• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Rolls in gear

JMO1990renix

NAXJA Forum User
Location
SoCal
Hello to all. Thank you all in advance

I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee xj 4.0 automatic transmission

I recently installed an sye kit. I installed the kit with the transfer case out of the vehicle. Once I installed the transfer case back into the vehicle I started it up and put it in gear and it wouldn’t move. When I went to put it in park it made a grinding noise before going into park. I got underneath with someone in the cab shifting the transfer case through each gear. Grabbing the drive shafts during the process making sure it was going into each gear.


Can anyone tell me what is going on?

Initially I though it was the shift fork in the transfer case but before I disassemble it I wanted to get some insight. It is shifting into 4wd.
 
If the transfer case is grinding, it is not fully engaged. Disconnect the 4x4 floor shift mechanism and operate the range lever by hand from underneath. You may need a prybar. 2wd is forward/up, 4-Lo is rearward/down. Confirm the t-case will engage and drive in each operating mode.

If it functions correctly in all modes, adjust the 4x4 shifter.

.
standard.jpg
 
The transmission grinds only when putting it in park. I’ve cycled the shift left on the transfer case through all gears and the transfer case is functioning properly. But when I get in the car and start it and put it in gear the Jeep won’t move. Everything I’ve read points toward fluid level in the transmission. When I pulled the transfer case I did loose some fluid out the back of the transmission. But I have also put some back in. I don’t want to over fill. I let it run for thirty minutes cycling it through the gears couldn’t get an accurate reading in the dipstick. Is it possible that the shift solenoid is clogged? I’m at a loss.
 
It's likely internal to the tcase. The trans grinds going into park because it is disconnected from the rest of the drivetrain and you can not stop the internals from spinning by stopping the jeep as usual. Same reason the jeep won't move in gear. The tcase is essentially stuck in neutral.
 
Fill the transmission to proper level with Dexron-III/Mercon trans fluid.

The transmission grinds only when putting it in park. I’ve cycled the shift left on the transfer case through all gears and the transfer case is functioning properly. But when I get in the car and start it and put it in gear the Jeep won’t move. ............

The symptoms described are most commonly associated with misadjustment of the transfer case shift mechanism.
 
Thank you all for the help. I read a lot of posts before posting. I adjusted the transfer case link by loading the bolt and switching it into 2wd then tightening the bolt. So I don’t think it’s is A linkage issues. When I pulled the transfer case I did loose a little fluid. That’s what led me to believe it was fluid related. But I added fluid and got nothing. Could it be shift solenoid? Or something clogged? I am using Castrol dex 3
 
Fill the transmission to proper level with Dexron-III/Mercon trans fluid.



The symptoms described are most commonly associated with misadjustment of the transfer case shift mechanism.

Maybe the driveshaft is too short?
 
Remove the shift linkage from the arm on the tcase. Using a pry bar or hammer, move the arm to the far forward position and test again. If it still grinds going back into park the problem is within the tcase
 
Did you check that the TC shift rail was the correct length ? IIRC the rail may hit the new SYE shaft housing on some year OTCs.
 
Did you check that the TC shift rail was the correct length ? IIRC the rail may hit the new SYE shaft housing on some year OTCs.

Good point, and this would likely be proven or disproven by manually engaging all the modes of operation by operating the range lever with the shift mechanism disconnected.
 
I’ve disconnected the linkage and shifted it manually though all the gears. 2wd and spin the driveshaft by and car moves. 4wd spin the frint driveshaft by hand and it moves the Jeep. I did cut 1” off the rail to fit the sye case. I did have to delete the vacuum lines because the sye case doesn’t use them. I just unplugged the battery and touched the cable together and reconnect and no change. I’m really at a loss. I’m going to eat lunch then go pull about the transfer case.
 
I’ve disconnected the linkage and shifted it manually though all the gears. 2wd and spin the driveshaft by and car moves. 4wd spin the frint driveshaft by hand and it moves the Jeep. I did cut 1” off the rail to fit the sye case. I did have to delete the vacuum lines because the sye case doesn’t use them. I just unplugged the battery and touched the cable together and reconnect and no change. I’m really at a loss. I’m going to eat lunch then go pull about the transfer case.

Do you think it would be transfer case internal issues if the front drives still engages in 4wd?
I think you should have already tested the inputs and outputs before installing the T-Case. At this point, disconnect the rear driveshaft, does the output spin freely with the engine off and transmission in park?
 
I did test prior to installation. I will take the drive shaft off after work and see if it moves in park. One thing i left out was I had the head surfaced and installed it at the same time. Initially I was leaning towards electrical. Now I’m leaning towards trans oil/filter
 
I can push the Jeep back and forth in park. Does that mean there is No need to disconnect the drive shaft? Will that not give you the information you need to make a determination?
 
How far will it roll back and forth?

I can put my Jeep in park, push the tire with my big, fat, foot, and get the thing to rock back and forth. That is how I inspect the U-Joints.
 
From everything you've said so far, I would say you have a bad "parking pawl".
 
Back
Top