• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Genright XJ Extended Range Gas Tank install

iluv83vettes

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Houston
Let me start by saying that this is my first write-up. Usually I start out doing something to the Jeep wanting to do a write-up on it but get caught up in the moment and stop taking pictures as soon as the work starts. This time, my brother-in-law was there to slow me down and make sure we kept taking pictures. I am not a professional photographer and I definitely do not have a professional camera. Some of my pictures are dark and some aren't completely in focus, but I did the best I could in the photo department.

If you don't care about the back story, skip to the next post.

Vehicle: 1999 Limited 4.0, AW4, NP242w/Tom Woods HD SYE, 8.25 w/ ZJ Discs, OME/DPG/JKS 3.5" lift, stock bumpers (for now), OEM hitch

Story: Back in September, I had a short and fried my fuel pump. I didn't have time to replace it myself and really didn't like the idea of dropping a completely full fuel tank, so I took my XJ to a shop and had them "fix" it. They allowed me to bring my own fuel pump, which was nice, and did the work for me. When I picked it up the mechanic told me they weren't able to get the threads of the new fuel pump to seal up (more on that later) with the plastic tank and that this is a common problem. He told me to just not fill it up all the way and I would be fine. I didn't really like the idea of this and immediately started looking for a new tank to put in. That's when I was surprised. For a 96 and earlier XJ you can pick up a tank nearly everywhere including amazon, but for the 97-01 you can only get them from a dealer and mine quoted me at ~$950 plus tax. I had found this tank when I bought this XJ back in 2012 and at that point knew I was going to get it. For those that think this is an expensive tank (it is I know), think of it like this ... Tank skid ~$250-$300, fuel cans to hold 10 extra gallons ~$200-$400. I started saving and when I finally had enough for it, I saw the post from Don at 4WD Hardware about the 10% off and gift card, I sent him an email to call me and then ordered it. (I don't see it on their site anymore)

On to the install ...
 
Last edited:
These directions are partly from Genright and partly from me.

Step 1:Blow off or spray off the dirt and dust under your vehicle (If you have ever done anything under yours after going offroad, you know this is a must.)

Step 2:Gather tools for the job (Genright lists the tools needed, some of mine were a little different)

Step 3:Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery

Step 4:Remove the gas cap to relieve any pressure in the tank

If you need pictures of any of the above steps, you probably shouldn't be doing this job. Genright actually puts a warning in the instructions that reads "If yo uare not 100% confident in your ability to properly install this product please take it to a professional automotive repair shop"

Step 5:Remove the 2 hose clamps holding the filler hoses to the tank at the tank. Once the filler and vent hoses are disconnected, be careful to keep dirt out of the tank and gas in the tank.



Step 6:We recomment you release the main fuel line pressure. Locate the release valve on the fuel rail of the EFI under the hood. This is done by holding a rag over the valve with one hand, then pressing down the Schrader valve to release the pressure from the fuel system. Only a small amount will come out of the valve, but it is enough that you will need a rag. (I was able to soak up all the fuel with 3 blue disposable shop towels)
 
Step 7: Un-clip the main fuel line from the fuel pump module (located on the front side of the tank near the rear axle.) This is done by pressing down the clip on each side and gently pulling the two halves apart. Have a rag ready to catch a small amount of fuel that may run out. (There was more fuel in the lines than I thought there would be so make sure you are out of the way. Also make sure you are at least wearing safety glasses/goggles or even a face shield typically used for grinding metal)

Step 8: Next CAREFULLY un-clip the smaller vent line from the top of the tank.



Step 7 is on the left and you can see the clips (grey) and step 8 is on the right.
 
Step 9: Disconnect the electrical connection. This is done by sliding (not removing) the red safety clip out about 1/4" then press the release on one side to the connector and disconnect the 2 halves of the plug to the fuel pump inside the gas tank.



You can see the red safety clip in the picture next to the fuel lines

Step 10: Place a floor jack under the stock tank/skid plate of the Jeep to support the tank during removal. Sometimes it helps to place a piece of wood on the jack to better balance the tank on the jack. (I didn't have any wood that would work for this, but I had less than 1/8 tank so it was easy to get the tank down.)



