trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Congrats man. Awesome spot. Is that in Montrose?
Congrats man. Awesome spot. Is that in Montrose?
-
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Colorado B/S Thread
- Thread starter in4aride
- Start date
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Nah I thought it was a Seinfeld moment... "you can't talk to Jimmy" .
Nah I thought it was a Seinfeld moment... "you can't talk to Jimmy" .
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Looking at sway bars either Currie or ruffstuff... the ruffstuff is pretty steep at about $1000 total but it is extremely well made ,but the Currie at about $500 would probably do the job for me in the rear for added roll control on side hill... anyone have first hand experience with the Currie as far as it lasting without fixing it ?
I may not put one on as I still may not need it as I think some of my side hill body lean is possible leaks in the ORI strut lower chambers as they lose pressure after flexing pretty quick and an over night sit after full charge shows a 50 psi drop on the rears , so I'm going to either send them or try my hand at a first time rebuild, which they don't look very difficult , but I kinda want to send the used ones in from the flop shop so I can see if they have all the updated to the lower rebound I also may have 16 inch tubes put in them ... they are 18s this gives more time on the nitrogen stage without pulling oil when running little chrome .
Anywho I want a predictable side hill experience so if the struts alone don't do it a sway bar will go on I'm less concerned about 5ft of flex and more so about traction and control .
Looking at sway bars either Currie or ruffstuff... the ruffstuff is pretty steep at about $1000 total but it is extremely well made ,but the Currie at about $500 would probably do the job for me in the rear for added roll control on side hill... anyone have first hand experience with the Currie as far as it lasting without fixing it ?
I may not put one on as I still may not need it as I think some of my side hill body lean is possible leaks in the ORI strut lower chambers as they lose pressure after flexing pretty quick and an over night sit after full charge shows a 50 psi drop on the rears , so I'm going to either send them or try my hand at a first time rebuild, which they don't look very difficult , but I kinda want to send the used ones in from the flop shop so I can see if they have all the updated to the lower rebound I also may have 16 inch tubes put in them ... they are 18s this gives more time on the nitrogen stage without pulling oil when running little chrome .
Anywho I want a predictable side hill experience so if the struts alone don't do it a sway bar will go on I'm less concerned about 5ft of flex and more so about traction and control .
xj-grin
NAXJA Member #1096
- Location
- Colorado Springs, Colorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Arrowhead golf course near Roxborough Park in SW Denver metro. I texted Mike yesterday that my much better 1/2 and I were hitched at exactly that same spot 20 years ago. Cheers, Mike :cheers:
Arrowhead golf course near Roxborough Park in SW Denver metro. I texted Mike yesterday that my much better 1/2 and I were hitched at exactly that same spot 20 years ago. Cheers, Mike :cheers:
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Going to have to buy a 2nd new nitrogen regulator since the FedEx shipping used by the merchant makes pony express look like a faster option as the item was shipped from New Jersey went to western Ohio then back to Pennsylvania then to Atlanta GA where it sits now ... I can't see how one could ship an item any slower ?
Going to have to buy a 2nd new nitrogen regulator since the FedEx shipping used by the merchant makes pony express look like a faster option as the item was shipped from New Jersey went to western Ohio then back to Pennsylvania then to Atlanta GA where it sits now ... I can't see how one could ship an item any slower ?
The Colorado BS thread
Yep. Great minds think alike. We were trying to do CB originally but was a logistical nightmare with family from out of state. Worked out well there. Plus the golf wasn’t half bad.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yep. Great minds think alike. We were trying to do CB originally but was a logistical nightmare with family from out of state. Worked out well there. Plus the golf wasn’t half bad.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Any one near Colorado Springs interesting in helping a lady with a 97 jeep cherokee , 4.0 that needs some jeep help?
I have been helping her over the phone, and I can bring you up to date, the rig is parked at a church where she she works out of, as a social worker helping homeless votes. She is not made of money, Dad is Florida with Parkinsons, grand father is in another state and blind, and she is an army brat...
IF we are lucky it just needs the battery recharged and starter replaced....
I have a thread on the main forum forum where several of us have been discussing it. She had a friend help 2 days ago, but he is not available.
We are hoping the new Durajunk starter was defective.
With ignition off, the starter is still drawing current telling me the solenoid/guts are seized and draining the new battery.
At worse, some thing is the engine is binding and keeping it from turning, and overloaded the starter in two start attempts, first was 3-4 seconds. second 2 seconds. Last try the starter dead headed engine stopped rotating under full load. Over the night the battery nearly died (Thus the battery drain, which she located with my help, turned out to be the starter itself drawing power....
