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Red coolant in "new" XJ?

Borgli

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hagerman
Hey, so my 4.7 stroker/restoration project is nearing the finish line and I had a quick question.
Now that I've replaced the entire cooling loop, got a fresh block and an aluminum head, could I run red coolant in it? The kind thats supposed to last 10 years? It occurred to me when I topped up our 2013 Ford.

Ive always been told to run blue in it and that mixing colors is a no go.

So bottom line, is red safe for "new" XJ?
 
I do not know what your referring to, you could look into Evans, I've been thinking about that for a while. I currently use the std 50/50 pre-mix Prestone in my stroker.
 
You should be fine switching over.

I plan to do the same thing.
 
Color doesn't mean much any more, you need to read the bottle and decide what you want to go with. You're basically dealing with 3 "chemistries" when it comes to coolant. None are compatible and I'd be wary of coolant that claims to be compatible with all types when you see what mixing coolant types does to a system.

As long as the system has been fully flushed or is using all new components then you can fill with whatever you want, just stick with it over the long run, or you risk turning your system into a jelly filled mess if you start mixing.

The old "Green" stuff is Ethelye Glycol. Also known as IAT or Inorganic Acid Technology. Typically 2 year 24k mile life.

Organic Acid Technology (OAT). This is what the well known Dexcool is.

Then HOAT. Hybrid Organic Acid Technology.

Jeep actually ran into this issue when they switched the JK from OAT to HOAT in the middle/end of the 2013 model year. The coolant types weren't compatible and some JK owners wound up turning their cooling systems to jelly later on. If you had a late 2013 model or a very early 2014 model there was a chance you could have gotten either of the coolants on the assembly line. Someone figured out the VIN cutoff for it but that's not relevant here.

I've read a few articles that suggests that different technologies can be better or worse in the long them in regards to aluminum or iron parts but I'd have to dig those up. It basically came down to the Ph levels of different kinds of coolant and differing PH levels being better for Aluminum and Iron. In your case using an Aluminum head on an Iron block I'm unsure which would be "best". I believe that HOAT coolants are the typical "go to" for most manufactures today with different regions (North America, Europe, and Asia) using slightly different formulations. The world of engine coolants has gotten insanely complex due to this.

Anywho all that typing to say, If the system is new or thoroughly flushed run what you want.

Here's a totally not confusing color chart and even this info is generalized

coolant_application_chart_2015.jpg
 
I have not kept up on the newer G30, G40, and G48 coolants.

I would think given the age of the our vehicles, G-05 would be a good switch if you wanted to switch away from the good old green.

I want to say I have never had trouble switching from Green to G-05 which is what happened a lot back in the earlier 2000's. It is also what Chrysler did when they switched away from Green.

Never mix Dex-Cool with anything or introduce it to anything unless you brown baby poop in your cooling system.

I would avoid Dex-Cool and don't see any reason to try anything newer or exotic like G30, G40, G48, or any of the Japanese coolants no matter how good or bad they may be. G-05 works fine and has extended life formula.
 
I was at NAPA a week or so ago, and even the newer jugs of Zerex Green advertised 5 year/ 150,000 life. Zerex is a Vavoline brand and almost all (or all) NAPA branded oils and coolants will also be valvoline.
 
devildog0;246668040 Here's a totally not confusing color chart and even this info is generalized [img said:
https://www.aa1car.com/library/coolant_application_chart_2015.jpg[/img]

Interesting chart.

Most interesting to me because it shows GM starting to use DeathCool in '97, yet that is what my '96 Impala SS came with. I got rid of that stuff right off the bat. It had a bad reputation already. I ran the green stuff for a few years (with frequent changes) then switched over to HP Gold Quantum Blue. That has worked well for us.

However, Cat ELC/EC1 is what I am planning to run next time anything is due for a coolant change. Figure a good coolant flush. Pull the radiator to flush it with the garden hose. Run the garden hose through the heater core and flush the block as well as possible. Then run a coolant flush chemical through the reassembled cooling system. Then several flushes with de-ionized water. Then finally refill with the new stuff. I don't expect any issues after that process.

Note that Cat ELC/EC1 is a coolant spec, not just a branded coolant. I think it is the Rotella version of that which is easily found at Tractor Supply for a reasonable price.
 
Good old Prestone green extended life, 5 year life if what I use in my water cooled cars, my old VWs are aircooled!

I usually change it out at 2 to 3 years max, being at 2years for a boxer motored Vanagon, cause of thin head gasket sealing area on the boxer motor.

Dex cool is bad juju. Dads cousin had it destroy his Buick intake manifold, seems it is not compatible with some plastic bits.

I have 4 water cooled cars, all get the good ole reliable green stuff.

I also have a flush and fill hose fitting on my water cooled cars, makes change and flush easy.
 
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