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Rust treatment

Joshman3280

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Reno
Hey everyone! I have a 92 xj with some serious rust issues, I am trying to find a possible rust converter or way to treat it. I have been looking at the Eastwood rust converter. Any thoughts are appreciated. It to treat rear quarter panels.
 
If it's not too bad you can do POR15 with embedded fiberglass (they call it power mesh but as far as I can tell it's just chop strand mat).

1) Degrease
2) Metal Prep (POR15's rust converter)
3) POR15
4) Embed glass while wet and paint over
5) Topcoat if exposed to UV
 
best way to treat rust is to completely remove it.

Ideally yes. However, if it isn't too far gone the rust converter works great if done properly. I've used it several times with great results. I'd recommend the brush on stuff since you really need to saturate the rust in order for it to neutralize all of it. You'll wait several days for it to do it's thing, and then top coat with a good primer/paint otherwise it will start rusting again.

I LOVE Eastwood's inner frame rail coating. The extension nozzle makes it easy. It is something every XJ that wants to live should receive. It is expensive, but well worth it.
 
Muriatic acid works too, so does phospheric acid. I use it on boat water exhaust parts. That's basically all the rust converter stuff is but rebadged and the price is tripled. Other than that I'd sand/media blast and remove it. Anything less and it WILL come back.
 
Muriatic acid works too, so does phospheric acid. I use it on boat water exhaust parts. That's basically all the rust converter stuff is but rebadged and the price is tripled. Other than that I'd sand/media blast and remove it. Anything less and it WILL come back.

Nope, sorry, but the Loctite product I linked is a $300/gallon catalyzed organic polymer coating, actually a monomer that is catalyzed by exposure to oxidized iron, aka RUST, and converts the rust to a stable organic polymer primer.

Muriatic acid (aka Hydrochloric acid) just dissolves rust, while Phosphoric acid will actually form a bit of an iron phosphate coating-primer. Both need to be thoroughly rinsed off after use, to stop the acid from eating the steel.

The Loctite coating is not rinsed off, it can top coated to extend its life with a UV resistant top coat. But the surface does need to be oil and grease and loose dirt free before you brush on the Loctite coating.
 
I was more referring to the Eastwood's and rust-mort type products that there are. If you don't remove rust it will come back no matter how much you spend on any type of product. Rust forms in many layers and getting that loctite product to be absorbed by all layers is impossible. Yes you can use it and the top layer will be converted but there is still rust underneath that will spread unless it's removed.
 
I was more referring to the Eastwood's and rust-mort type products that there are. If you don't remove rust it will come back no matter how much you spend on any type of product. Rust forms in many layers and getting that loctite product to be absorbed by all layers is impossible. Yes you can use it and the top layer will be converted but there is still rust underneath that will spread unless it's removed.

I first used it on a badly rusted area of a 1978 Dodge station wagon, and caulked over/into to seal the treated rust holes and then painted over it, and had no rust return for the last 12 years I had the SW. Put over 400,000 miles on that beast. No paint job lasts forever either but the rust stop outlasted the rig.
 
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RIDGID-R3002-Reciprocating-Saw.jpg
 
What I've done for customers that don't want to spend cash to cut out rust is fiberglass over it. Like way over it into fresh metal. I still remove most of the rust though.
 
Doing some digging for SDS sheets and ingredients. This one has formic acid in it!!!! Very interesting. I may try some.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPI0R8/ref=psdc_15718511_t1_B000BKC25K

One I have not tried yet that has high ratings is made by a well know industrial coating manufacturer, Valspar and it has Tannin (Tannic acid) in it. Both have a latex monomer that polymerizes as the rust is turned into what one calls magnetite in some info I located. The third one has barium sulfate, a common industrial marine coating additive. The rest of the secret sauce was not listed on the SDS sheets :(

Iron is a Fentons agent catalyst and a great catalyst for reactions and they seem to be using to polymerize the latex while secret sauce reacts and converts the rust to a stable oxide.

One note: Heavy pitted, loose rust needs to cleaned down and removed as well as possible before use. The Plastikote product seems to claim it was made for automotive use.

This is the product, brand I originally used back in the 1980s.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81849-Treatment-10-25-Aerosol/dp/B000BKC25K

They look and act the same.
 
Here is a before and after with Loctite.

Here is what I started with on the passenger side.

20170402130557-efb7659c-xl.jpg


After the rust neutralizer that EcoMike recommended (Loctite).

20170408132648-3550f84c-xl.jpg


Mid paint, I had some exact match Duplicolor.

20170408132653-2ff06ea8-xl.jpg


And done, there was no rust under the sound mat (I checked), so I left it.

20170408132657-a61923f8-xl.jpg
 
I have had good luck with POR 15, gonna tackle some spots on my XJ with it soon.
 
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