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Tie Rod Ends

Want a currie but unwilling to do the possible work necessarily to install it. Seems like a dog chasing its tale from start frustrating finish

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I want to confirm this statement so if/when the time comes to upgrade I'll have no surprises. I'm easily confused.. and some are describing mods I'll need but possibly talking about a setup other than the Currie/Rock Jock.

Hopeful the Rusty's tie rod will work, but if not, or if they wear out quickly, I'd like to jump on the Rock Jock, bolt it up, and go. Not excited about drilling and welding, etc.. don't have a load of equipment.

I have a buddy who's done the Currie on a TJ and an XJ so I have some expertise available. I'll ask him to look over my XJ for his thoughts on requirements.

Thanks.
the currie setup will be bolt on and go with your setup. no additional work needed. the tie rod will actually have a lot of clearance with your drivers side flipped knuckle.

which... i am curious about that knuckle. take a look next time youre playing with TREs. is the knuckle drilled out with an insert welded in? or is it re-tapered from the top (you would see an hour glass shape in the hole)?
 
the currie setup will be bolt on and go with your setup. no additional work needed. the tie rod will actually have a lot of clearance with your drivers side flipped knuckle.

which... i am curious about that knuckle. take a look next time youre playing with TREs. is the knuckle drilled out with an insert welded in? or is it re-tapered from the top (you would see an hour glass shape in the hole)?

Thanks for clearing the fog.. :laugh3:

From EricsXJ in 2013 (who built the diffs):

"...the driver side knuckle has a tie rod flip insert so your tie rod on that end mounts above the knuckle. Your steering will swap directly over to this axle with that one slight change (improvement)."
 
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You might also consider going the extra mile with a good steering damper mount. They help to control any tie-rod roll by being on the "center-line" of the drag-link. https://www.pscmotorsports.com/psc-trcl.html
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P1080669_zpsgjtqw2xe.jpg
 
Why would the the currie correct link or oem matching facting geometry have any issues with tie rod role since to me it appears drag link goes all the way to the knuckle then tie rod connects to drag link.
This system im assuming was probly designed a 100 years ago (90s)
The design works well for a jeep with stock to stockist geometry.

To me the currie name along with the correct link title is more marketing than anything.

Currie is correct that there is only correct steering thankfully they named theres as such and pulled in some sales. However this is outdated and no longer used or desirable on a lifted rig especially a taller lifted rig.


I guess un desirable is a better way to put it since its not entirely junk and may be a slight upgrade over stock.

For me the correct link is not correct for my application others have to make that same decision for themselves

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Why would the the currie correct link or oem matching facting geometry have any issues with tie rod role since to me it appears drag link goes all the way to the knuckle then tie rod connects to drag link.
This system im assuming was probly designed a 100 years ago (90s)
The design works well for a jeep with stock to stockist geometry.

To me the currie name along with the correct link title is more marketing than anything.

Currie is correct that there is only correct steering thankfully they named theres as such and pulled in some sales. However this is outdated and no longer used or desirable on a lifted rig especially a taller lifted rig.


I guess un desirable is a better way to put it since its not entirely junk and may be a slight upgrade over stock.

For me the correct link is not correct for my application others have to make that same decision for themselves

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Relax... he was probably referencing the inverted T/crossover steering that is currently on the vehicle.

I would take inverted Y over inverted T/crossover any day.
 
For me the correct link is not correct for my application...

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Simple fix on a 'not great' steering setup (that PO installed) went out the window when replacement parts wouldn't fit, and all the tail chasing is so I can get input and come up with something that works very well, especially if it turns out I need to replace the whole steering setup at considerable cost.
My rig is hunting, trail riding and a bit of rocks now and then. Will go as hard-core as my sphincter will allow, but not often.

Currie came up in the conversation, some folks have had good luck with it, both here and in my gang; but I'm at a disadvantage, being basically ignorant of the topic. I'm old enough to know what I don't know.

I'm wide open to suggestions and enlightenment about what works and what doesn't. So if you know of a setup where my $600 would be better spent, let's hear it.

If the newest tie rod end fits this will all be moot for the time being; unless and until it wears out again. But, this deep into researching and driving you guys nuts, I'd prefer to come up with potential permanent solutions now rather than starting all over later.

'preciate ya'll.:cheers:
 
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I run the exact set up that article talks about. I did mine over tge knuckle and relocated fabbed track bar also running the cure.
One better upgrades ive done
c08ddb31efd0305b386ac6efb58b71fe.jpg


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So the Rusty's parts didn't fit either??

Yup, they did and the Moog would have as well. But I had to force it in with both hands on an 18" crescent wrench on the tie-rod knuckle.

Both ends came out easily by hand, the new LH threaded end went in just as smoothly. RH threaded end was the one in question and after deciding it was time to buy a new setup for upwards of $600 I used the old adage: "If it doesn't fit, FORCE IT; if it breaks, you needed a new one anyway". Doesn't seem to have cut new threads as I backed it out several times in it's travels and is solid (see sig line.. lol).

Got it all buttoned up, had the wife come out and watch while I straightened the steering wheel a bit, and drove it down the street. All good but will hammer it a bit on the trail Saturday.

Thanks to all for the support and patience. I'm a bit embarrassed but - you just had to be here.. lol.

Now I'm waiting on my IRO leaves + AAL (8 total) in a couple weeks.
 
"You might also consider going the extra mile with a good steering damper mount. They help to control any tie-rod roll by being on the "center-line" of the drag-link. https://www.pscmotorsports.com/psc-trcl.html"

I think I'll do this as soon as I get the draglink diameter. Replace the u-bolt setup that's on there.
My drag link is 1" and the smallest they have is 1.25". Keep looking.

Thanks.
 
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