Thanks!!!
Any one near Colorado Springs interesting in helping a lady with a 97 jeep cherokee , 4.0 that needs some jeep help?
I have been helping her over the phone, and I can bring you up to date, the rig is parked at a church where she she works out of, as a social worker helping homeless votes. She is not made of money, Dad is Florida with Parkinsons, grand father is in another state and blind, and she is an army brat...
IF we are lucky it just needs the battery recharged and starter replaced....
I have a thread on the main forum forum where several of us have been discussing it. She had a friend help 2 days ago, but he is not available.
We are hoping the new Durajunk starter was defective.
With ignition off, the starter is still drawing current telling me the solenoid/guts are seized and draining the new battery.
At worse, some thing is the engine is binding and keeping it from turning, and overloaded the starter in two start attempts, first was 3-4 seconds. second 2 seconds. Last try the starter dead headed engine stopped rotating under full load. Over the night the battery nearly died (Thus the battery drain, which she located with my help, turned out to be the starter itself drawing power....
Thanks!!!
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Not near the Springs , but I don't have an issue with kicking in some cash for parts.
Not near the Springs , but I don't have an issue with kicking in some cash for parts.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
And it's confirmed the brand new set of struts are defective on arrival .I've had issue with then during cycling suspension with no charge and today I finally decided to play with the rebound dampening adjuster and found the driver side strut just keeps turning so it broke right outta the box . I will pull them and drop them off when in salt lake they should be fixed under warranty as it is factory defective . The rears if needing work will cost me I am considering re holding them at home just in case this becomes common place .
And it's confirmed the brand new set of struts are defective on arrival .I've had issue with then during cycling suspension with no charge and today I finally decided to play with the rebound dampening adjuster and found the driver side strut just keeps turning so it broke right outta the box . I will pull them and drop them off when in salt lake they should be fixed under warranty as it is factory defective . The rears if needing work will cost me I am considering re holding them at home just in case this becomes common place .
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Re: The Colorado BS thread
I was not able to get a direct run down from the guys that did the work, I was tied up, and the second hand translation was too garbled to be of any use
as to what all they actually did or did not do. That said, the engine itself seemed to be fine. She was driving it again.
The oil filter threads were stripped/cross threaded and it had already leaked on the new starter. They got it back on right/square and told her to buy a new one right away and change it.
And they "super charged the battery with a portable field rig", and did not, I am told, did not replace the starter or battery.
Maybe the Cloaked JeepRimlins went back into stealth mode. If it throws an engine gut part in a few days???? or not, Who knows.
We all know these rigs like to play hit and run tag games.
I can not trust the rest of what I was told second hand, to mean anything useful for now. She mentioned something about their saying the distributor... being too tight, but she was not sure she had the right part name (ugh). She may get a paper run down on what they did. If she does I will try to get a copy. We are all curious what they did. One of the guys owned a repair shop but was Ford person, and said I saved him hours with my feedback and run down before they started.
They did test the engine for rotation at the crank shaft, at my request first. It passed! It is 98 Grand Cherokee.
Some friends of friends, mechanics got her running for now.
Thanks!!!
I was not able to get a direct run down from the guys that did the work, I was tied up, and the second hand translation was too garbled to be of any use
as to what all they actually did or did not do. That said, the engine itself seemed to be fine. She was driving it again.
The oil filter threads were stripped/cross threaded and it had already leaked on the new starter. They got it back on right/square and told her to buy a new one right away and change it.
And they "super charged the battery with a portable field rig", and did not, I am told, did not replace the starter or battery.
Maybe the Cloaked JeepRimlins went back into stealth mode. If it throws an engine gut part in a few days???? or not, Who knows.
We all know these rigs like to play hit and run tag games.
I can not trust the rest of what I was told second hand, to mean anything useful for now. She mentioned something about their saying the distributor... being too tight, but she was not sure she had the right part name (ugh). She may get a paper run down on what they did. If she does I will try to get a copy. We are all curious what they did. One of the guys owned a repair shop but was Ford person, and said I saved him hours with my feedback and run down before they started.
They did test the engine for rotation at the crank shaft, at my request first. It passed! It is 98 Grand Cherokee.
Some friends of friends, mechanics got her running for now.
Thanks!!!
