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how to build sub boxes

chrslefty

NAXJA Forum User
Location
centeral phx az
i knoew theres another thread but ......
im going to be to build a new box soon and i need some advisce on matreials to use ,asimbly tips ect.

im planing on having a box /storage compartiment for the back with a flat top covering / contoured the sub will be forward facing 10,s .not sure wich wood to use ,or if i should use two differnt types and combine them . i would like it to sound good .

if any one has some links to resorces i would be a great help !
yes someone else has done it but the didnt list type of wood/dimentions ect.

thanks chris
 
most are made out of 3/4 mdf and have bracing for structural support... depending on the box i would say go with a sealed for ease of construction... look up the types of subs you are using or refer to your owners manual and dee hoe much cubic feet of air each one requires in a sealed box... from there you can make each chamber and then build whatever shelving you need also to seal it use liquid nails at the junction and run a bead on the inside to make sure it is sealed... i use cheap drywall screws and go right into mdf no problem if you are unsure about the straighness of your drills drill a pilot hole... i ususally seal my entire box inside and out with polyurathane for semi air control but also water damage... then use 3m spray adhesive and put the carpet on or herculine if its going to be thrown around or used for tool storage...

1 or 2 sheets 4x8 mdf 3/4
2 tubes liquid nails or 1 - need a gun as well for tube
screws - skiinier the better 1 3/4 long is ok
spray adhesive or herculine
automotive carpet
chop saw or skill saw
jig saw for holes for speakers


there are som online calculators that can give you dimensions for air space

this is a general start but i think unless i have left something out is what i do for building a generic box material wise
 
aparke4's pretty much nailed it. The only things I would add or alter are:

MDF, HDF or high-density premium plywood are pretty much the most reliable choices for materials. I would not recommend using cheap plywood, it will resonate much easier.

If you can swing it, make a laminated baffle with two or more thin layers of MDF, this will really lower the resonance.

Glue all your seams.

Instead of using urethane inside the box, use a rubberized coating, like herculiner or undercoating. It can increase sound absorption and lower your resonant frequency.

Seal the speaker in place as well, a thin bead of caulking when you are installing it will ensure no air escapes past the edges at high load. Ensure its attached to the baffle with T-nuts to avoid it working loose.

In a sealed enclosure, at least 2/3 of the interior space needs to be filled with acoustical stuffing. If you can't locate it, use polyfill quilting material. It can be found at fabric stores or fabric sections of department stores.

You'll get better sound out of it if its a vented enclosure (ie. a lower rolloff frequency). If you can locate the T/S parameters of the speakers you will be using, you can easily calculate the dimensions necessary using a program like WinISD. Check this thread here for way too much information: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=906978

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions...
 
thanks for the additional info - yes i forgot poly fill in a sealed box and to seal the speaker itself - rubberized on the inside? huh i am going to try this... that makes a lot of sense but i have never seen it done...

oh and if want to get fancy you can put cool plexi windows and neons on it for that mexi tuner look - or if you can fiberglass and not make too big a mess- but in a jeep make it hold up

using 2 layers of mdf is ideal but man it gets heavy - only use that if you are going to comp it with a sub that is over 800-1000 rms... those are some serious frequencies being produced and the stronger box will help produce better sound in terms of resonance and dB levels... oh and if you want to be slick mounts the amp hidden ususally under the rear bench and make some quick speaker disconnects so you can easily take the sub and box out for extra space... this has saved me time many a times... trail gear, etc adds up and you ususally dont need 2 12's to bump on the trail or to carry other things - again pm me or beej for anything
 
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