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3" Lift what do you need?

Greenspan

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Los Angeles
Apologies since this has been probably asked before. 98 XJ Upcountry looking to get it lifted, was going to do 2", now thinking biting the bullet and going to 3"

I do a lot of freeway driving and this is more of an overlander vehicle so that is why I am not going crazy with the lift. 31" is the max tire size I would go because I don't want to have to regear.

Always liked the RE 3.5" kit but also looking at the BDS suspension 3" Kit (http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma=7&mo=29&ty=38&yr=1987-2001). The BDS kit has a lot of customizable options that the RE Kit doesn't have like:

- Steering Stablizer
- Fixed or Adjustable UCA
- Adjustable LCA (RE Kit Comes with Fixed LCAs)
- Adjustable Track Bar
- Front Brake Lines

Do I really need any of these? I'm willing to spend the money if it's the right thing to do, but I don't want to waste money. I kinda like the idea of upgrading the stock Steering Stabilizer, but the others I don't really have a good idea if they should be done for 3" lift.

The BDS is a better deal so I'd probably go with them, but unfortunately they only have AAL which I know doesn't always do the job of new leaf packs. Could buy a new set of stock leaf packs and just AAL to there?

Also, am I going to need a SYE for 3"?
 
I would definitely budget for a SYE.
 
No lift is complete, but some do have more essential parts than others.

Budget for an SYE. At 3 inches of lift, adjustable control arms are not necessary. Longer fixed lower control arms and stock uppers will be fine. Most track bars for lifted Cherokees are adjustable. At the frame side, a double shear set up and heavy duty mount is better than the tie end type track bars. If you are going to install new leaf springs, you might as well buy lift kit leaf springs.
 
this chart is widely considered to be accurate

VDdfGop.jpg


IMO the SYE and LCAs are required for a 3" lift
 
More wrong than right, but.....

what year
what trans
what x-f
what axle

I'm at 5.5" with stock steering.
 
Be careful with fixed LCAs. On my 94 @ ~3.5", 0-6" fixed LCAs push the axle forward enough that the coil spring rubs against the track bar bracket on the frame. That I just live with. It requires relocation brackets to move the sway bar forward to keep it out of everything. Also needed a longer driveshaft since it has the 242, which sits back 1/2" while using the same driveshaft length as the 231. I have adjustable UCAs. Wish I had rotated the Cs.

Neither one of my XJs kept their steering stabilizer after being unbolted the first time. I prefer highway driving without one with 31" MTs. I did get a solid bar steering link but otherwise stock geometry.

Stainless braid reinforced brake lines typically make a noticeable performance improvement and could possibly be considered a must have upgrade to any performance enthusiast's vehicle. Two birds with one stone.

For the rear, the first thing on your list should be shackle relocation brackets. Smooth as butter with Crown Upcountry 1" leafs, lift shackles and lift-style brackets. Using a thick plate on top of the leaf spring retainer plate that extends inward under the bumpstop. Any kit without shackle relocation brackets will require changes, unless you use the no-lift style. I prefer the lift style myself (HD Offroad Engineering in particular).

Next thing to think about with 31s is brakes. Rear discs are a worthwhile upgrade. I'm using $70 price range towing pads front and rear.

2" won't require most of this jazz, but it's only 1" higher than you are now. My next set of tires might be 30s since I could use a little more gear, even with 4.10s and AW4. 31s are a PITA for what they require if you truly don't need them. If it weren't for me getting axles with 4.10s, it would have been easier to go 4-4.5", 4.56 and fit tires to that.
 
I would definitely budget for a SYE.

I'll second that.

I have a '99 Upcountry that I just lifted (4") and the SYE was an absolute must. I ordered an AA SYE through Rusty's Offroad as a kit with a Tom Wood drive shaft. Once the SYE is in, you'll need shims to angle the rear axle stub up toward the transfer case (to straighten out the CV drive shaft).

You may also need:
- Longer (or adjustable) upper and lower control arms
- New shock mounts (once you rotate the rear axle)
 
If you are building an overland rig and plan on DD it. Why not just get your wheel and tires first? I'd go 30" BFG KO2 and trim a little on the inner fender. Do a sway bar disconnect and bump stop as needed. If you need more clearance then do a budget boost. If you stay with a 30" tire you can keep a full size spare in the factory location. Once you hit the 3" lift you need to start looking at a lot of other things.
 
