• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Sound deadening

RichP

RichP

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Effort, Pa
I plan on quieting down the interior of my 98, it's an SE so there's NO insulation anywhere other than carpet and headliner. I do not plan on doing the whole interior at once, don't have the time to rip out insides and put it back together in one shot, can't spare a weekend. Plan on doing it a bit at a time. Question is what are the most noisy areas that will show the best results. Also the application of the material, best technique for application, tricks n tips...
Somebody mentioned some material available at home depot and/or Lowes that is much cheaper $$ wise...
 
No scientific info for you but I'd try to do it in bits and pieces.

Looking at the largest flat peice of sheet metal and/or proximity to noisy bits I'd proceed in this order:

- firewall
- floor
- side/doors (if accessible)
- roof

If you can spare a day or so per area over the course of a bunch of weekends it should be done in no time.

I'd be leary to use the cheapie hardware store stuff. I'm concerned with the off-gassing from asphalt products and such. We are exposed to enough cancer causing agents/waves/etc., no sense in tempting fate.

Plan here is to look into the epoxy (?) based noise/heat suppression products that can be brushed or rolled on. They should set up mostly solid, are paintable, etc.

HTH
 
I would start with the roof. It isn't too bad to access and it is the largest part. I used a spray-on product from Rockford Fosgate called Noisekiller, but I don't think it is available anymore. I know there are some other comparable items on the market.

I, too, have wondered about sticking the asphalt/foil sheets in my car. I have the windows down a lot and it isn't exactly air-tight in the first place. I think I would consider it as an affordable solution to Dynamat, or the like.

I did this after I had 2 12" Fosgates installed in the back of my Jeep. The roof would resonate like a bitch. Not anymore. The problem with a spray-on application is the need to mask off everything. It is a lot like spraying on rubberized undercoating.

Nevermind about the Hope Deport peel-and-seal asphalt sheets. I just read they fall off in the summer heat. That would blow.
 
Last edited:
I'm doing some more reading, I'd like to find a cheaper $$ wise alternative to damplifier pro but want to avoid asphalt if I can and go with straight buytl rubber with the foil..
 
RichP said:
I'm doing some more reading, I'd like to find a cheaper $$ wise alternative to damplifier pro but want to avoid asphalt if I can and go with straight buytl rubber with the foil..
Click to expand...

The heavy duty undercoating from Autozone worked really on the insides of my doors. I made sure the windows were all the way up, took the panels off and then used masking tape to cover the window tracks. I just hosed the whole thing down, ended up putting about 1/8-3/16" of rubberized coating over the entire door skin. I did all 4 doors this way, then I picked up some similar stuff from NAPA that didn't seem to be a rubbery, and took nearly 3 days to become tacky. Bad stuff, didn't even work very well, I used the NAPA stuff over the rear wheels and inside the rear panels, around the gas fill tube, etc. Not on the cargo deck, just on the wheel wells. It didn't kill the noise nearly as well as the Vatozone stuff.

I noticed more difference from the mechanical side though, tires made a big difference (in the wrong direction, my tires are noisier that what I had before), removed the roof rails (HUGE improvement on wind noise on the freeway) and lost the mech fan which helped a surprising amount with noise, got me better off-the-stoplight performance and a little better economy.

I haven't done anything else, didn't want to take the Jeep out of commision nor spend a bunch of money. I have a so-so stero with amp and now it sounds better, enough that I really enjoy it. I also have the Laredo package, which includes underhood insulation and padding on the floor. An extra layer of carpet pad in the cargo area helped cover the sound of my Flowmaster, but I took it out for something and haven't replaced it.
 
I used some of this stuff.
Heat/Sound Insulation
I only put it in the liftgate, above the headliner, and in the rear doors. I was going to put more in, but ended up using it on a friends car. Even with what little I did do, it made a big difference. You can sit inside my rig and tell where I didn't put it just by the amount of noise that comes through. I used some 3M spray adhesive #08090 to hold it where I wanted it.
 
I planning on doing this in in the future and I had planned in doing the fatmat deal. After reading this http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ I completely found a better product. It all comes down to asphalt based vs. butyl based, the later being superior, and the Rammaudio product can not be touched.

It is butyl based priced competively w/ asphalt based.
Just thought I'd share my findings. :read:
 
I used the Raamaudio on one of my cars and it was very impressive. I got it off of ebay from raamaudio for significantly cheaper than fatmat, dynamat, etc.
 
raypla said:
I planning on doing this in in the future and I had planned in doing the fatmat deal. After reading this http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ I completely found a better product. It all comes down to asphalt based vs. butyl based, the later being superior, and the Rammaudio product can not be touched.

It is butyl based priced competively w/ asphalt based.
Just thought I'd share my findings. :read:
Click to expand...

