• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Bad Coolant Loss

BIGSLVRXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
My 90 XJ 4.0 is going through coolant incredibly quick. It has no leaks-that I have seen and I just had all major cooling components replaced. I have a new upper radiator hose, water pump, and radiator. The only thing I can think of is I had a Maaco paintjob done and they sprayed the front of my radiator which is (correct me if im wrong) my condenser fins. Would this have anything to do with my problem and if not what could it be?
 
Start it up and let it warm up, start looking for leaks, if you have access to a cooling systems pressure tester pump the cooling system up to 17lbs or even 20lbs and watch. The pressure tester can be done either running of shut off.
Seat of the pants guess, you tightened the clamps with a screwdriver instead of a 1/4" socket set or nut driver and did not get a good seal. When I put new hoses on I coat the inside of the hose about 1" in with indian head gasket cement and then put them on. If it is not spraying all over the engine compartment then it is probably coming out the lower hose either at the water pump or radiator. The pressure method is the better because you can watch to see if it holds pressure while drinking a cup of coffee.
 
Well the only thing is ive been looking for coolant on the ground and cant find any. I just hope its not getting in to my oil supply. I've heard if the internal gaskets go bad coolant can leak into the oil and vise-versa. If the condenser fins are clogged I wonder if that could be making it consume more coolant though. Just a thought but I wonder.........
Anyway if it is mixing with my oil it will be a crapload of money to fix I'm sure. If anyone has ideas on if the condesner fins being clogged could do it or any other reason please respond.
Jeepguy
 
I occasionally, especially after a trip through the mud, remove the electric fan and shine a flashlight from the motor side out (works better at night), they can be clean on the front and dirty inside. At most anyplace, that sells refrigeration supplies, you can get a fin comb, helps cleaning the condensor without bending the fins (much).
I´ve had leaks, that were in spots, where the coolant evaporated almost as soon as it leaked out. Often a white stain or a stain the color of the coolant, where this is happening. Like mentioned before, the bottom radiator hose (engine side) is a prime spot to look. Under the pressure bottle, is another. Rubbing likely areas, with a paper towel, will often show some color (red/green withever color your coolant is). A very small pinhole leak in the radiator is also a possiblity. Look for places the radiator fins look roted (or green), often down low (on the inside), seams sometimes split and throw a coolant mist out.
If a head gasket is bad and coolant is getting in the oil, the oil level will rise on the dipstick, oil often looks like a mocca milkshake.
If it´s getting into a cylinder, overheating is often the result and the coolant foams in the surge tank. Rubbing a paper towel lightly at the exhaust opening after start up (not the soot, just the liquid)will often show a stain the color of your coolant (if the head gasket is leaking). There are better tests, these are just indicators.
 
Is your 90 open or closed system ??
 
I think the coolant bottle is just leaking but its the system without the radiator cap.
 
Replace the bottle and the pressure cap on it before going any further.
 
Have you checked your oil? It has to be going somewhere - if it's not on the ground it's in your oil. The oil will look milky if there is any coolant in it. It could also be coming out of the exhaust...look for steam.
 
Would I be able to notice the milky-ness on the dipstick? Or would I have to drain the oil?
 
That coolant bottle is under 17lbs of pressure, if it has a crack and/or is 'leaking' that is where your coolant is going. Get a new bottle and pressure cap [that cap is what maintains pressure on the system] they generally go bad because of age, location and just a lousy design.
 
Hey Rich I think you might be on to my problem here. I have a crack in the very top of the pressure bottle I can't tell if it's all the way through or not but in the top would it leak out? Also, I can't tell if the cap is junk is there a way? Last here if I do have to replace the whole bottle where is the best place to get a new one? O'Reilly's/NAPA or internet?
 
Just replace them both, Summit also has one made from aluminum, Eagle did the first one and several others have followed. It uses a standard radiator cap, cost is double the OEM one but will last forever. Other alternative is to convert to an open system. Yes, if it has a crack in it it will leak. Coolant passes thru it when the engine is running... In alot of cases it will boil over as the coolant is not held a pressure so boils out..
 
You guys talkin about summit racing? If so do you know a part # for the bottle?
 
Do you have an oily film on the rear window? A blown headgasket will cause the antifreeze to be pumped out the exhaust and will leave an oily film on the rear most of the time.
 
No I have no antifreeze on the back window and no white steam is being blown out thats why I'm thinking its the coolant bottle. Its the only thing I havent replaced yet. Actually I was kind of mistakin' Im not going through just huge amounts of it but there is a noticeable loss. Still lookin for the summit number though.
 
jeepguy1990 said:
No I have no antifreeze on the back window and no white steam is being blown out thats why I'm thinking its the coolant bottle. Its the only thing I havent replaced yet. Actually I was kind of mistakin' Im not going through just huge amounts of it but there is a noticeable loss. Still lookin for the summit number though.

Shoot eagle a PM, he has the part number and the procedure, it's on the boards here too somewhere that a search might turn up but it's is not a DIRECT replacment, the tank as I remember is a bare tank that needs a couple of fitting added to it, screw in NPT types I think.
 
jneary said:
i ave read the aftermarket ones are thinner. i recommend the factory replacement. it meets manufacturers standards as opposed to a repro.


'Sorry but, in my experience (vast w/ this coolant bottle-thing - - see my earlier post here), I have had MUCH BETTER success/life from aftermarket bottles than the crap the steelership sells.
 
Back
Top