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Future Overland XJ Build

Kfdez01

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NC
Hey guys, I've finally decided to pull the trigger on a 1997-2001 build. At this point I've done weeks of research on the car after having zero to little knowledge on it. My plans are almost finalized, I just want to make sure everything is right and done correctly the first time. I will be doing almost all the work myself. I will be linking my build plans below. Please let me know what you think or what I should change/consider!

https://1drv.ms/w/s!AmYWsPjISrb3gd4rKZRaq8B7cpPp9A?e=699HuY
 
Looks like a good start for a list. Wildpeaks aren't particularly aggressive. Wrangler Duratrac are well known for good street manners (including packed snow) and excellent offroad traction. Some say the sidewalls puncture easy in rocks. With 4.75" BS rims, 10.5" wide tires will stick past the stock fenders by ~1".
 
Save your money on the battery upgrade unless the rig you are buying has a known bad battery. And why Optima yellow top?

I’m in the “steel wheels suck” camp and I’d rather have a set of nice stock aluminum wheels at this point in my life.

I would skip the LED headlights.

I’d pass on the brake upgrade for small tires. I sure would not do WJ.

Skipping any of those would get you a steering linkage upgrade, ZJ or maybe Currie.

Skipping all would also get you a winch.
 
I would do shackle relocation if that’s not part of your suspension plan or kit.

And I would look at filthy addictions Offroad for an option of bumper/tire carrier.

And I had the wildpeak atw3 tires in the past and I loved them.
 
Optima yellow because I've run that on my other cars in the past and it's been reliable.

Why do you think steel wheels suck?

I don't mind skipping the brake upgrade if unnecessary, but why not WJ?
 
Cool, I'll look into the shackle relocation.

Any idea what prices I should expect from FAO? I see that it's just a facebook page.
 
WJ front brake install is somewhat involved, and I'm not sure there is any substantial benefit with 31" tires. My XJ on 31" tires is no sports car when stopping, but it does good enough. On the road, I just have to leave a little more gap to the car in front of me than I do in my road-only cars. Just make sure the stock brakes are in good condition with good pads and shoes. Then spend the saved money on diffs.
 
Having done rock crawling for decades, I have seen too many aluminum rims broken on the trail. Now, having said that, most people on here are not pushing things that hard, but it can happen on a normal trail with an errant rock pushing in on the side of the tire.

BFT AT KO series tires actually wrap around the edge of the rim and help prevent this type of damage as well as cut down on popping a bead.
 
Cool, I'll look into the shackle relocation.

Any idea what prices I should expect from FAO? I see that it's just a facebook page.

[email protected] or their Instagram page is how to contact them. Not sure on prices.

And I’ve done the wj swap and I’ve had stock style steering and brakes on 33’s. And to me the stock is just fine for most situations and with a zj tie rod it’s a $50 investment in the steering vs about $2000 for the wj swap(if you buy everything new, swap components, bigger rims to fit the stuff, different tires for the different rims, alignment, and probably a shop to install it all)
My main benefit from the wj swap isn’t the brakes but the chevy 1ton steering ends and tighter steering when I’m running faster in the dirt or hit potholes at 65-70mph
 
Having done rock crawling for decades, I have seen too many aluminum rims broken on the trail.

Words of wisdom.

And if you happen to live where it gets cold, aluminum seems to lose air faster than steel.
 
I couldn't open the list. I am guessing a 3.5 lift, 31's, headlight upgrade, brake upgrade, steering upgrade. Not a whole lot of knowledge on Overland stuff though.
For headlights and less $$, I'd look at Autopals H4 and a wiring harness upgrade. I did run Autopals for a few years. No real issues. I'd say twice the stock output. Then twice that with wiring harness upgrade.
Brakes, yeas I have WJ's on mine. With Chevy 1-ton cross over. Yes, probably $1600 to $2000. So, not cheap. I'd try a set of Black Magic pads first.
I might try an OTK trackbar. Just in case you want to go to cross over steering in the future. Also, I only found one post with someone using OTK with stock or Y link steering. Said it was more stable.
https://offroadonly.com/product-category/u-turn/
Discussed some months back. No experience with them.
 
