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what to look out for on a used XJ?

jeepinrob

NAXJA Forum User
My wife and I are looking into purchasing a used XJ. At this point we will be an all Jeep family :D . Anyway, I'm thinking Cherokee Sport, probably '95ish. We want to spend about $5000 so we can do a little modification at the same time. I know we want the Chrysler rear end, 4.0, 5 speed, and I will run as fast as I can from anything with rust, but is there anything else I should know about?
Thanks!
 
You will have an 8.25" in a '95 and the only thing to be concerned about is the body. Anything else we will take care of here. XJ's are tough. Check the fluids and service records like any auto purchase. Good luck!
 
Rusted floors above the muffler and cat are often a problem, but Socorro, NM, is not exactly the heart of the rust belt, so this is probebly a non-issue for you. Just check it out as you would any used car -- look for things like black oil (if anyone is dumb enough to put a car up for sale without doing an oil change, you probably don't want to buy it), compression check, coolant color and condition, etc.
 
Just check your basic stuff that you'd look for, oil leaks, trans leaks, radiator fin condition, tranny fluid smell and color, signs of leaks inside, if there is alot of rust on an XJ a tell tale sign in most of them is it comes and stains throught the carpet so look for brown discolorings in the carpet. There are'nt really too many major things too look out for or worry about with an XJ they are tough and the drivetrain is pretty much bulletproof, unless the previous owner used it for target practice with an M-16 rifle than you will be ok.

Eric
 
thanks guys,
Everyting I've read and gathered from some of the jeep e-mail lists I'm on suggests that all the main drivetrain problems where before 91. I figured if there was anything else to look out for it would be mentioned here. I'm lucky enough to live out of the rust belt as Eagle puts it. I've had enough rust related problems with my CJ (from IL) to last me 10 lifetimes. A rust free rig is a must for me, especially with the XJ's unibody design. My CJ's frame and body are so shot I'm just going to have to go to a rock buggy set up with a homemade frame. Anyway, getting off-topic. I'll give anything we look at a good inspection like any other vehicle. We're putting my wife's 2001 Escort up for sale tomorrow and the minute we get rid of it we'll start searching for a good XJ. After that you'll see a LOT more of me around here :D They can't get rid of me on the IFSJA (International Full Size Jeep Association)site :D
 
gptherezonlyone said:
You will have an 8.25" in a '95 and the only thing to be concerned about is the body. Anything else we will take care of here. XJ's are tough. Check the fluids and service records like any auto purchase. Good luck!

Not unless it has ABS. Then it will have a D35. Also, I doubt this would be a problem witha 95ish rig but look for wear on the unibody seams.

Justin
 
Jeepinrob,

From what I have picked up over the years reading NAXJA and being the owner of a 88 XJ Pioneer is that the XJ that most of us have grown to know came in out in the 1987 Model year. This was the first year of the 4.0 fuel injected engine, the AW4 transmission, the NP 231 and NP 242 transfercase. I will admit there were pains with the manual transmission.

There is a distinctive difference in the 87-90 XJs because they had the Renix engine control. Things like fuel injectors, throttle position sensor, crankshaft position sensor are not common with the later XJs and with age the price either goes up or they may not be available. This series of XJ does have a knock sensor, which the later XJs do not have, which allows you to run 87 octane and not worry about knocking. As the owner there is no way to pull any error codes, you need the snap on reader or the dealer reader.

The 91 and later 4.0 XJs have the chrysler engine control which allows you to pull error codes but lacks a knock sensor. Seen posts on here people saying they have to run 89 octane to prevent knock. In 2000 they came out with the coil on plug ignition and some people say to avoid it.

The 87-90 4.0 engines are commonly referred to the non-HO engines since the 91 and later were advertised at the HO engine. The difference is the cam used, I read they traded off low end torque/power for higher HP for the ad brochure but someone may know more than me.

Chassis for the most part is the same from 84-96 and 97-01 were different from the earlier, the tell tail sign if the tail lights.

All the XJs had the Dana 30 front axle but depending on the year you could have the Dana 35, 44 or the Chrysler 8.25 axle.

I am not sure what you mean by the drive system problems were before 91 unless you are talking the manual transmission. Now there are countless posts on here about how the composite rotors warp. I know my 88 XJ has solid rotors, I think composite rotors were a chrysler "better idea". I plan on keeping my XJ because of the rotors and it has a knock sensor.

If you are looking for the triangle vent window the earlier XJs had them, not sure when the fixed triangle became the only way you could get an XJ.

I think most people think of a 4.0 power when you say Cherokee, with that in mind the 87 was the first of the breed and every following was just refinements on the 87 XJ.

Martin
 
thanks martin. When I refered to all the drivetrain problems being worked out before 91, I was refering to the 2.8L V6 and the Peugot transmission that I have heard can be problematic. That being said, I guess all that stuff went away in 87 huh? I picked 91 since that's when the engine's where "upgraded". I just assumed the 91 and up engines were better, now I see it as more of a trade off. I'll make sure to inspect those rotors for warping too.
Thanks for the info,
Rob
 
Jeepinrob,

I know the Peugot transmission was used on the early 4.0 XJs, not sure what year they went to the current manual transmission.

Someone with a later XJ can tell you about the recall on the composite rotors, but something tells me they started to use them in 90 or 91. There have been people who convered their later XJs to the knuckle, hub, rotor, and caliper my 88 XJ uses to get rid of the warping rotor problem.

Just FYI the AW4 is the same auto transmission used in the toyota landcruiser. I think the growth in HP for the HO was 13 HP. There are more aftermarket performance stuff for the HO engine like throttle body spacers. The non-HO had a high alt CPS which gives you more advance which means more power at lower altitudes.

Martin
 
jeepinrob said:
Justin, could you please elaborate? Any seams in particular? Am I just looking for failing welds?

Mainly look at the seams where the body meets the frame. I have seen ones already that look like the body is peeling off the frame at certain spots.

Justin
 
96Classic said:
Mainly look at the seams where the body meets the frame. I have seen ones already that look like the body is peeling off the frame at certain spots.

Justin

Justin, on the XJ, there is no such thing as a place where the "body meets the frame". I think what you are trying to describe is where the pinch weld seams are beginning to swell due to rusting between the two (or more) layers of sheet metal.

This would, of course, be indicative of other issues with body, and would be visible in terms of general rust in all seams, welds, etc.

As others pointed out, a Jeep from around Socorro, NM, is not likely to see much rust, especially with one as new (?) as a '95.
 
Yes Jeff thats exactly what I meant. I couldnt think of another way to describe it. But I have seen some that were just terrible. Yea and like I also said, it's probably not an issue witha 95 rig.
 
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