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Oil comparison?

brtb

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Orlando, FL
Ok, so I've seen the oil filter comparison (two words: not Fram), and I just looked at the oil additive test (two words again: no Lucas)... are there any listings/tests/etc for oil in general? Maybe something that goes through which brands of oil are better than others, or which weights of which oils are better to use in our I6's... or is all this just wishful thinking? =]

Kinda too late for this change, got 6 quarts of havoline 10w40 ready to go in tonight (unless that's a very bad idea for some as-yet-unknown reason?), thinking about trying the synths next time...
 
It used to be that 10-40 had poorer lubricating properties than 10-30 because of the additional viscosity extenders; i.e., more viscosity extender equals less oil. "Used to be" means 20+ years ago and things do change.
 
I have seen it suggested on another forum (i.e. one that is devoted to oil - not another Jeep forum...)that 0w-40 Mobil 1 ("European Car Formula") is the best choice for the 4.0 after looking at a number of oil analysis reports. Sold me on it (at least for a try) and I noticed a small (possibly coincidental) increase in gas mileage and an equally small increase in the speed at which the engine reached normal oil pressure. Take it for what it's worth...
 
brtb,

Here is the discussion from another forum, please read! I myself use synthetics! Mobil 1 and Mobil One oil filter M1-301. Hope that helps!

http://www.4wd.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5588

BTW, my 2000 2wd 4.0L Cherokee has seen some miles, it was about 34K on the clock before I purchased her, and I just switched over to synths, as long as your oil seals are not leaking, it should be safe to load up on synths. Just the picture from using Mobil One on the VERY CLEAN camshaft cover convinced me that I should switch! :laugh3:
 
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dogtired said:
brtb,
BTW, my 2000 2wd 4.0L Cherokee has seen some miles, it was about 34K on the clock before I purchased her, and I just switched over to synths, as long as your oil seals are not leaking, it should be safe to load up on synths. Just the picture from using Mobil One on the VERY CLEAN camshaft cover convinced me that I should switch! :laugh3:

My 98 has seen MILES :D It has currently over 135K on the clock and I have switched to synths at about 40K~60K (exact time/mileage eludes me). In any case, I use the K&N oil filter (something I remember from a thing I read a while back about it being same if not better then Mobil1... and since it's same price... why not?) and I got no leaks :D and it runs nice and smooth.... Mileage increase? Hard to say.... there are so many other things that affect it, that I'd have a hard time making a definate statement either way.
 
Okay, got 6 quarts of Mobil1 synthetic 10w30 ready to go... if anybody has any reasons why I shouldn't put it in (or has any better ideas), say so now =]
 
Why not ??? After you get done do your diffs and transfer case too !!! I have been running mobil-1 in my 98 for the last 190,000mi, using K&N, Mobil-1, Mopar oil filters, whichever is handy. I've also been using Mobil-1 in my AX-15 for about the same period with on ill effects, so far, though that is not reommended, supposed to be GL-3 only in there. Auto tranny I would not use synthetic, that has had some really mixed results here over the years. I also use syn grease, mobil-1, castrol, etc.
 
RichP said:
Why not ??? After you get done do your diffs and transfer case too !!! I have been running mobil-1 in my 98 for the last 190,000mi, using K&N, Mobil-1, Mopar oil filters, whichever is handy. I've also been using Mobil-1 in my AX-15 for about the same period with on ill effects, so far, though that is not reommended, supposed to be GL-3 only in there. Auto tranny I would not use synthetic, that has had some really mixed results here over the years. I also use syn grease, mobil-1, castrol, etc.
Yeah... the AW4 gets fed Dex3, heard too many bad stories to do otherwise. As for the other stuff, only 1 diff and no tcase... 2wd for the moment (until i ever feel adventurous enough to go for the 4wd swap.) Do probably need to do a general lube though...

Any comments on the 10w30 opposed to the 5w30, 15w50, 0w40 or whatever else has been recommended different places? =]
 
brtb said:
Ok, so I've seen the oil filter comparison (two words: not Fram), and I just looked at the oil additive test (two words again: no Lucas)...QUOTE]


I think this 'test' might be a little biased based on the fact that the guy is selling the Schaeffers brand oil. What do you think? I am not trying to defend or sell Lucas products but I like them and have used them for years. It added 20 pounds of oil pressure on my 188,000 mile 4.0 and it runs like new one. I think any good quality oil will do the trick and as far as additives are concerned, I've never lost an engine because of one. :cheers:
 
Running Amsoil ATM 10-30 in the WJ with drain intervals of 10k, ATM 10-30 in the XJ (plan on doing 6-7K drains after I do a 3k drain to get out all the goobers & fix the oil filter adapter leak), and AME 15-40 in the CJ since it get lots of low rpm operation, drained yearly since it really gets no mileage on it to speak of....
The tractors get the AME 15-40, and all the 4 stroke gas engines on the mower and other equipment get the 7500 10-30.
The rest of my junk leaks oil to much and just gets 30w Havoline and a bottle of STP when the temps get hotter (the 460 in the 78 has run almost 200k now, untouched, on this combo and still runs strong)
Oh yeah and WIX filters, I buy them by the case & the Amsoil is alot cheaper in the big jugs than in the qts.
Mike B.
 
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I used synthetic oils in some motors, since they first came out for wider useage in the late 70´s early 80´s. Haven´t really noticed any/many down sides, except maybe the price. Have opened up motors that saw nothing but synthetics there entire life. Fairly hard used engines, the lack of ridge in the cylinder walls always impressed me and the cleanliness of the inside of the motor. Most of the motors saw bi-yearly (spring and fall) changes irrlevant of the mileage.
The viscosity ratings on most synthetics seem to be eqivilant ratings. Like a synthetic oil has a 5-30 rating. If you actually run them through a viscosity meter, they are thinner at room temp. than the equivilant fossil oil. All that I´ve tested, even at the 10-50 rating, flowed faster than a lower viscosity fossil oil, say 5-30. Most of these tests were made in the early years of synthetic oil. I´ve noticed the synthetic has changed some over the years.
I typically use 10-50 or 0-40 synthetic in older motors.
 
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