Optima yellow because I've run that on my other cars in the past and it's been reliable.

Why do you think steel wheels suck?

I don't mind skipping the brake upgrade if unnecessary, but why not WJ?

If you are on a budget, and there are no issues with the installed battery, why throw away $300 on a new one?

Steel wheels: marginally heavier (US Wheel generic steel vs American Racing Baja); I prefer the look of aluminum; it is my opinion that what might break an aluminum wheel will damage the steel beyond use anyway and a steel whee will yield and get wobbly where an aluminum won’t.

WJ brake upgrade, as noted above, there’s too much that goes into it to be worth it for 3” and 31s. The low steer arms are lower than XJ, track bar bracket modifications required for high steer, and you may be pushed into 16” wheels (if you were not planning on that anyway).
 
Instead of the Optima battery, if your present battery is fairly new and good, look into upgrading the battery cables.
Also, I think you asked in another thread if the WJ BB's prevented DW. No. Trust me I know. I might look into 'the Cure' from Ruff Stuff, if you keep the 'Y' link. It cheap. I don't think it prevents DW, but helps with the side to side lane change from what I can gather. I haven't used one though.
I also think you mentioned brake rotors. Blaine of Black Magic sells Centric brand to use with his pads. Though he does not sell them for the WJ's. He gets to many returns for what ever reason, only on the WJ rotors. I used NAPA Reactive and Active pads this last time. They seem OK. I did get some brake fade going down a mountain though. I was behind 3 logging or stone trucks. They were putting along. I was constantly on the brakes. They did afford for me to pass. This was a twisty streach of road.
 
Instead of the Optima battery, if your present battery is fairly new and good, look into upgrading the battery cables.
Also, I think you asked in another thread if the WJ BB's prevented DW. No. Trust me I know. I might look into 'the Cure' from Ruff Stuff, if you keep the 'Y' link. It cheap. I don't think it prevents DW, but helps with the side to side lane change from what I can gather. I haven't used one though.
I also think you mentioned brake rotors. Blaine of Black Magic sells Centric brand to use with his pads. Though he does not sell them for the WJ's. He gets to many returns for what ever reason, only on the WJ rotors. I used NAPA Reactive and Active pads this last time. They seem OK. I did get some brake fade going down a mountain though. I was behind 3 logging or stone trucks. They were putting along. I was constantly on the brakes. They did afford for me to pass. This was a twisty streach of road.

What is DW?
 
Instead of the Optima battery, if your present battery is fairly new and good, look into upgrading the battery cables.
Also, I think you asked in another thread if the WJ BB's prevented DW. No. Trust me I know. I might look into 'the Cure' from Ruff Stuff, if you keep the 'Y' link. It cheap. I don't think it prevents DW, but helps with the side to side lane change from what I can gather. I haven't used one though.
I also think you mentioned brake rotors. Blaine of Black Magic sells Centric brand to use with his pads. Though he does not sell them for the WJ's. He gets to many returns for what ever reason, only on the WJ rotors. I used NAPA Reactive and Active pads this last time. They seem OK. I did get some brake fade going down a mountain though. I was behind 3 logging or stone trucks. They were putting along. I was constantly on the brakes. They did afford for me to pass. This was a twisty streach of road.

I've never asked about WJ BB's before but that's good to know. I'll probably just stick to the black magic set for now then. You think it's worth converting the rears to discs as well?
 
Unless this is a wish list, to refer to over a period of years, imho, it's too much, too soon - or a determination to spend money for the sake of it.

e.g, what's been said about the battery (& by all accounts Optima are rubbish now) applies to the exhaust &, to an extent, wheels & tyres.

$1,000 for a roof rack - are you serious? On a vehicle that has something already in place. Suggest you wait 'til you ever find a use for it - & then if it won't serve the purpose.

