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AW4 filter change pictures

kndrewa

I have not Confirmed, or I used a BAD email Addy
NAXJA Member
there are tons of threads about changing the filter in your aw4.
however, i couldn't seem to find many with pictures.
here are a few photos for anyone interested.

IMG_1501.jpg

IMG_1544.jpg
 
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STEP 1.)
drain the fluid
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the aw4 transmission pan holds 4 liters of ATF - dextron III.
(the entire transmission holds closer to 9 liters, i only changed the pan volume)

the transmission cross member is right in the way of the drain flow.
i used this small funnel to redirect the flow away from the x-member:
IMG_1519.jpg


after draining the fluid, i re-installed the drain plug.
not all fluid drains from the pan due to recesses and ribbing.
i will deal with the rest of the fluid in the pan in a few minutes.
 
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STEP 2.)
remove the bolts holding the pan to the transmission
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they should be torqued to 53-70 in/lbs, but mine came off very easily.
(perhaps tightening these would have stopped my leak!)

removal of most of the bolts is very easy:
IMG_1541.jpg


some bolts at both ends of the pan require a swivel for easy removal.
the exhaust pipe is in the way at the front of the pan:
IMG_1526.jpg


the transmission cross member is in the way at the back of the pan:
IMG_1529.jpg


one bolt was blocked by the exhaust hanger:
IMG_1532.jpg


i used a ratchet strap to pull the hanger over enough to get clearance:
IMG_1538.jpg
 
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_______________________________________________________________

STEP 3.)
break transmission pan seal
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the factory uses red RTV sealant as a gasket.
this sealant gets hot and bakes on as it adheres to the trans and pan.
i used a rubber mallet to tap around the pan to loosen the sealant.

a sharp flat chisel helped to carefully pry the pan loose at a corner:
IMG_1554.jpg


a quick note about the dipstick tube:
its a 2 piece unit held together with some kind of o-ring.
i couldn't get mine to seperate, so i unbolted the upper half in the engine compartment.

the dipstick tube is wedged in place on route to the engine compartment.
it is now all that holds the pan up - as seen in the lower right:
IMG_1556.jpg
 
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STEP 4.)
drain remaining fluid
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as you can see, my transmission fluid was quite dark, but it didn't smell burnt.
transmission fluid is supposed to be a translucent reddish pink.
good thing i will be cycling in some fresh fluid - if yours smells burnt, change it!

quite a bit of fluid stays in the pan after the initial drain:
IMG_1563.jpg


at this point, i unscrewed the drain plug once again.
tilting the pan allowed me to drain the remaining fluid:
IMG_1559.jpg
 
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STEP 5.)
remove transmission pan from jeep
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work the dipstick tube and trans pan out from under the jeep.
it is kind of a game of angles - but you'll eventually weave it out of there.

the tube will remain connected to the pan for the entire procedure:
IMG_1566.jpg


there are 2 small magnets in the bottom of the transmission pan.
they accumulate the small metallic particles which appear as your transmission breaks in.
i was pleased to see that i had a normal amount of wear as indicated by the metal on the magnets.
IMG_1570.jpg


the left magnet is cleaned, the right magnet has accumulated metals:
IMG_1573.jpg
 
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STEP 6.)
prep pan for new gasket
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i scraped all of the red RTV sealant from the pan.
i used a bit of parts cleaner and emery cloth on seal surfaces.
(being VERY careful, as parts cleaner should not be in a transmission!)
IMG_1581.jpg
 
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STEP 7.)
out with the old filter , in with the new filter
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the filter is held in place with 4 13mm bolts.
the transmission filter is the dark gray rectangle
IMG_1587.jpg


with the filter removed:
IMG_1595.jpg


old filter on bottom, new filter on top:
IMG_1593.jpg

IMG_1595.jpg
 
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STEP 8.)
re-install transmission pan
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its easy from here out!

the cleaned magnets are put back in the pan for re-installation.
note the dipstick tube going to the engine compartment:
IMG_1620.jpg


feeding the dipstick tube back up to the engine compartment:
IMG_1606.jpg


the gasket constricted enough at each bolt hole to hold the bolts in place for me.
i put one bolt on each side to get it held in place at first.
one 'prep' bolt on the far left, one near the right side:
IMG_1611.jpg


torque them down and add fluid - you're done!
IMG_1662.jpg
 
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APPENDIX A.)
tools used
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* shop light
* pocket knife
* ratchet strap
* chisel - wide
* chisel - narrow
* parts cleaner
* emery cloth
* rubber mallet
* shop gloves
* torque wrench
* 3/8 ratchet
* 3/8 extension
* 13 mm sockets
* swivel
* 1/4 ratchet
* 1/4 extension
* small funnel
* long funnel
* flashlight
* punch
 
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i should go ahead and do the 'poor mans flush' now..
..i just ran out of fluid at the time.
i will get more and drain/fill it a few more times.
that should cycle most of the old stuff out.

in the mean time i am happy to report smoother shifts!
 
For the record, fill capacity for the AW4 is 8 liters, or 8.45 qts. And I really hope that was a typo. Torque range on the pan bolts in 53-70 INCH pounds, not ft. 60 ft. lbs will leave you with a nice smooth shaft where thread used to live.................:repair:

Nice writeup otherwise. Now just remember to leave the pictures there forever. So three years down the road, when someone comes across this in a search, they don't see a bunch of red Xs!
 
Nice write-up, I would add that getting the pan out is easier if you remove the cross-member. That is also a good opportunity to inspect and/or replace the troublesome transmission mount.
 
A few things - once you get the pan out, it's easy to get the dipstick tube out using some penetrating lube, a tiny bit of heat, and some twisting. Then it's easy to put both back in separately.

Also, a brass wire wheel is great for cleaning the edge of the pan - softer than the steel so it won't hurt it and you can just go to town. I used brake cleaner instead of parts cleaner, it does a decent job of softening RTV and evaporates very quickly so no worries about leaving it in the pan.

Other than that, excellent writeup!
 
When I tried to do this I couldnt get the pan off. PO had new exhasut pipe welded up at sometime during its life and the sjop bent the pipe so it ran right under the pan. Had to work a new gasket in by hand, never did get the filter off. Just a heads up to others.
 
_______________________________________________________________

APPENDIX A.)
tools used
_______________________________________________________________

* shop light
* pocket knife
* ratchet strap
* chisel - wide
* chisel - narrow
* parts cleaner
* emery cloth
* rubber mallet
* shop gloves
* torque wrench
* 3/8 ratchet
* 3/8 extension
* 13 mm sockets
* swivel
* 1/4 ratchet
* 1/4 extension
* small funnel
* long funnel
* flashlight
* punch

darn it.
forgot to include my spiffy photo:

IMG_1652.jpg
 
HELP!!!

Great write up on the filter/fluid change.

I just did this procedure on my '96 XJ last week, but now I'm having problems!

After replacing the filter and pan gasket, adding four quarts of Dexron III, and pumping more old fluid out through the tranny cooler return line until I saw new fluid, I can't get the transmission to engage. The shifter moves through each gear but nothing happens, the jeep goes no where. I've been searching the forums but have yet to find anyone with my specific problem. Any suggestions?
 
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