View Single Post
  #3  
Old December 30th, 2007, 09:56
GrimmJeeper's Avatar
GrimmJeeper GrimmJeeper is offline
Dead man walking
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Gardena, CA
Posts: 25,176
Re: [Tech Writeup] Replacing the seals on your Dana 30

man, that was some good carne asada, now back to work.

clean the housing out as good as you can. get the brake cleaner and wash it out completely. dont forget to clean the axle tubes out. we did this by shoving a rag into the tube from the inside, then using the broom stick from before to push it all the way to the outside of the tube. do this a few times, shaking the rag off each time and shooting some brake cleaner in there. once youve got it all cleaned out wipe out the surfaces where the seals sit and it should look like this:



make sure to clean all the old silicone off the diff cover and the housing, i used a scraper and an abrasive disk mounted to a drill, the kind you clean old gaskets off with. a wire wheel on a grinder works very well too. make sure you clean all the little pieces of silicone out of the housing after this step.

rub a small amount of fresh gear oil all over the seal to make it slide in easier, and to pre lube the rubber seal surface so the axles dont tear the rubber when you put them back in. put the seal in from the inside with the horn shaped side facing towards the outside.



this part will take two people, but hey, thats why you bought so much beer right? place a 36MM socket against the seal, and slide your broomstick in from the outside of the axle tube. line the stick up on the socket...



and hit it with the hammer to seat the seal. it will take awhile of tapping and repositioning the broomstick against the socket to get it to seat completly. once you get one side in move to the other one and do the same thing. make sure the stick you are using is small enough in diameter to fit through the seal for when you need to do the other side. we had to switch to a piece of conduit pipe to get to the second side.





once you get the seals seated make sure to knock over the bottle of gear oil just past the edge of the drip board, then use brake cleaner to make the stain bigger.



clean the bearings and races for the carrier off with brake cleaner to make sure you didnt get dirt on them when you were checking the bearings, then put it back together and pop the carrier in. put the caps back on and get out the torque wrench. tourqe the cap bolts to 60ft/lbs. you really need to use the tourque wrench here, you cant get away with just making them as tight as you think they need to be. improper torque settings on these bolts will cause uneven wear on the bearings, and more problems for you down the road. do it right the first time.



slide the axle shafts back in slowly, making sure you dont tear those nice new seals you just spent all day putting in.line up the bolt holes in the rotor backing plates and the unit bearings. make sure you are putting the backing plates back on facing the correct way. if you dont get them on right the calipers won't go back on and you will have to tear it all back apart.



place a nice even bead of silicone on the diff cover and let it sit for about 30 seconds to get tacky, then pop it on and tighten it up.



put the calipers and rotors back on, put the tierod back on the knuckle and tighten the nut to pull it back into place, put a new cotter pin in it, and you're done!



refill the axle housing until oil just starts to come out of the hole, and put the plug back in. put the tires on, take it for a drive, and enjoy your leak free housing.
Reply With Quote