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Started my 4.7 Stroker build today.

I see you used ARP head bolts, why didn't you do that for the mains? Since it's a aluminum head you better stud those rocker bosses.
 
Since it's a aluminum head you better stud those rocker bosses.

Uh, it's an aftermarket Edelbrock aluminum head that was designed with larger reinforced rocker bosses from the start.

I am really interested to see how the build turns out as this is exactly how I was planning to build my stroker.
 
It's about "turning" a steel bolt while pulling torque on aluminum threads. That's a "no-no", with a steel stud that is loctited in your not applying that force!
 
I see you used ARP head bolts, why didn't you do that for the mains? Since it's a aluminum head you better stud those rocker bosses.
. When it comes to the mains, I just used what Russ provided me for them. When it comes to the heads, I am using ARP studs for the rockers, ARP-200-2403. with my HS rockers. I am not sure what you mean about the rocker bosses.
 
. When it comes to the mains, I just used what Russ provided me for them. When it comes to the heads, I am using ARP studs for the rockers, ARP-200-2403. with my HS rockers. I am not sure what you mean about the rocker bosses.

It was in response to Wazzu's comment that Edelbrock re-inforces their rocker boss'es but that wasn't the point, glad you decided on the studs. I would do the valve cover also and for the same reason!
 
It was in response to Wazzu's comment that Edelbrock re-inforces their rocker boss'es but that wasn't the point

I know what your point was. My point is that if you don't think Edelbrock engineers thought of this, or you have first hand experience/knowledge of their heads failing by pulling out rocker boss threads, then you should be calling Edelbrock and sharing that information.
 
I know what your point was. My point is that if you don't think Edelbrock engineers thought of this, or you have first hand experience/knowledge of their heads failing by pulling out rocker boss threads, then you should be calling Edelbrock and sharing that information.

They already know!
 
About the mains. I do have ARP for the head and I do have them for the mains. I did reuse the stock ones. I am wondering what the difference is between stock with the cradle and the ARPs without the cradle.
 
Wait wait stop now. Do not put that head on. Your valve cover bolt threads will pull out. Then itl cause a leak down the side of the head. The temperature variation across the leak will be enough to warp the head causing a blown head gasket.
🤫🤑🤔🤫🤫🤫🤔🤐 kidding

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Sorry for the dumb question... If it's to remedial just ignore it please.
What is the reason for the aluminum head? Cooler intake valve temps or something? Does it show higher compression without pinging?
Tya

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Sorry for the dumb question... If it's to remedial just ignore it please.
What is the reason for the aluminum head? Cooler intake valve temps or something? Does it show higher compression without pinging?
Tya

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Aluminum conducts heat faster than cast iron. This helps cool the engine and allows a higher compression ratio with less risk of preignition or detonation, it also weighs about 30lbs less than the iron one. The Edelbrock aluminum head specifically also has a re-designed "modern" combustion chamber, which according to them is more efficient.
 
A little bit of progress today. I hadn't gotten a crank girdle, so I had to go grab one as well as washers and bolts. To space the girdle out enough so it doesn't hit the rods I grabbed 14 -3/8' - thick grade 8 washers (.120 washers). I first tried the thinner .060 ones but they were too close.

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Installed the girdle with thick 3/8 grade 8 washers and 3/8 nuts.

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I also installed ARP studs and nuts and my Harland Sharp roller rockers. I used ARP-200-2403 for the studs but the nuts they come with are too big for the roller rockers. You need 12- 12 point 5/16 nuts as well. I used ARP -67851B

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I don't have a woodruff key that fits my crank and harmonic balancer, so I am on pause till I get one that works.
 
You better get some studs for the valve cover too. The rest is coming along and looking good.
 
BTW, what are you doing for a valve cover? I modified a stocker at first and then bought the Crown aluminum one. The Crown is nice when I got done fitting all the holes as every one was about a 1/8" off!
 
Did you check your lifter pre-load? I originally had to shim my HS rockers, later I purchased some new 3/8" chromoly pushrods in the correct length. The new pushrods also got rid of a little clatter in the valve train.
 
Did you check your lifter pre-load? I originally had to shim my HS rockers, later I purchased some new 3/8" chromoly pushrods in the correct length. The new pushrods also got rid of a little clatter in the valve train.

I bought some studs for the valve cover, nothing too fancy - just two of these off of Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CON39Y/ I haven't set the pre-load yet. I just wanted to get the rockers on, and am planning to check everything later.
 
As I also live in California I am curious if this engine when complete will pass an emissions test or is this "off road only".
 
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