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Modernizing the XJ

This thread immediately came to mind this evening, as Varmint #1 fired up the '02 Suburban and I saw the warning light come on: "Service 4WD".

Yippee.

No 4wd to be had until I fix something.

Innerweb suggests it is a simple matter of replacing the switch module in the dash.

Any way you slice it the modern electronic doo-dads are nowhere near as reliable as a good old fashioned manual lever.
 
This thread immediately came to mind this evening, as Varmint #1 fired up the '02 Suburban and I saw the warning light come on: "Service 4WD".

Yippee.

No 4wd to be had until I fix something.

Innerweb suggests it is a simple matter of replacing the switch module in the dash.

Any way you slice it the modern electronic doo-dads are nowhere near as reliable as a good old fashioned manual lever.
This.... So true! Nothing more aggravating than the "newer reliable car" failing and having to get in the ole xj that just works. Bahahahaha

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Not meaning that specifically towards you anak. No disrespect implied what's so ever.

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None even considered.

I am a big fan of simple, mechanical systems.

My '96 XJ and my '95 Cummins are the two most reliable vehicles I own.

The more features a vehicle has the more failure modes it has.

I don't begrudge anyone else their new vehicles with all their gadgetry. Just so long as no one expects me to own one too.
 
None even considered.

I am a big fan of simple, mechanical systems.

My '96 XJ and my '95 Cummins are the two most reliable vehicles I own.

The more features a vehicle has the more failure modes it has.

I don't begrudge anyone else their new vehicles with all their gadgetry. Just so long as no one expects me to own one too.

my most reliable is my 61 Bug, easy to push starts, no fancy dancy electronics, sure I installed a pertronix electric ignition, but I keep a set of points in the glove box just incase. It is luxuriously updated to a 12 volt electric system however, and I modernized the safety systems with lap seat belts front and rear and a high mount brake light! It also sports sheep skin front seat covers (getting a little ragged now, I put the covers on probably 35 years ago.) It also has an AM FM cassette stereo, but only one speaker as stock It now sports a massive 1600 motor from a 73 Bug verses the stock 1200 motor, 40 HP verses about 55HP, thats over a 25 % increase, and with the final drive ratio of the early Bugs, combined with the later power house motor, she is quick off the line for a Bug!

Now my 66 Bug is bone stock, still 6 volts, still points ignition. It had front seat belts standard, but no rear belts, and only has an AM radio. 1300 cc and maybe 44 HP, she is more sedate, not a power house by anymeans she has a sunroof, hand cranked of course.


Old cars Rule!
I used to wheel the 61 Bug 40 years ago, took me to many a remote trail head for backpacking I pull up in that Bug after crossing a creek, and blundering over rocks to find nothing but 4x4 trucks and jeeps at the trail head, Amazing reliable vehicles them old Bug are. never let me down That Bug was also the family car.
 
I'll be starting work on the XJ again soon once we close on a house. Have a few things lined up so far - seat heaters, double din, rear camera, remove a leaf or two out of existing leaves, and rebuild a few joints up front. The XJ already has bedliner under the carpet, but looking at adding sound deadening there and under the headliner.
 
a57ccb9e7d7033a1512a4fdf9d3edd0f.jpg

Just made this WJ overland steering wheel upgrade - makes a difference. Cc works, airbag compatible. I’m going to wire up the audio controls when I mod a 99-01 WJ clock spring down the track


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Sometimes the switch. And sometimes the encoder motor on the tcase. Both easy to replace.
This thread immediately came to mind this evening, as Varmint #1 fired up the '02 Suburban and I saw the warning light come on: "Service 4WD".

Yippee.

No 4wd to be had until I fix something.

Innerweb suggests it is a simple matter of replacing the switch module in the dash.

Any way you slice it the modern electronic doo-dads are nowhere near as reliable as a good old fashioned manual lever.
 
I’m speaking from experience working on all of these the last 10 years for a job.
I don’t want to upset anybody, but I have to say I would never recommend the WJ.
Awful electrical/electronics, HVAC, water leaks. The 4.7 is such a terrible engine I don’t have words. The many, many that we replaced had to almost always get a reman engine because there weren’t any running used engines available. Lots of trans failures.
I suppose a zero option 4.0 would be the best of a bad bunch.
 
This thread immediately came to mind this evening, as Varmint #1 fired up the '02 Suburban and I saw the warning light come on: "Service 4WD".

Yippee.

No 4wd to be had until I fix something.

Innerweb suggests it is a simple matter of replacing the switch module in the dash.

Any way you slice it the modern electronic doo-dads are nowhere near as reliable as a good old fashioned manual lever.


Good chance it’s the encoder motor on the transfer case. Have the codes pulled before throwing parts at it.
 
Good chance it’s the encoder motor on the transfer case. Have the codes pulled before throwing parts at it.

It sure would be nice if the codes were useful.

Code is U1026--Loss of communication with automatic traction control

That leaves all sorts of variables.

Tried the simple part, the switch. No joy.

Encoder motor now on order for the T-case.

If that doesn't fix it I will then be tracking down chassis grounds or other wiring harness gremlins. I so much prefer the simple lever in my XJ.

ETA: Found it.