This picture was obviously taken after I had undone the bolts to release the straps holding the tank up.
 
Things that I had to do that weren't in the directions:

Remove the hitch that was installed on my Jeep. This was necessary for two reasons: 1. The Genright tank bolts up where the hitch bolts up (I guess you could install the hitch under the tank and bolt through both of them, but I plan on getting a JCR rear bumper soon with a hitch) and 2. I couldn't get to the hose clamps for the filler neck from step 5 with the hitch installed.

In order to do this, I had to loosen the leaf spring to shackle bolts to where the bolts didn't stick out past the nuts.





Second picture is from underneath. I had already removed some of the bolts holding the hitch at this point.



Having a helper is great (No I didn't hold it there with all the bolts off while my brother-in-law got the camera, it still had a couple bolts holding it.



With the hitch removed, I could easily access the filler neck hose clamps.

I actually removed both filler neck hoses completely which required removing the little shield piece (there is lots of dirt that likes hiding in there) with the intention of replacing them, but none of the parts houses had them on hand. That is something on my "soon to do" list.
 
Last edited:
At some point you need to install the fuel pump into the new tank. I opted to get a new fuel pump assembly after seeing the old one I took out.



Its had to see in this picture, but the fuel pump wasn't screwed on at all :gonnablow . No wonder the shop "couldn't get it to seal". It looked like they just threw the pump in there and didn't even try. The rubber seal was sloshing around in the tank and the filter screen for the pump and been knocked off and was sitting on the bottom of the tank as well. In one hand I was mad, but in the other I was happy that I knew it was getting replaced and done right. Honestly I'm surprised that I didn't have any problems with water getting into the tank or dirt in the fuel.

Also not the the passenger side is lowered first to ensure that you don't spill fuel out of the filler necks.

Back to lowering the tank.

Step 11: With a 1/2" socket on an extension, remove the nuts from the front edge of the stock skid plate. Then the rear edge of the skid plate to the frame. (I didn't have a skid plate and my tank was held up by straps with nuts on the front.)







The heat shield for the tank doesn't need or have a way to easily be reused, so I didn't.

Step 12: Slowly lower one side of the tank down. Be sure ALL fuel lines/wires are disconnected;you do not want them to break! Note: we have plugged the fuel filler hoses so they do not dump fuel out. (look at the above pictures)
 
Step 13: Next remove & transfer the factory Jeep fuel pump and sending unit. It is held in place by a large plastic ring. We have provided you a special tool to make removal easier. Remove the plastic ring and carefully lift out the fuel pump assembly, making sure not to damage the sending unit (a wire and float which hangs off the side). Set the fuel module aside on a clean rag. (As I said, I was using a new fuel pump so I wasn't really concerned with this step.)

Step 14: Remove the large round black seal under the top lip of the fuel pump assembly. To install the pump you will first place the large round rubber gasket in the opening. We recommend a little grease on the mating part of the fuel pump assembly. MAKING SURE the arrow on the top part of the fuel pump points straight forward, SLOWLY lower the pump into the gasket until seated. Depending on how flexible your rubber gasket is, it make take a few tries. when you think you have it in, double check to make sure the seal looks even all the way around the lip on the fuel pump assembly. Now thread on the plastic ring and snug tight (by hand) with the ring tool we provided.







I used white lithium grease as recommended by my parts store.



Make sure not to damage the sending unit or screen filter while installing



Not seated yet



Fully seated with the arrow pointing straight to the front.



Starting and tightening "by hand(s)"



Using the fancy tool to snug it up.
 
Step 15: Next take a look at the position of the gas filler hoses on the stock tank and move them over to the new gas tank in a similar position



Main fuel line



Fully connected



Vent line



Fully connected
 
Step 16: Then, with the new tank fully assembled, raise up the new skid plate assembly into the Jeep with a jack.

(I don't have pictures of the rest of the install, but it is pretty self explanatory)

Note: Be sure to guide the filler and vent fittings up into the opening on the body. you might need to tilt the tank and skid slightly to allow the front mount to clear everything.

