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Gratuitous Lack Of Moderation - A little stroker build

The Rollmaster timing sets Russ uses are adjustable 9 ways (+8* and -8* in 2* increments).

Russ installed this one strait up (there is 4* of advance built in the cam). he marked the 0* marks at the crank and alignment with a marker before installation to avoid mistakes.

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Russ has his own cam button bolts made with a nylon button in them. Its more precise than the factory push spring, but allows aftermarket timing sets unlike they late model retainer fork.

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To use them you need a late model timing cover, or to machine the nipple off of an earlier one. Needs to look like this:

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And not this:

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Bolt the cover down:

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And then check endplay on the cam. It needs to just barely move.

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I didn't get pictures of it but he ended up sanding just a couple of thousands off the end of the button to get it how he wants it.

Once that was done he honed a couple thousands off the inside of the harmonic balancer to make it easier to R&R.

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I realize as i look at pictures that I skipped the girdle install. Sorry this is out of order.

Dropped the girdle on and ran it down hand tight.

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You'll see that Russ ground it to clear the rods.

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Still just a little too tight.

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So we add a handful of hardened .060 washers.

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Looks good now

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Red locktite on the nuts and run them home.
 
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Now we drop a couple of pushrods in and do some fitment testing. We're starting with 9.550 length .080 wall 5/16 pushrods from Manley.

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And re-using the Harland Sharp 1.6 ratio adjustable roller rockers off of 4643.

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Russ installs the hardware with what he calls 'peanut butter' which is a compound specifically to avoid galling the aluminium threads on the head.

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It comes from Detroit Diesel.

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During installation Russ puts a towel over the pushrod holes to help prevent dropped hardware from getting into the motor.

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I start lacking some photos here, but the pushrods were way too short. Next we tried some 9.600 5/16 .080 wall pushrods from Comp, those too were a bit too short.

Just to see, we tried Russ's 1.65 ratio fixed roller rockers that Harland custom makes for him. Notice the dovetail on the pushrod end, Russ had them change the profile so that they fit under a stock valve cover..

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Pushrods are still a little short, so Russ got his adjustable pushrod out to take some measurements.

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And again with the adjustable rockers:

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Just to see we measure with stock rockers.


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In each case the motor really wants 9.650" pushrods, which I seem to remember we had to use on 4643 as well with the high energy lifters and the roller rockers. The ones that came out of that motor are around here somewhere, but we don't know exactly where they are so I just ordered up a new set - therefor, we aren't finishing today. I have a set of Comp Cam's 9.650" 3/8 .135" wall push rods on their way from Summit Racing.
 
That's about as far as we've gotten for today, but he's some head porn for you until the new push rods arrive.

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Russ and I talked about that. When we're done he's going to write it up as both a complete build and a kit at retail price and we'll see what this bitch would really have cost.

That's before we get into the bolt on's too, which are piling up in my garage waiting for install time - but those will go in the unicorn thread.
 
- So have you figured out a decent oil cap for that cover? Mine came with a rubber plug which I hate but haven't found a better option yet.

- On the Harmonic Balancer, he is taking a bit of the OD of the snout?

- Timing, 4 degree plus is just the base line and the computer can add more correct? I know my Painless setup I had to set the timing at +12 deg and sync the computer to it, haven't thought to look at what timing the computer seems to run with but the engine rips for a stock motor.

-Hard to see on the girdle but looks like there isn't much material left between the supports or is that just a bad picture angle?

Great pics, thanks.
 
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Anything on how you and Russ center the timing cover relative to the crank/harmonic balancer?
 
It's funny you ask that, russ made a tool just for that. Basically the snout of a harmonic balancer honed to a slip fit and cut off, with a 1/2" drive socket welded to the end so it can also be used to turn engines over and

It's currently at stinkyfab as I had Dallas plate it for him but I'll get a picture of it
 
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Cool.

That is essentially the same thing I have made, except rather than weld a socket to the end of it I made a plate that bolts on using the three holes for the puller (I left enough of the center spider for that purpose). The plate has a 1/2" square hole in the center of it.
 

Cool.

The zinc bath is a nice touch.

I find it helpful to put a finish on my homemade tools. Among other things it helps me remember that this particular hunk of whatever actually has a purpose and shouldn't be used as scrap to fabricobble whatever project happens to be at hand.
 
I'm curious why you honed out the harmonic balancer. Isn't it a light press fit for a reason?

Everything else looks great.
 
Its not light enough, I guess. I dunno, I'll ask Russ if there's any reason beyond making it easier to deal with.
 
I think at this point you're going for one of the most expensive 4.0L's ever built.

Looks awesome though!

I've been thinking about this post today.

Refer back to this post and you'll recall that I bought project unicorn specifically to build this motor for it.

With that in mind, was there anywhere to go but full retard? :) It would be an injustice to myself and my car to do anything else.
 
I've been thinking about this post today.

Refer back to this post and you'll recall that I bought project unicorn specifically to build this motor for it.

With that in mind, was there anywhere to go but full retard? :) It would be an injustice to myself and my car to do anything else.

WHOA !!!



Did you cal your cherokee a car ??

Pretty sure the emissions plate on the firewall says 'truck' !



:roflmao:
 
I thought we flushed this out in the 4643 thread.

You can't have a racecar without a car.
 
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