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Barbed fittings for transmission cooler lines?

Could not agree more on safety. I did not realize atf was as flammable as it is (knew it was bad but DAMN!) till my rig was nearly set on fire by a pinhole leak where my UCA smacked the line into the bottom of the engine block. It was perfectly aimed and hit the exhaust every time I tried to accelerate... only my friends saying "dude, your rig is shooting fire every time you punch it" stopped it from burning.

They said I looked like part of a nascar pit crew when I heard that... grabbed the fire extinguisher and practically flew around the jeep :roflmao:
 
Wow - this mod just made it near the top of my list. I didn't know ATF burned like that... I figured it burnt about the same as most oils -- under pressure or lots of heat only.

Good info!
 
So my co-worker's 92 XJ w/aw4 had a loose tranny cooler hose that decided it wanted to play with the mech fan. I replaced both lines but they didn't come with the washers that go on after the quick discos, so I reused two of the old ones, but still need one where the top radiator mounted hard-line meets the snap on soft line. Also, the pita process of trying to get the lines to snap in the tranny has resulted in at least one seal getting pinched, so drip, drip. AA and the dealership were no help at all. Do I take off those big hexes and replace seals? PNs and rec'd parts stores greatly appreciated.
edit: did some searching and found the dorman 800-714 transmission line connectors(thanks Kastein)
 
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It is interesting that this thread resurfaced.

A couple of things I would like to add.

Anything will burn, even coolant, given the right conditions. I use ATF as lubricant in my 2 cycle engines.

Barbed aluminum fittings, and whole AN fitting thing...
I'm just not big on them.

The only thing rubber hose should be used for is to make connections between something which moves, and hard line. The hose should be of reinforced type, like fuel line.

A double flare in a hard line works wonders in keeping the hose from creeping off the hard line, and does not scuff the inside of the hose as a barbed fitting does. Use a rated hose, like reinforced fuel line. I've don't that on every factory coupling I've run across, and even to replace the stock bit of rubber line between the radiator and the cooler line by the oil pan.

For an emergency repair kit: You carry a pipe cutter tool, a piece of hose and clamps, or a piece of line with compression couplings at all times. You would be amazed what that will repair.

Merry Christmas Folks!
 
gotta bump this!
another reason for AN: simplicity and ease of install/removal! we pulled my aw4 yesterday for the first time since installing the AN stuff, it was plesantly clean with minimal drips! gotta love having a set of -6 caps in the tool cart!
 
nice! I forgot about caps. that would make keeping a spare trans and tcase ready to bolt in full of fluid and sealed up on a chase truck pretty easy too.
 
The only thing rubber hose should be used for is to make connections between something which moves, and hard line. The hose should be of reinforced type, like fuel line.

...

Use a rated hose, like reinforced fuel line.

Just re-reading through the thread here, and I wanted to comment on this.

do NOT use fuel hose, even if it's the reinforced fuel injection hose type. The ATF will dissolve it, and eventually the line will burst. Use oil cooler hose available at any parts store, it's rated to 300 PSI and is oil resistant.

I only have a foot or so of rubber hose between the trans and the body up front on each line, then another 18 inches on the back where it goes from hard line into the cooler. As Ron was getting at above, don't run rubber hose the whole length of the vehicle, only use short lengths of it to go from something that will move (like the trans) to something that will not (like a hard line mounted to the frame).
 
Bumped this thread just for the pure fact it saved me the time of figuring it out myself :D

It's been a year or so, anyone have any problems?
 
not a single problem from mine either, i don't run an auto trans anymore but the new owner of my old trans is very happy with them still.
 
No problems here either. One day I will have time to post pics as I did my setup a little different.
 
Couple other good ones for this are:

165006 -6 to 3/8" compression fitting (male)
165106 -6 to 3/8" compression fitting (female)
9804061 -6 tee for Autometer 1/8 NPT trans temp probe

I used these for mounting the Autometer temp probe into the tranny cooler 3/8" hard line. The one Autometer supplied wouldn't work.
 
it's worth mentioning that you need to ground the temp probe or it isn't going to work, i used a steel tee and soldered a wire to the side of it to get mine to work.
 
So I finally got around to finishing up this job and it was a little different than Grimm's so I figured I'd post up the finished product. Ran the lines to a B&M cooler mounted in front of the radiator instead to the rear window like the original post and a few different parts were used. The main difference is a 90* fitting won't work on the feed line coming out of the AW-4 because the dipstick is in the way. I used a 45* fitting to get around this.

photobucket-21295-1335048930667.jpg


For the cooler I ran an Auto meter 4357 trans temp gauge on the feed line right before the cooler. For the sender I used an Earl's bulkhead tee to for the 1/8" NPT temp sender.

photobucket-21121-1335050270713.jpg

photobucket-5355-1335049164000.jpg


Since the sender won''t ground off of the tee because of the rubber lines, I used a 3/8" ring terminal and some 5/16" washers as spacer in between the sender and the tee then grounded to the frame.

Here is a complete parts list, all fittings are from Earl's Store #1(thanks Tom):

2x 9919DFH (14mm to -6 adapter)
2x 176106 n(-6 Viton o-rings)
1x 709167 (-6 90* hose end)
1x 704667 (-6 45* hose end)
3x 165006 (-6 to 3/8" hard line tubing adapter - male)
1x 165106 (-6 to 3/8" hard line tubing adapter - female)
4x 700167 (-6 straight hose end)
1x 980406-1 (bulkhead tee 1/8" female)
 
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