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Bumper/Receiver build and SFR shackles boxes

I'll see if I can get one later when a paint the inside of the rails. There are already 2 3/8" holes in the rail that align with the 1/4" holes in the bracket.
 
I will add that the bar is 1-1/4" inches wide and the rear weld is on the driver's side and the front weld was on the passenger side. I recommend a small inspection mirror to see what your actually dealing with.
 
I will add that the bar is 1-1/4" inches wide and the rear weld is on the driver's side and the front weld was on the passenger side. I recommend a small inspection mirror to see what your actually dealing with.

Thanks. That's helpful. So apparently the welds are inside the rail?
 
Got off to a bad start today, just as I was making practice cuts on my tie-in tubing and the compressor started smoking. Evidently the pump is about to seize but I did get I wanted the cuts made and will snap some pics tomorrow.
 
That sucks.

I was wondering if I could cope tube easily with a plaz. Ive got decent copping with a torch.

Have you tried gaugeing with it,weld removal

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Have you tried gaugeing with it,weld removal
I wouldn't know, my plasma only came with gouging tips!


This is where I left off yesterday, today I'll get the mountings holes laid out and get the holes drilled. I'm going to try to baby my air compressor along while I look for a replacement pump, but it served me well - 12yrs outside in the rain and 7yrs since I built the garage and brought it inside.
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Looks good now I can understand how rhe trailer hitch bolt holes are incorporated in your build.
 
I got the tie-in's laid out today along with a section of what the top plate will be so I can get to a little more cutting/fabbing!
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Yesterday I was able to get the new compressor on and going. Like a lot of things, the pump had every thing different and was not at all "bolt-on" but it's done and much quieter. Today I'll try to finish up the tie-ins and start on the receiver portion and may try to get the top plate cut out!
 
Like most things in life it didn't go exactly as planned. After complete look at what I was really dealing with it turned out a lot easier to make a couple of small "incisions" with the plasma cutter. It was actually a couple of fillet welds on opposite corners. I still have no idea what it's intended purpose for being there would be.

...

That thing was a PITA to remove. I first tried drilling out the attachment welds. I drilled one and found that I had to keep expanding the hole to remove the entire weld. I eventually decided that I didn't want to make another hole that big in the unibody rail to remove the other weld.

What ended up working really nicely was whacking the piece using a rod slid into the unibody rail from the rear of the vehicle. I think the rod was about 5/8" diameter steel by about 2 ft long, and I was able to shear the welds using a framing hammer. The weld closer to the front of the vehicle was about 80% removed already, but I'm pretty sure that I could have used this technique from the beginning, and it would have taken about 5 minutes total. A 2-3 lb hand sledge would have likely made this go really easy. Be ready for the piece to go shooting down the rail when it finally lets loose. You'll want something that can be used to retrieve it.
 
That thing was a PITA to remove. I first tried drilling out the attachment welds. I drilled one and found that I had to keep expanding the hole to remove the entire weld. I eventually decided that I didn't want to make another hole that big in the unibody rail to remove the other weld.

What ended up working really nicely was whacking the piece using a rod slid into the unibody rail from the rear of the vehicle. I think the rod was about 5/8" diameter steel by about 2 ft long, and I was able to shear the welds using a framing hammer. The weld closer to the front of the vehicle was about 80% removed already, but I'm pretty sure that I could have used this technique from the beginning, and it would have taken about 5 minutes total. A 2-3 lb hand sledge would have likely made this go really easy. Be ready for the piece to go shooting down the rail when it finally lets loose. You'll want something that can be used to retrieve it.

Awesome tip. Thank you for posting this.

Thinking about it, welding a cold chisel to a piece of solid rod might be the real ticket.
 
Awesome tip. Thank you for posting this.

Thinking about it, welding a cold chisel to a piece of solid rod might be the real ticket.

After getting the interior of the rail cleaned up, I observed that a small amount of the weld still remains and sits proud from the interior of the weld, so its not a perfect solution. Its perhaps 1/16" proud. Your chisel idea might help minimize this, especially if its wedge style chisel tip.
 
Awesome tip. Thank you for posting this.

Thinking about it, welding a cold chisel to a piece of solid rod might be the real ticket.

After getting the interior of the rail cleaned up, I observed that a small amount of the weld still remains and sits proud from the interior of the weld, so its not a perfect solution. Its perhaps 1/16" proud. Your chisel idea might help minimize this, especially if its wedge style chisel tip.

I'm thinking it would be easier to notch the mount to clear that piece than remove it. Thoughts?
 
I'm thinking it would be easier to notch the mount to clear that piece than remove it. Thoughts?

If you have a mill, notching would be a piece of cake. I only have a die grinder, and it took me me a fair bit of time to notch the region around the raised hole. Might be quicker with a bench grinder. As keep in mind that the piece metal is a full 0.25" thick. Might be easiest to cut a slot in the bar going into the rail.
 
I'm thinking it would be easier to notch the mount to clear that piece than remove it. Thoughts?

It would depend on your ultimate goal, it only took 15 minutes to clear everything out of those pockets so I get the maximum steel contact in there.

I didn't get much done this weekend as my steel order didn't show up.
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I just picked up this over-grown ball joint taper(approx 1-1/4" dia.) to use as my swing arm securing/retaining bolt. I do not want my tire moving around at all!
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I got a little work done this week. I got the backbone cut and tacked together.
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