It got an Astro box with forward facing arm. I haven’t shot the sight lines yet, but the geometry appears to work. The high steer arm is close to stock knuckle proximity; Depending on how far that tierod pushes forward.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Got billet arms, GM TREs, seals, drive shaft joint, and ball joints. Knuckle getting sent out to WFO. Called 5 machine shops in the MD region and no one wants to do it. JB Machine in White Marsh MD did my last one, but their price escalated and they're 2-3 weeks out. Minor setback but what can you do


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bonzpartz off of Ebay did mine and I got my arms from them as well. Very happy indeed.
 
Bonzpartz off of Ebay did mine and I got my arms from them as well. Very happy indeed.



I went with WFO. Md to Ca and back in 9 days. $65. And they even pressed out my old BJs. Machining looks great, threaded in studs by hand. Clean taps. Shipping was an additional $13 each way USPS


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top