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2x6 sliders with door trimming

sdspearo

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Encinitas, Ca
I need to replace my sliders and rockers and thinking about going the 2x6 with door trimming route. Even with reinforcement and outriggers I'm concerned about the sliders moving/getting knocked up higher and eventually interfering with the doors. See pic, there's only approx. 1/4" clearance between bottom of door and door sill/slider. Anyone do this mod only to find out later that the sliders eventually interfered with the door bottoms?



 
I’m about to do the 2x6 rockers/sliders thing. I’m doing it for a couple reasons. One, the rockers need attention, so I’ll be working on them anyway. Two, for protection from incidental bumps from trail. By no means am I rock crawling this thing, I’m more apt to be climbing over a log and bump a rocker/slider that way. I’d think you have to really get crazy bouncing the thing hard to push them up enough to get the doors.


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I've done a high and low rocker replacement. I personally dont think the high is worth the effort.

When you did the high rocker replacement did you keep the doors? Any concern of the rockers eventually closing that ~1/4" gap and hitting the door bottoms?
 
I kept the doors. Didnt seal the bottom of the door up. Should have........ lots of noise. On the plus side, if you brake a window, the glass falls out the bottom
 
Art, I did not cut mine up to the sill late. I was rushed and didn't want to trim the bottom of the doors. If I did again I would go higher and cut the doors like you are thinking of doing. I actually used 2x3 box tubing 1/8 thick.I recommend 1/4 thick. I took My 2x3 box steel and cut in-half and welded it back up like a triangle.. Lot of work but looks like factory.
 
Here are a few pics I just took.... because I didnt do the 2x3 I had to use other box material to tie it all together
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I cut the bottom of my doors and never closed them back off, no issues. I also ran 1x3 vertically from the bottom of the 2x6 down to the rails in 3 spots per side. The rear one tied into the leaf spring hanger, the middle into my cage base plate, and the front under the kicj panel/ a pillar. I plated from the 2x6 down to the edge of the floor pans with flat stock laid at the same angle as the 1x3s. I hit them hard, crumpled the 1.5x.25 wall rub rails in a few places, but the box tube never moved. The rockers were probably the main reason my footwell didnt cave in when that Jeep got totalled.
 
Hey John, thanks for posting up those pics. That first pic looks like the gap between the door and slider remained pretty even, which is what I was concerned about. I'll probably copy what you did with the outriggers and have them intersect the corner of the floorboard.
 
I cut the bottom of my doors and never closed them back off, no issues. I also ran 1x3 vertically from the bottom of the 2x6 down to the rails in 3 spots per side. The rear one tied into the leaf spring hanger, the middle into my cage base plate, and the front under the kicj panel/ a pillar. I plated from the 2x6 down to the edge of the floor pans with flat stock laid at the same angle as the 1x3s. I hit them hard, crumpled the 1.5x.25 wall rub rails in a few places, but the box tube never moved. The rockers were probably the main reason my footwell didnt cave in when that Jeep got totalled.

Cool. Your sentence in bold above is the confirmation I was looking for.
 
My 2x6 rockers have never budged and I have come down on them hard more times than I can count. Having them tied in to not only the plated frame rails, but also my cage, a-pillar, and rear tube fenders helps I'm sure.

As you know I did the 'high-cut' which requires trimming the bottom of the doors, and yes I still run my doors in the winter. The gap between the doors and 2x6 is small, maybe 1/8", from day 1 and the gap is the same today.

We are just getting ready to do the 2x6 rockers on my sons XJ, in fact I go to pick up the steel tomorrow. We probably won't get to the project for a month or two as we still have to plate his frame rails first. But, we are considering doing the 'low-cut' on his. Not because higher is bad or anything, but I just don't want to mess with his doors at this point.
 
Yeah, 1/8" gap is small, and good to know that that they haven't moved at all on you. I have a bolt in cage and will find a way to tie it into the outriggers as well as reinforcing the pillars.
 
Best pics I have.
I like being able to tie fenders and eventual roof rack into them slash cage.
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Thanks. Yes I plan to work and paying projects plus my welder went down. Took me a week to get it going. Xj drug it out of the shop just an hour ago.

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I cut mine to the sill and trimmed the doors. They haven’t moved at all. I have 3 2x2 outriggers per side and a rub rail creating even more leverage. They were strong enough to pull my Jeep over after laying it on the side and they didn’t move at all. I do have stiffeners as well. It was a lot of extra work but I’m also not worried about being water tight or anything. The extra clearance is nice. A large part of the work was the outriggers. I didn’t put bends in them or anything and wanted them up high as well so I had to cut the floor where each one went from the frame to the slider. I did put some RTV there to keep water off the floors at least.
 
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K suspension sales outriggers for the low cut they're nice but on the spendy side.
I'd share link but couldn't figure out how
 
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