The fatmat is rubber too, no mention of asphalt that I could find...
 
BrettM said:
anybody used anything from McMaster-Carr?

go to www.mcmaster.com and search for "sound damper"

this one looks particularly interesting: search 9545T1
Click to expand...

The temp range does not look too hot, most vehicles get above 200F in the sunshine when parked..
 
Here Rich its in the article, page labeled Asphalt vs. Butyl



From the article:
What are these things made of?

This is at the heart of the matter. There are three basic compounds used for the adhesive layer of these products:

SBR(styrene-butadiene-rubber)/Asphalt

This is the least expensive material to use. It is predominantly asphalt with a latex polymer, the SBR part, added for stability. Asphalt has one virtue. It is cheap. They make roads out of it. Unfortunately, it has several negative features that limit its usefulness for our purposes. It melts at a relatively low temperature. It becomes brittle at a relatively high temperature. Both states are bad for us. Optimum viscoelasticity requires that the material not be liquid or solid. Basic mass loading requires that the material adhere to the surface we want it to. If it melts, it will fall off vertical or inverted surfaces. If it becomes brittle, it is susceptible to detaching under normal vibrations.

The rubber compound is added to the asphalt to stabilize it. SBR/asphalt melts at a higher temperature and becomes brittle at a lower temperature than plain or "neat" asphalt. This doesn't completely solve the problem. SBR is subject to long term deterioration at temperatures that are possible in a car.

When I started this investigation, one of my primary objectives was to figure out why so many people seemed to have trouble with their mat falling off. If you search the Web for sound deadener falling off, you will see lots of cases of asphalt mats failing and no failures that I have been able to find involving butyl based mats. It just isn't possible that user error would be so neatly divided.

I looked at the specifications for products developed for roofing, which many of the products in this category began life as, I saw the problem. Roofing materials are designed to withstand temperatures of 158°FX for two weeks without melting. Manufacturers supply butyl products for situations that will either exceed this temperature or duration. Extend the time and the maximum sustainable temperature falls. This explains why some people have had success with XasphaltX mats for a few years, only to have them fail in a subsequent year. Failure can be disastrous. If you're lucky, the mat will just fall off. If you're not, it will melt - pools of asphalt in your carpet or upholstery or window mechanism.

Another problem with asphalt mats is the smell. You should be fine during cool weather, but on a hot day, they tend to smell like, well asphalt.

Peel & Seal and Jiffy Seal are roofing products that fit in this category. Many people buy them for sound deadening. Of the products I tested, XB-Quiet Extreme, Brown Bread, Dynamat Original, eDead v1, eDead v1SE and FatMat are in this group. Many people report great success with one or more of these mats. They are certainly the cheapest option. If you know your car will never be exposed to extreme heat or cold, they may work for you.XI'm not suggesting that all of these products have a 100% failure rate under extreme conditions, but I do believe they are risky. Their narrower temperature range also means they will be less effective the farther they get from room temperature. I would not use any of these products in my car.
Click to expand...
:passgas:

I plan on using the Raamat everywere except the tranny hump and the firewall there I'll use the Second Skin Damplifier or the Damplifier Pro product. :sunshine:
 
Last edited:
Check out www.soundproofing.org

They are THE soundproofing solution. There stuff is used to sound proof airplanes... are mildew and fire retardant, at least 3 times as thick as any raammat or fatmat or dynamat, and best of all cheaper per square foot.

Read their guid to soundproofing here:

http://www.soundproofing.org/infopages/soundprf.html

This will give you a good idea on what areas to hit for best soundproofing results.

Personally I would start firewall and add under the hood.

-Kevin
cyberbackpacker
 
For one thing, after I removed my carpet, theres a big hole in the firewall to the right, above the steering column. You see it under the hood to the left below the brake booster (I think it gets covered by a thin rubber patch). Anyway, I plugged that hole with some sound dampening mat pieces (used in buildings for gymnasiums, etc) glued with a sound dampening adhesive product and on top of that theres this thick, adhesive backed "felt" used in construction. I know this isin't much but its a start.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
New to my XJ & wrenching - How to choose parts and what to prioritize?!
2
Replies
28
Views
4K
flyin_ryan
F
M
How to choose parts and what to prioritize?! New to my XJ & wrenching.
Replies
0
Views
740
myXJpeg
M
M
How to choose parts and what to prioritize?! New to my XJ & wrenching.
Replies
7
Views
1K
XJI6191
X
B
1986 Comanche 5.3l Vortec Resto-Mod
Replies
0
Views
2K
Brandon_St.Clair
B
X
Re-homing my baby
Replies
0
Views
535
x-jay vision
X
Back
Top