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- Location
- In a strange land
Re: The Colorado BS thread
I replaced the original fuel pump with 94k on it back in October 2012 with a unit from oriellys this was alleged to carry a lifetime warranty...lol... well recently after idling for about 10 minutes my xj would start to stumble, miss and want to stall like it was low on fuel , so I suspected the pump . This pump already had a failed tank level sender and the pickup tube screen fell off , so I figured try to redeem the warranty since the unit is 7 years old but had less than 6 months of average daily driver use a pump would usually see for run time . Upon calling oriellys they say they don't carry that brand of pump anymore... airtex I believe... so I'm SOL... But I could buy one they currently carry and those will carry a lifetime warranty...lol... yeah until it dies and they find a reason it's not covered.
So I decided to see what cutting the middle man out gets for price drops on this part ...oriellys gets $200 for a pump and you can get one on EBay for $35 shipped . The pump arrived and looks no different quality wise than the $200 pump sold at oriellys. A quick drop in of the pump and the idle issues are gone , I think for the price I'm going to pick up a spare pump to go along with my spare power steering pump .
I also priced Map sensor and the IAC at oriellys these were $85 for their standard ignition brand map and $about $75 for their IAC standard ignition brand...lol... on line you can get a map sensor for about $15 and the IAC for $12 ... shipped...I took a trip to oriellys to compare the map and IAC I bought online...lol... they look identical . I can see a mark up but it seems many parts stores are marking up 100-150% on many items...lol... unless I need the part that day I certainly ain't paying that mark up especially when parts on EBay honor their warranty better than a parts store.
I replaced the original fuel pump with 94k on it back in October 2012 with a unit from oriellys this was alleged to carry a lifetime warranty...lol... well recently after idling for about 10 minutes my xj would start to stumble, miss and want to stall like it was low on fuel , so I suspected the pump . This pump already had a failed tank level sender and the pickup tube screen fell off , so I figured try to redeem the warranty since the unit is 7 years old but had less than 6 months of average daily driver use a pump would usually see for run time . Upon calling oriellys they say they don't carry that brand of pump anymore... airtex I believe... so I'm SOL... But I could buy one they currently carry and those will carry a lifetime warranty...lol... yeah until it dies and they find a reason it's not covered.
So I decided to see what cutting the middle man out gets for price drops on this part ...oriellys gets $200 for a pump and you can get one on EBay for $35 shipped . The pump arrived and looks no different quality wise than the $200 pump sold at oriellys. A quick drop in of the pump and the idle issues are gone , I think for the price I'm going to pick up a spare pump to go along with my spare power steering pump .
I also priced Map sensor and the IAC at oriellys these were $85 for their standard ignition brand map and $about $75 for their IAC standard ignition brand...lol... on line you can get a map sensor for about $15 and the IAC for $12 ... shipped...I took a trip to oriellys to compare the map and IAC I bought online...lol... they look identical . I can see a mark up but it seems many parts stores are marking up 100-150% on many items...lol... unless I need the part that day I certainly ain't paying that mark up especially when parts on EBay honor their warranty better than a parts store.
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- Location
- In the islands
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Are those online parts used?
A few days ago I bought a used power steering pump pulley for my 1994 Toyota Pickup for $40.00 dollars shipped. No place else I could get one for less than $145.00. Shopping online has its advantages but leave me a bit anxious until I have the item in my hand.
Are those online parts used?
A few days ago I bought a used power steering pump pulley for my 1994 Toyota Pickup for $40.00 dollars shipped. No place else I could get one for less than $145.00. Shopping online has its advantages but leave me a bit anxious until I have the item in my hand.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Nope ... the pump is brand new as were the throttle body parts . Good example of price diffetence are the unit bearing SKF hubs for my dodge NAPA and oriellys get $297 online is $120 You can buy them as a pair online for less than one one In the parts store .
Nope ... the pump is brand new as were the throttle body parts . Good example of price diffetence are the unit bearing SKF hubs for my dodge NAPA and oriellys get $297 online is $120 You can buy them as a pair online for less than one one In the parts store .
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
Re: The Colorado BS thread
There are a number of ways to look for and find complaints and reputations and customer feedback on various parts and suppliers. I use them all. Started out buying used stuff online in 200, Labx, ebay, and others for work, research lab parts, equipment, materials, and vehicle parts.... art supplies for my daughter and so on. 95% of my purchases have been online the last 5 years. I have even bought $3.50 MAP sensors and $12 TPS for Renix 4.0s from China, that work just fine. I was forced to buy OEM GM parts twice for a Saturn, as the water pump and auto belt tensioners aftermarket just do not last. A lot depends on brand and source.