There is a TSB that nails it:

4WD Inoperative DTC U1026 ATC Fuse Open on Light Duty Trucks, Utilities with NVG 236/246 T/case - keywords cold electrical fuse hi4 inoperative lamp light no switch wire #PIP3349 - (03/01/2005)

Models:



The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in the PI.
Condition/Concern:

Four wheel drive inoperative and the 4WD switch light will not illuminate. DTC U1026 will set as a current code. During cold ambient temperatures, the 20 amp ATC fuse for circuit 1640 will go open when shifted into hi4 or auto mode.
Possible cause is that the current draw of the encoder motor exceeds 20 amps when shifting into hi4 or auto mode during cold ambient temperatures.
Recommendation/Instructions:

Refer to the applicable year and model service manual or eSI transfer case wiring schematic.
<LI type=1>Replace the 20 amp ATC / T-case fuse with a 25 amp fuse.Replace circuit 1640 (orange wire), 0.8 mm2 (18 gauge) wire with an orange wire with a specification of a 1.0 mm2 (16 gauge) wire.Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
Models:

(99-02 Chevrolet Silverado) and (98-02 Chevrolet Tahoe) and (98-02 Chevrolet Suburban) and (98-02 Chevrolet Blazer) and (98-02 GMC Sierra) and (98-02 GMC Yukon) and (00-02 GMC Yukon XL) and (98-02 GMC Jimmy) and (99-02 GMC Envoy) and (99-02 Cadillac Escalade)

Put in a 25 amp fuse and everything works just fine again.

I am not sure I really like that solution though. The proper fix would be to also change the orange wire from 18 ga to 16 ga. But I can't imagine what it would take to replace that wire from wherever it starts to wherever it ends. I think it makes more sense to put in a new encoder that should theoretically not be drawing more amps than intended.

I just have to love the failure mode. 4wd won't work if it is cold. Brilliant. You would have thought they would have learned their lesson from the S10 Blazers in the late '80s and early '90s. I hope the aftermarket comes up with a better system.
 
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Lot's of good input here.

The WJ - I almost bought one before buying my current XJ, but the one I want is the most highly desired one - 4.7 HO. Overland - but people are pretty aware of their value these days. I chose the XJ for many reasons, mostly because I know it so well, the aftermarket support, the looks, the huge community, everything about it is cheap. My 99 2 door 5 speed with long arms, gears, other doo-dads cost me less than 4k. I had to put some money into it to make it a safe driver, but a great bang for buck no doubt. I could drive it states away, wheel hard for a week, be able to fix 95% of issues that may pop up, and drive it home for less than 5k invested.

If I'm going to have a cheap jeep platform, it's going to be the XJ.

I've ridden in some well built Xjs and was very impressed at how they drove - so I know it's possible to make them ride great (relatively).

There's lots of reasons to invest in the XJ's creature comforts, but there's also strong argument for having a modern rig that you don't have to do anything to, be very comfortable, and go most places off-road I'm wanting to go.

I'm building my XJ to be comfortable but also have the original ruggedness/ease of maintenance XJ's are known for. If you're bored, here's my build thread: https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1133695

A couple of "experience shares" on my journey creating a decently comfortable XJ.

1. You're going to spend more than you think unless you have the time and are willing to be very patient to find people selling stuff. Also I did 85% or more of the work, had I not my expense would have been A LOT more. I have a bit over $20k in to mine, in just parts.

2. https://offroadonly.com/shop/swayloc/off-road-only-swayloc-for-jeep-wrangler-xj/ - this swaybar seems to be a bit more versatile than the antirock, I liked it because it was fully disconnected with a switch.

3. Someone mentioned "dynamat" - definitely do this, if you really want it to be significant do the doors too.

4. My Deaver springs are, IMO the best springs for an XJ at 5.5" lift. Old Man Emu is also a good choice if a lower lift.

Bottom line, you're in the right place for knowledgeable folks to provide insight. :cheers:
 
a57ccb9e7d7033a1512a4fdf9d3edd0f.jpg

Just made this WJ overland steering wheel upgrade - makes a difference. Cc works, airbag compatible. I’m going to wire up the audio controls when I mod a 99-01 WJ clock spring down the track


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I looked into using the WJ clock spring when I put an overland wheel in mine. The WJ clock spring is physically to big to fit in the XJ clockspring spot. Rumor is that a ZJ with radio buttons clock spring will physically fit but the connectors will need changed.
 
...

2. https://offroadonly.com/shop/swayloc/off-road-only-swayloc-for-jeep-wrangler-xj/ - this swaybar seems to be a bit more versatile than the antirock, I liked it because it was fully disconnected with a switch.

...

I'm surprised that aftermarket front swaybars have any popularity. Is a manual disconnect really that much of a hassle? I understand the modernization theme, but it takes 1 minute to release my RC quick disconnects. And I've driven on-road with the swaybar disconnected, and for conservative driving, its hardly noticeable that its been disconnected. Perhaps something like Antirock would make more sense if it was <$200, but the darn thing is at least $550.
 
Having just added seat heaters to my 01, the thought of a heated wheel would be a real bonus. Wonder how feasible that is without a cheesy steering wheel cover/cord.
 
Having just added seat heaters to my 01, the thought of a heated wheel would be a real bonus. Wonder how feasible that is without a cheesy steering wheel cover/cord.

After watching a video on how to recover a steering wheel, I'm not sure I would attempt it myself. I wonder how much an upholstery shop would charge to recover with the heating elements slipped in.
 
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