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My jeep build with photos over the last few years.

Well a lot of the local clubs (including my own) do not allow them on runs. They are considered likely to fail and not be repairable on the trail.

I don’t agree with “likely to fail”- Lincoln lockers have been proven effective, and like any weld job, if done correctly the metal is bonded and just not any more likely to break than an lsd, lunchbox locker, or even just an open diff. When I welded the diff on my last Jeep I used a rectangular piece of 1/4” steel to connect all of the spider gears on top of welding them to each other at contact points. It lasted longer then the axle, and even found a new home when I upgraded.

For argument sake, how is it less repair able then breaking a shaft? Or axle tube for that matter? Tie rod end? Leaf shackle? None of the guys in your club have a trail welder? We always had a few on hand during big meets.


On that note... do you go around popping diffs during air down?? Lmmfao just seems like a silly and highly UN-enforceable rule. Violation of said rule gets you kicked out?
 
How do you replace a axle seal on a welded c-clip axle? We don't refuse anybody on a run but you would be asked to trail the pack and be responsible for yourself. Many of our runs are multi-day and never returning over the same route.
 
How do you replace an axle seal on any diff? NOT on the trail! Lol that’s hardly keep the rig from getting around. The bigger worry is when the clip axle (turdy5) undoubtedly breaks- and you have to chase the shaft and wheel down the hill! The 8.25 is non clip isn’t it?

To your question, if just the spiders are welded, instead of the plate technique I used, you’d have a window to remove clip and change seals if you wanted to?
 
Lincoln locker has done me well on this 35 and 10bolt on my k5.
Not entirely sure that it comes apart any different than before welding. I removed it to weld the put it back it. I didnt put a plate in but I did weld it thought it was good but decided to weld it more. More always better ;)
I'm getting wiser and tend to pedal out more then pedal on.

I can see were the groups are coming from it but i wouldn't necessarily think welded is more likely to break. However some drivers are more likely to break parts then otheres are.

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That black over spray was getting to me realized I'm also over the black.

Just sprayed what green i had left. I like it much better and dont have to worry about over spray also doesn't draw as much attention to flaws in my fab skills .

5 more cans and shes good to go for another couple years
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Good choice! Over spray aside, I think the all green flares looks better too man... I REALLY dig the lines of the fenders. Im stuck with Bushwhackers crap that will be a nightmare to remove. I can likely cut the fenders high enough to remove the holes, but the rear door will be a pisser. Might have to do some armor style 1/8" steel over em or something. Id Hate to have to play with bondo, especially on a trail rig.

Brings up my actual point, LOL, some quarter panel armor might be exactly what YOU need? Itd be perfect to give you a place to tie the flares into, and woyld make the whole area rigid af.
 
Thanks
think weld flares to door area will bring strength in.
There prett slid as is. Rear bumper is tied to frame where flares tie in.

Calling it good for now. Till tubes are needed to anchor rear coil overs or roof rack.

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Went on a 27mile run last night ended up in creek the trail runs in the creek for half mile or so on the good Al's cut off just off the Oregon trail. Jeep did amazing. Cut tire held up with no chunking getting through washed out trails due to snow run off was wishing for rollover protection at one point and eyeing winch anchor points to hold her upright of wich there were none. Thought for sure we'd end up upside down at one point. So glad the rear is turning true. I normally don't throttle up but did this time. I put the hammer down and cranked her into the role diving near vertical into the willows nose down. Regained my composure with my girl friend watching from outside and walked out of the creek finishing our night run without any more excitement.

I kept thinking shit we got this it always works out . My mind is always thinking ahead though ok we might role then what we still got this.

Now in the garage fighting the ideal 3/4" cutting head. Have tire heated to near 100 deg now ith the .2" head on.
Hoping to finish side cuts and open up center lugs some.

Figured I'd toss a pick in of my lower shock mount anchoring dodge pickup shock. No idea how long they are but they work pretty good maybe alittle to soft off road.
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Finished cutting the fronts and went out for quick run by myself. I'm liking this tire almost has a tsl like shoulder and grippy center.

Trail was mild but I was getting a steering feeling like I had a flat when fronts would grab and pull. I like it. There alittle louder on the pavement.
Going to watch fronts for a few before I cut the rears. The rear is hard on tires due to lincoln locker. I think the cut tires will survive. Want to see if they start chunking on the front first.

Getting a clunking I think trans or motor mount. I've replaced one motor mount with a used motor mount. Think it may be time to get some solid motor mounts and then trans mount.

Took a few poser pics just for shits.

Came home and drew a spring perch that could take the place of 3" blocks and also move axle rearward 1.5"ish. The perch idea has been in my head for awhile should be better than blocks and will be gusseted into tubes.
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Lift block or tall spring perch won't change the axle wrap, it's still the wrong way to get height.
 
Some say it's wrong to lift a vehicle but for some reason we stil all do it.
My truck has 6" blocks from the factory lots of vehicles run factory blocks


I've drawn these perches 8" long and with more axle engagement than factory perches. Well honestly I was measuring of the 3" 8.25 axle so maybe the d35 is different.
Axle wrap probly wont be affected much specially on my flat factory springs I don't notice it anyways the way I drive. Though I will make it 8" .

However I was thinking about doing shackle mounts not necessarily for lift but for plating the frame . I think I gain half that relocation in lift probably only 1.5: or so.
I dont want goofy long shackles hanging down but probably ought build some beffyshackles.

After all that I got to thinking spring perch may only need to provide about 1" of lift. If I ever ended up replacing my wore out leafs it would be to tall.

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Did some quick looking online for motor mounts they run 80-100 bucks for the brown dog type. They look to be plate scabedd to bushings. There are better looking mounts out there but they run near 200.

So for 32 I orderd pair of some bushings and sleeves I can build better . Less cash to do but I'll have some labor in them.
They do have inner bolt diameter of 9/16. So ill be drilling mounts that are bolted to motor.

I've got plenty of room work.
Also a photo of my dodge pickup factory 6" block.

Different application s truck tows nd runs pavement mostly does see most offroad it sees is gravel rds
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You could have bought HD pre-finished shackles cheaper. :doh:
 
I haven't seen any finished shackles I like.

Plus these are from a local builder. Pretty cool stopping in his shop.
Not entirely impressed with the tall xj out front but not every ones shares my tastes wich is apparent in this thread.

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Did a quick google search and found a bunch of generac unboxed open style HD shackles from 80-90.
I payed 60.
20-30 bucks is not a huge savings but is boxed design like I'd build myself . I'd have alot of time in shaping plus torch gas and yada.
I'll just bend and weld these. Got to see inside K Suspension's shop to.

May do shackle boxes maybe no lift like the iron rock box. Well see though. I
Need to come up with about 1" more inch of lift from some where to get rid of 3" block.

Decided not to do the perch because I don't want to put materials in the 2.5" tubes when I plan to swap the 8.25 in soon anyways

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Well the K fab diy shackles are 3/16" (like factory), everyone else uses 1-piece pre-bent steel in either 1/4" or 3/8" and are machine bent/welded and painted. Rusty's which are 3/8" are only 70$, and there is nothing special about the K'fabs specially at that price. You might even have been able to build a set from scratch for a lot less but I wouldn't trust your welding for a suspension component.
 
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