The savings can be huge!!! I used to be Durjunks best customer. I buy almost nothing from them now.
There are a number of ways to look for and find complaints and reputations and customer feedback on various parts and suppliers. I use them all. Started out buying used stuff online in 200, Labx, ebay, and others for work, research lab parts, equipment, materials, and vehicle parts.... art supplies for my daughter and so on. 95% of my purchases have been online the last 5 years. I have even bought $3.50 MAP sensors and $12 TPS for Renix 4.0s from China, that work just fine. I was forced to buy OEM GM parts twice for a Saturn, as the water pump and auto belt tensioners aftermarket just do not last. A lot depends on brand and source.
The savings can be huge!!! I used to be Durjunks best customer. I buy almost nothing from them now.
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Looking to mount a rear sway bar the struts are kinda in the way as they would be getting very close to the sway bar arms when drooped and close to frame. This has me asking this question is there any reason I can't mount the sway bar axle side mounts off center of the axle tube by this I mean more forward and over the lower link mount brackets rather than right over axle tube center. This would clearance the struts and be out of the way . I I'll be doing the sway bar along side reworking my upper strut mounts out a few inches , but the sway bar will be first to see if I can live with the side hill body lean after the sway bar . My lower mounts are out pretty far but I'm not satisfied with body lean on side hill and I have too move the uppers out a good few inches which should give the struts more control over the weight. It drives down the road at 55 no problem and works well but I just want more stability when one side of rig has bit h tires up on something at once .
Looking to mount a rear sway bar the struts are kinda in the way as they would be getting very close to the sway bar arms when drooped and close to frame. This has me asking this question is there any reason I can't mount the sway bar axle side mounts off center of the axle tube by this I mean more forward and over the lower link mount brackets rather than right over axle tube center. This would clearance the struts and be out of the way . I I'll be doing the sway bar along side reworking my upper strut mounts out a few inches , but the sway bar will be first to see if I can live with the side hill body lean after the sway bar . My lower mounts are out pretty far but I'm not satisfied with body lean on side hill and I have too move the uppers out a good few inches which should give the struts more control over the weight. It drives down the road at 55 no problem and works well but I just want more stability when one side of rig has bit h tires up on something at once .
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freerider15
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FoCo, Crawlorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Mine work great:
Also, after a week in Hurricane, UT...
Sand Hollow makes pretty much all CO trails (outside of maybe Boulder Canyon) look like child's play.
Mine work great:
Also, after a week in Hurricane, UT...
Sand Hollow makes pretty much all CO trails (outside of maybe Boulder Canyon) look like child's play.
freerider15
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- FoCo, Crawlorado
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Oops...picture is large but can't edit...
Oops...picture is large but can't edit...
Re: The Colorado BS thread
The picture posted wouldn't represent the scenario that I'm looking at improving one side of the rig both tires on the high side of a steep slope the body lean more than I'd like . Tuning has solved the sticking and staying in that leaned position but I think to be solved completely I will need a sway bar . I still have room to move the top side of the mounts out a few inches without tire contact , which is a couple weekends of cutting the tops off moving them out and welding it back up and cleaning it up to not show it was cut up .
https://youtu.be/vPu88wxe3AE
This obstacle is the kind of both tires up on a high side that I'm talking about ... infact I took this same line on coils and prothane inserts with no real body lean or side unload back in 2017 ... this jeep is set up close . But this is what I'd like to get more stability on that I'm currently seeing with the struts. They work great every where else and ,combined with the wheelbase and stickys it gets traction... everywhere...now
The picture posted wouldn't represent the scenario that I'm looking at improving one side of the rig both tires on the high side of a steep slope the body lean more than I'd like . Tuning has solved the sticking and staying in that leaned position but I think to be solved completely I will need a sway bar . I still have room to move the top side of the mounts out a few inches without tire contact , which is a couple weekends of cutting the tops off moving them out and welding it back up and cleaning it up to not show it was cut up .
https://youtu.be/vPu88wxe3AE
This obstacle is the kind of both tires up on a high side that I'm talking about ... infact I took this same line on coils and prothane inserts with no real body lean or side unload back in 2017 ... this jeep is set up close . But this is what I'd like to get more stability on that I'm currently seeing with the struts. They work great every where else and ,combined with the wheelbase and stickys it gets traction... everywhere...now
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trippled
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- colorado springs, co
Re: The Colorado BS thread
Good pic. I want to go out there bad. So many trails....
How did the new setup work out?
Good pic. I want to go out there bad. So many trails....
How did the new setup work out?
