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Fuel pump replacement article for Renix era XJ's.

poorboy_616

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver, WA
My '87 XJ fell victim to a dead fuel pump over the weekend. Here is a replacement how-to for Renix Era XJ's....

Sorry no pictures, camera was packed away....

Tools required:
Brass drift
A ball peen hammer
Flat Blade screwdriver
1/4" drive ratchet
1/4" Dr 5/16" socket
Small extension for ratchet (or use a deep socket)
3/8" combo wrench
Jewelers flat blade screwdriver (optional)

Parts Needed:
One fuel Pump NAPA Part# P74155 (comes with the strainer, gaskets and rubber insulator rings for pump mounting)

Steps:
1) Raise and safely support vehicle if neccessary. I was able to slid my fat butt underneath without lifting the vehicle.
2) Unplug fuel pump connector from main harness (there are a few zip ties securing the wire to the rail, cut the ties to remove the wire). Connector hangs next to filter and passenger side frame rail above axle tube.
3) Using the flat blade srewdriver loosen hose clamp at filter inlet and at the return line, remove loosened lines. (just in front of tank, above the tank lock ring).
4) Using the brass drift and hammer, loosen the lock ring by turning it counter-clockwise.
5) Once the lock ring comes off, the pump assembly may be removed from the tank. Be sure that there is less than a half tank of fuel before removing lock ring.
6) With the pump/sender unit out of the tank, remove the electrical leads from the pump. It may help to use the jewelers screwdriver to loosen the spade terminals on the pump. Getting the pump between the tank and the rear diff can be a challenge, but once the right angle is found, it comes right out.
7) Remove the pump stainer from the bottom of the pump by pulling firmly.
8) Remove the fuel pump ouput hose from the pump after loosening the clamp.
9)Remove the 3/8" bolt from the upper pump bracket. There are two nuts, one for the ground and the other is the mounting bracket. Remove only the bracket bolt.
10) Slide the old pump off the bottom bracket.
11) Install the new rubber isolators onto the new pump, both top and bottom.
12) Slide the pump onto the lower mounting bracket making sure the lower isolator is centered.
13) Slide the pump upper bracket onto the pump, keeping the terminals on the flat side of the upper mounting (the hole is a half circle) to avoid shorting the terminals against it.
14)Tighten the nut securely. Keep the pump as centered as possible while tightening.
15) Install pump strainer to pump by pushing firmly. It's indexed so it can only go on one way (strainer is parrallel to sender float and arm).
16) Connect the fuel pump output hose the pump and tighten the clamp. The new pump comes with a new output hose, use it you need to too.
17) install the spade terminal to post terminal adapters using the supplied 5/16" brass nuts and washers. The smaller spade goes on the negative terminal (the pump is labeled).
18) Reconnect the electrical leads. These are indexed by size, so as long as you got the spades on the correct terminals, your okay.
19) Install the pump/sender into tank using the new O-ring seal between the tank and pump. (you may be able to re-use the OE O-ring).
20) Re-install lock ring using the Brass drifter/hammer and turning it clockwise until the tabs on the ring touch the tabs on the tank. It may take a few tries to line up the pump flange so it drop onto the tank. There is a index tab so you don't get the pump in wring.
21) Reconnect Fuel supply and return hoses and tighten the clamps.
22) Reconnect the fuel pump connector and secure it with zip ties to the frame rail.

Now, if the fuesable link didn't get blown from the bad pump (my pump shorted and blew the link
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), it should fire up once pressure is established.

I have the new pump in, but not the new link. According the FSM, it is green or orange. The problem is, ALL my fuse links are green....

Does anybody know which one it is?? I will be testing the links tommorow.....

BTW, the fuse link for the pump also runs the power feed to the ECM for the injectors, the power for O2s heater, EGR solenoid, canister purge solenoid and the B+ for the diagnostic connector.
 
I'm having the same problem with the pump. My 1986 2.5 will fire for about 3 seconds but no fuel is present. I just found that the relay has the same green wires. So do I test them as you are asking to see if one is blown? BTW on your pump was the wide termnial (+) connected to ground? The previous owner had one hot going to the sending unit and one to the ground. The other wire (-) went to power the pump. This sounds backwards...right?
 
Thanks for this DIY, because I am pretty sure it will help me remove the fuel package from my fuel tank on my 98, (yes I know there are some differences, but at least i have the idea) as my sending unit randomly doesn't send the correct fuel level!!
 
It's been 10 years or more, but my 90 required a hammer a flat tiped screwdriver & a lot of swearing.

I had the swearing down pat...so I filed the ring flange edges and bent them slightly so they would mate easily on the tank. With a bit more swearing I did get the unit reassembled. I've got good fuel pressure but of course, now the fuel gauge needle is pegged at 3 o'clock. According to other posts, I have an open circuit. Back under the XJ I go...one can never get enough dirt in one's eyes.
 
Wow, I really need to check this more often!

I have since changed the pump again. The first A/M pump took a crap and also ate the Relay. The second time you change the pump, it goes MUCH faster. The biggest help for me was getting the rear end off the ground and at full droop the second time around. Full droop gives you a hair more working room.

Make sure you haven't bent the float arm. I bent mine on reinstall the first time. I have it now straightened out, so it's a bit more accurate.

I had the pump in and out in under an hour the second time around.

So, now with a new relay and pump I have full fuel pressure. Now I have some other issues....
 
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