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yoke upgrades or no

ehall

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
I bought a pair of TJ Rubicon D44s and looking at all the affected areas. I know I will need a front driveshaft since the D44 pinion is longer than the D30. The rear D44 has a 1330, wondering if I should get one for the front. But then the 1310s on the double-cardan shafts will be the weak link, and its a pain to rebuild those, so maybe upgrade the NP242 yokes and find a 1330 double-cardan CV kit. Lot of work... not necessary? If not then why does the rear have a 1330? First time into this part of the forest, any info appreciated
 
according to tom woods... 1330 yields you minimal strength over a 1310, and a loss of operating angle. their recommendation was to stick with 1310, or go 1350.

you can obviously find conversion joints to get you by in the mean time until you decide what you want to do. but buy a spare if you plan to wheel, cant count on someone having the proper conversion joint. custom shafts can be built with what ever you want. or use the spicer PDF to find something that fits what you need.
 
stay with 1310's, for your rig I see no need to go bigger, ive gotten 2 broken 60 shafts and have yet to break a 1310
 
Hmm. I've seen a couple of broken 1310 joints and yokes, but I think they had other problems first, like rusted cap bearings, or a driveshaft slip joint seized up. I lube my junk every oil change to flush water, never had any of those problems. I twisted a driveshaft from the V8 WJ in half, joints are still fine. You might have a point there.
 
Proper gearing in the axles helps to, takes the stress off the ujoints, using quality ujoints helps too
 
Looks like there are Toyota-flange conversion parts that will work. On the axle side there are some 26-spline to Toyota flange adapters, eg Nitro YOKD44-TOY-26, or PartsMike 1B-3051A, some others. On the driveshaft side I would need 1310 to Toyota flange adapters, looks like Spicer 2-2-479 is the one people use. That is for the axle side, have not looked into the transfer case side since I would probably keep those on the bolted CV yoke / centering ball anyway
 
I got my flange from High Angle Driveline.

I have mine on the T-case side in the rear.

At the axle end is where it will give you the most benefit (not mashing the yoke when it's stuck on something).

The t-case end it more for additional strength and ease of install.

Going to flanges isn't the cheapest, but after having it on one end...I want it on them all :laugh:
 
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