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Projext "V8 XJ" Build

Other than the price of that dakota digital cluster, it looks good. And they make nice stuff.
Would definitely be cheaper to run aftermarket gauges, if the stock gauges do not work.

One thing I think will be a bit easier for when I do an LSx swap is having a renix and the more simple wiring. Although, I have not looked into much detail on that. But less complex than the OBD2 setup.
 
Other than the price of that dakota digital cluster, it looks good. And they make nice stuff.
Would definitely be cheaper to run aftermarket gauges, if the stock gauges do not work.

One thing I think will be a bit easier for when I do an LSx swap is having a renix and the more simple wiring. Although, I have not looked into much detail on that. But less complex than the OBD2 setup.

The Dakota cluster is actually a very good price in comparison to a nice Autometer setup.

I had the fan controller before and was very impressed with it.
 
Nice work so far. I'm fairly certain you can get a set of Autometers for a lot less than that Dakota universal dash though unless I'm looking at the wrong price. Is it really $850?
 
No updates this weekend. As a real estate agent, I need some homes to close so I can make some extra spending cash.

I did however build a workbench today! I've always just sat on the ground if I needed to do something, but it's just too uncomfortable.

I own a pickup
BB502724-5ECC-4CC3-835A-B04807D69438_zps768puxfy.jpg


Finished product
EF3561F4-B254-42B3-BED4-8FB79D32F42A_zpshlttvmwr.jpg


Next project will be disassembling the TC (car still fits in the garage, barely but it fits!)
5934CE9D-5A79-4D53-A14A-78B86DA36EC6_zpsunpeckhc.jpg
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How to - De-Pin the C107 connector -

The C107 connector is the only connector to integrate the body harness to the engine harness. It sits just to the left of the oil filter in the back of the engine bay. I couldn't figure out how to de-pin the connector until I finally got some smaller screwdrivers.

This is what the connector looks like. You start by removing the back cover and the rubber insulator piece. They'll just slide back but remain on the wires. It's easy to remove the cover (you'll figure it out)
0387BE6F-B1D1-4804-BA8D-E97028B2801C_zpsq2mbpitw.jpg


The inside of the connector has this red piece. It needs to come out.
4E43C991-0E46-43B4-9334-ED71B0B682B2_zps5uovrx7c.jpg


This is the back of the connector. The way it's designed it looks like you can remove the wires from the back, I could not. The very top left hole (and the one below it) is the retaining clip for the red piece. Just press down on the second hole down. The red piece has little arms that stretch down the side of the connector (you're just pressing on these). The red piece will start to come out. Press an even distance on each side of the red piece so it doesn't bind up.
8555F39D-EB54-48C3-A31C-C1592E5B8535_zpsocrvxt5y.jpg


There is a small retaining piece that needs to be held up to remove the wire. Just hold it up and pull the wire from the back. It should slide out.
4CF0C04F-67CC-4A52-A953-B4EAE1FF339D_zpsuivborln.jpg


Remove your unneeded wires and put the connector back the way you took it apart!
 
I wouldn't consider the 4.8 as an option, it's a lot of work for a small gain.

Hmm. I don't know how the power bands compare but the 4.8 with a cat-back & a tune makes +100 HP & +65 ft-lbs before you've touched a wrench to it. Not sure you could install a 4.8 any cheaper than you could build an equivalent stroker but I'd be glad to have one in an XJ anyhow.
 
Hmm. I don't know how the power bands compare but the 4.8 with a cat-back & a tune makes +100 HP & +65 ft-lbs before you've touched a wrench to it. Not sure you could install a 4.8 any cheaper than you could build an equivalent stroker but I'd be glad to have one in an XJ anyhow.

You're going to do the exact amount of work as you would for a 5.3 or 6.0 and get a slight gain over the 4.0.?
Makes sense, good luck.
Reread the post- I wasn't comparing a 4.8 to a stroker., I was comparing a 4.8 to a 5.3 or 6.0.
 
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Hmm. I don't know how the power bands compare but the 4.8 with a cat-back & a tune makes +100 HP & +65 ft-lbs before you've touched a wrench to it. Not sure you could install a 4.8 any cheaper than you could build an equivalent stroker but I'd be glad to have one in an XJ anyhow.
The price difference between a 4.8 and 5.3 is pretty negligible. The difference between a 5.3 and 6.0 is greater.

I've pretty much narrowed it down to using the 5.3. I'm going to try and find a 5.3 with year matching 4x4 transmission.
 
The price difference between a 4.8 and 5.3 is pretty negligible. The difference between a 5.3 and 6.0 is greater.

I've pretty much narrowed it down to using the 5.3. I'm going to try and find a 5.3 with year matching 4x4 transmission.

If it's possible to do, go for the 6.0. I've tuned mine as far as I cam and now I'm looking at cam and heads for more. I guess it depends what your doing and who you're riding with. The guys I play with outrun me with LS1s and 6.0s. I wish I had more than I do with the 5.3
 
If it's possible to do, go for the 6.0. I've tuned mine as far as I cam and now I'm looking at cam and heads for more. I guess it depends what your doing and who you're riding with. The guys I play with outrun me with LS1s and 6.0s. I wish I had more than I do with the 5.3
Do you think a 2001-02 DBW LS1 would be worth it? Prices look fairly reasonable for them...

My only hesitation; I'm trying to complete the swap for <$4500 total. Price is a concern. I don't mind spending money if i need to, but I don't want to end up just spending out the ass.

Something like this: Worth it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-Chevro...ING-/141731029062?hash=item20ffd3e046&vxp=mtr
 
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The major difference between a 5.3 and a 5.7 is bore, and the 5.3's iron block can be opened up. The LS1 has a different accessory drive setup & intake manifold, yes, but the engines are very similar when you are down to the long block.
The "car" LS motors only make financial sense if they are needed for a smog legal swap or are going in something that handles. Also - once an LS1's bores need to be re finished, the block is usually done for.

I disagree that 100 HP and 65 lb-feet is a "slight" gain but hey, that's just me. Sounds like John is really hauling the mail :)
 
You can usually pick up an 05 5.3 with 4l65e trans for $500. LS will cost way more. If you have a budget and aren't looking for monstrous power, the 5.3 is a very good option, and can make a lot more than stock LS power for an extra grand. Either way, the 5.3 has a better power to dollar ratio. It just won't make 700hp.
 
The major difference between a 5.3 and a 5.7 is bore, and the 5.3's iron block can be opened up. The LS1 has a different accessory drive setup & intake manifold, yes, but the engines are very similar when you are down to the long block.
The "car" LS motors only make financial sense if they are needed for a smog legal swap or are going in something that handles. Also - once an LS1's bores need to be re finished, the block is usually done for.

I disagree that 100 HP and 65 lb-feet is a "slight" gain but hey, that's just me. Sounds like John is really hauling the mail :)

The one reason a ls1 is compelling is because the intake will clear the XJ hood. I'd really like to not cut my hood. I was kind of already accounting for a LS intake.

You can usually pick up an 05 5.3 with 4l65e trans for $500. LS will cost way more. If you have a budget and aren't looking for monstrous power, the 5.3 is a very good option, and can make a lot more than stock LS power for an extra grand. Either way, the 5.3 has a better power to dollar ratio. It just won't make 700hp.

Where the hell do you find a 5.3 for $500?
 
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