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Old October 18th, 2008, 20:22
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5-90 5-90 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammerspace
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Re: Replacing the Fuel Filter (Renix Era)

I sign and date all maintenance items - pressure bottle, filters, cap & rotor - it's just good practise. I've been hit in the head too many times to remember anything, what's yer excuse?

If you've been sitting long enough for the engine to cool down (you should - fuel on a hot exhaust isn't fun...) you should have had the pressure already bleed down. This doesn't have anything to do with fuel draining from the filter - it's not under pressure, but there's still static volume of about a half pint there, and relieving the pressure doesn't drain it.

Engine mounts and the oil filter adapter didn't change much - the only real change would be to the oil filter adapter job, early HO took a 5/8" hex key and late HO takes a T-60. Both have to be improvised if you want to do the job without having to jack up the engine to clear the frame member, but it's plenty doable.

It's a cinch the screws for the transmission mount to the transmission case are metric (the AW4 is a Toyota design, the BA-10 is Frog, and the AX-15 is also Toyota,) and that would actually be a 19m/m wrenching head. If I recall ISO standards correctly, the 19m/m wrenching head comes back to an M12 (1.75m/m or 2.0m/m thread pitch, I don't recall...) screw, and match the underhead length (the studs from the mount cushion to the crossmember should be M8-1.25, use Nylon collar locking nuts. Replace if removed - they're cheap, and using new ones is cheap insurance.) If I've been told what it is, it's on my site, so check there.

Gloves - the fabric/synthleather "Mechanic's Gloves" are excellent for any "dry" job you're going to run across, and they've saved me burns and plenty of gouges in my paws (I'd sooner go drop $20 on another pair of gloves than be handicapped for a week while I'm knitting.)

Latex - use these for "wet" jobs - valve covers and oil sumps come readily to mind. They don't protect you as much from burns and scrapes, but they'll save you from irritant effects of oils and mild solvents. They also breathe fairly well, so you won't get too hot. You'll change them fairly often (it's nice to be able to get clean hands in a few seconds, vice having to go wash several dozen times a day as well.)

Nitrile - these are the "blue" gloves. Nitrile rubber is more resistant to solvents than latex, which is what I use them for (organic solvents include the heavier alcohols, gasoline, acetone, turpentine, naptha, xylene, and the like.) Some parts cleaning solvents can literally dissolve latex in short order - Nitrile rubber is a relative of the stuff they use to make fuel hoses and pump diaphragms. It's not Butyl or Viton, but it's close. NB: Nitrile does not "breathe" like latex - and your hands are going to get sweaty in a hurry. It's a trade-off, and it's why I go through one box of Nitrile for every eight boxes of Latex or so - I only use Nitrile for solvent work.)

When selecting a glove, you want a "slightly tight" fit. This gives maximum dexterity (you don't want a fit so close that it constricts your hand,) and maximum sensation (product of the "second skin" fit.) A good test? For mechanic's gloves, try to pick a quarter up off of a flat surface while wearing them. For latex/Nitrile, try a penny or a dime (a penny is good, a dime is excellent.) Only the fingers of one hand, and no fair using anything or sliding it to the edge of the table!
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