I'd just drive it around for a year, doing routine maintenance as required incorporating sensible upgrades at the time, like the brakes when it needs pads. After that you will have a much better idea of what you'd like to change, as opposed to a textbook build of what, undoubtedly, would be a very nice, & capable, XJ.


On that subject, XJ brakes are not the best, especially with anything other than street tyres, & WJ ones are vastly superior; I ran one for 6 months (alongside an XJ) & the better brakes were obvious the 1st time my foot got near the pedal - on the other hand, I never noticed any difference in the steering but I can only speak as I found.
 
It depends on what type of wheeling/overlanding that you want to do but here are my suggestions.

My thought process in putting together this list is to get done quick and cheap so you can get out there and enjoy it while you figure out (1) if you want to continue doing it, and (2) figure eout what other upgrades you actually need or want.


-Maintenance #1. If you break down out there, the rest of the stuff is worthless.
-HAM license class (and buy a HAM radio, handheld is fine and allows you to hike out if needed)
-Stock rims to save money and 235/75 R15 tires
-ZJ Drag link
-Steel Steering box spacer
-d30 reinforcement https://www.trailforged.com/product/tj-lj-mj-xj-and-zj-front-axle-bracket-reinforcement-kit/
-Front and rear tow points (Rear hitch works) (if you wheel alone, bumper and winch suggested)
-Recovery kit (Shackles, straps without metal ends, tree saver, gloves, etc)
-Roof Mounted Cargo box for all the lighter stuff (clothes etc), Keep the heavy stuff in the “trunk” to keep it low (Spare parts, tools, cooking stuff, food, etc)
-Junkyard S-10 bastard leaf pack to help with the sag of all the weight
-Budget boost 1”-2” spacers for up front to level the rig
-Jeepcables battery cable upgrade
-K-Suspension (or DIY) E-fan switch override
-Putco Headlight harness
-Amazon LED Trucklight lookalikes ($100)
-Raybestos Brake pads
-Gojeep gas tank mod http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoFuelTank.htm
or ZJ Gas tank (or combo and get 25gallons) https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1131307


If you plan to do more rocky trails, skidplates for t-case and gas tank are suggested; stock skids would even work. I would also advise sliders of some sort, JCR are a bit pricy for everything they sell.
If you do an LED Bar, don’t put it on the roof. Bumper mount is much better. Roof has a ton of wind noise on the road and it reflects off the hood and blinds you.
 
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It depends on what type of wheeling/overlanding that you want to do but here are my suggestions.

My thought process in putting together this list is to get done quick and cheap so you can get out there and enjoy it while you figure out (1) if you want to continue doing it, and (2) figure eout what other upgrades you actually need or want.


-Maintenance #1. If you break down out there, the rest of the stuff is worthless.
-HAM license class (and buy a HAM radio, handheld is fine and allows you to hike out if needed)
-Stock rims to save money and 235/75 R15 tires
-ZJ Drag link
-Front and rear tow points (Rear hitch works) (if you wheel alone, bumper and winch suggested)
-Recovery kit (Shackles, straps without metal ends, tree saver, gloves, etc)
-Roof Mounted Cargo box for all the lighter stuff (clothes etc), Keep the heavy stuff in the “trunk” to keep it low (Spare parts, tools, cooking stuff, food, etc)
-Junkyard S-10 bastard leaf pack to help with the sag of all the weight
-Budget boost 1”-2” spacers for up front to level the rig
-Jeepcables battery cable upgrade
-K-Suspension (or DIY) E-fan switch override
-Putco Headlight harness
-Amazon LED Trucklight lookalikes ($100)
-Raybestos Brake pads
-Gojeep gas tank mod http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoFuelTank.htm
or ZJ Gas tank (or combo and get 25gallons) https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1131307


If you plan to do more rocky trails, skidplates for t-case and gas tank are suggested; stock would even work. I would also advise sliders of some sort, JCR are a bit pricy for everything they sell.
If you do an LED Bar, don’t put it on the roof. Bumper mount is much better. Roof has a ton of wind noise on the road and it reflects off the hood and blinds you.

There is good advice!
 
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