I did the RE 3.5" kit on my 98. I also run 31's. I could have and still want to do the SYE, but a t-case drop got rid of drive-line vibes. I got the add a leaf for the rear and they worked for a few years, but my springs were probably already shot so it was flexing too much too easy. The RE spring packs came up on amazon last year for like $115 each so I did that and it rides a ton better. I have not had any issues with the kit itself, installed it myself and even fudged and didn't add extended front brake lines for a while with no issues. I was also shooting for an overland type build and it is my DD.
 
I have a 99 and wanted an easy 2" lift. Got a RE 2" AAL and added it to new OEM leaf springs (definitely the long way around...). Overall, after letting it settle, it lifted the back just over 3" but the front only 2". It was noticeable and I ended up liking the 3" more than I thought. Instead of going cheap, and knowing I was putting on a front bumper and roof rack, I went with the OME springs for the Grand Cherokee. Love it! I added a steering stabilizer and spaced the TC down with washers (not needed, but as a precaution). I run BFG 29's right now until they run low. Planning to get LCA's and Adjustable Track Bar (again, not actually needed, but to beef it up).

All XJ's are different. Mine didn't need a SYE, track bar, UCA's, LCA's, and I can run it in the mountains or down the highway. Some people get crazy wobble though. I'd stick with a kit with all new springs (if you can afford it, go OME) and shocks and get the other items as needed. No need to get a kit with items you may never use/need. not to mention, piece-mealing it means you get to know what works and what doesn't and you don't feel like you have to do all the work at once.

If I had it all to do over again, I'd get OME coils and shocks all around, RE or OME 3" leaf springs and an OME or RE steering stabilizer. Wait and see how that works, then purchase other things.
 
If you are building an overland rig and plan on DD it. Why not just get your wheel and tires first? I'd go 30" BFG KO2 and trim a little on the inner fender. Do a sway bar disconnect and bump stop as needed. If you need more clearance then do a budget boost. If you stay with a 30" tire you can keep a full size spare in the factory location. Once you hit the 3" lift you need to start looking at a lot of other things.

Yeah, I think this makes the most sense for me. I think 30" tires will be sufficient, going up to 31" and 3" lift seems like a lot of additional effort/cost for an additional inch (regear and SYE). I'm okay replacing the suspension with a 2" lift instead of a budget boost, the suspension on there now is 20yrs old, and 2" lifts do not cost much. I'd rather trim later if it's needed.
 
Just remember, cheap lit kits are cheap for a reason.

I went OME, and have never regretted it - got 15 years out of that 2inch kit before I finally killed one of the leaves, and I got into (and out of) a LOT of stuff with that kit. Always rode and flexed great. When the springs finally did die, I stuck with OME (though I did go from the 2-inch medium-duty stuff to the heavy-duty (which got me a little more height) this time.
 
Just remember, cheap lit kits are cheap for a reason.

I went OME, and have never regretted it - got 15 years out of that 2inch kit before I finally killed one of the leaves, and I got into (and out of) a LOT of stuff with that kit. Always rode and flexed great. When the springs finally did die, I stuck with OME (though I did go from the 2-inch medium-duty stuff to the heavy-duty (which got me a little more height) this time.

Where do you get OME 2" lifts these days? I only can 3" lifts available.
 
I bought my 2-inch OME kit in 2005, so not sure. Was XJ medium-duty springs at the time.

About a year ago was when I got what I thought was the OME 2" heavy-load version, and got about 4" out of the rear. Had to dial my ACOS out a bit to level it, even with the matching front coils (I run a cradle winch on trails, so wanted to reduce sag).

Used to be around here I'd see people say to contact Dirk at DPG for OME stuff, but that was a while ago.

3" OME wouldn't be a bad choice either. I ran my old 2" kit with spacers and 1" lift shackles for 4-5 years before the replacement last year and it was perfectly stable on-road.
 
Interesting - I'm sitting at what I think is 4.5 now, and I just have a 1" tcase drop and the original driveshafts. Then again, I have a '92...
 
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