Step 17: Continue to lift the tank assembly to the frame mount bolts. Make sure the hoses and wires are routed out to the front edge to make access easy once the tank is in place to reconnect the fuel lines and electrical. Be careful that you don't pinch the 2 hoses or connector while lifting it.

Step 18: Loosely install the bolts up into the skid plate. Slide the skid plate back as far as you'd like it and tighten these bolts to the factory spec.

Step 19: Use zip ties provided to secure any loose hoses or electrical wires on the underside.

Step 20: Re-attach the filler and vent hoses at the tank. (There is a nice cut-out in the tank for this and I used new hose clamps)



Step 21: Re-install the filler to the bezel (no you didn't miss anything, there wasn't anything mentioned about removing the filler or the bezel.)

Step 22: Re-install the filler bezel to the body and put the gas cap back on.

Step 23/24: Transfer fuel/fill up your new tank and check to make sure that there are no leaks in the filler neck.

Step 25: After you are confident the tank is secure and the fuel lines are re-connected, you will need to turn the ignition key to the "ON" position a few times (for about 10 seconds each time) before the vehicle will start and run. CHECK for leaks during this step before starting the engine, as the pump will be pressurizing the system.

NOTE:We recommend replacing the in-line fuel filter a few days after installing the new gas tank to clear the line and remove any dirt or debris that may have fallen in the new tank during installation.

The included installation instructions are obviously generic and have some parts ^ that don't apply to the XJ.
 
Last edited:
Gripes:



My original nut strip was rusty and I couldn't get some of the bolts to thread all the way through. I have since ordered the JCR nutstrip to solve this problem ... which leads me to ... holes needing to be drilled in the skid. Here are some pictures to show.



No holes for the bolts holding the filler neck shield.



Or for the second bolt holding the exhaust up.



No hole in the frame rail to thread a nut into for this hole (driver side middle).



or this one (driver side front)



or these holes on the passenger side.
 
More gripes:



Here you can see the bolt partly threaded in due to the rusty nutstrip. The back two most holes used for the hitch aren't used.



I need to figure out a way to slightly change the routing of my exhaust.



My plans now:

When the nutstrip comes in, I will drop the tank again and drill holes in the skid for all the nuts as well as the filler neck shield bolts. Also change up the exhaust.

Overall I am happy and would give this a 4 out of 5 only missing the 5 because of the above gripes. If I knew these before hand I would have drilled the holes before I installed it the first time and would only need to fix the exhaust.
 
Too slow to edit first post with overall pics of new tank.





Baffles in tank.





Slot for attaching filler necks

Hit me up with any questions or pictures you want.
 
Very nice. Did not know about this one. I do know that Transfer-flow makes a 30-gal tank for around the same price as their stock replacement XJ tank.
 
Looks great. So now she holds 30 gallons? Have you filled it yet? And if I can pry what do you have in the whole project?

Thanks
Ron

It's hard to say for sure if it holds a full 30 gallons. It definitely holds quite a bit more than the stock tank. I put some fuel in it from gas cans (about 7 gallons) then went to the station and put 10 gallons in it, then drove about 50 miles and put another I think 17 gallons in it to fill it up all the way.

When the tank is full, the gas gauge will read full until you are down to about 20ish gallons then the gauge works like stock to empty.

I got the tank from 4wd but I don't see it on their site anymore. With rebates and such it was a good deal less than what is listed on the genright site. Other than the tank, I got a new fuel pump ~$200 from Oreilly's, some more white lithium grease anti-seize and hose clamps ~$20, and now the JCR nutstrips ~$50. I couldn't find a price for new filler hoses, but I do plan on getting some soon.
 
Very nice. Did not know about this one. I do know that Transfer-flow makes a 30-gal tank for around the same price as their stock replacement XJ tank.

I didn't know Transfer Flow made one. I honestly don't remember when I first saw this one, but I bookmarked it that day.
 
To anyone who has ever done a write-up: Thank you because I never realized how long it took to put everything together.
 
$1,000 for a gas tank. Jeeze.

It is nice, and id love to have 30gal in tank. But for less than $150 i can carry two 5gal gerry cans.

Or for about $200 i can carry two 4gal rotopax containers.

Both of those options are not nearly as cool as the genright gas tank.
 
Back
Top