HELP! no start after bottom end rebuild

Short version:
I have a no start after a lower end rebuild.
Engine turns over, has fire, has compression, has fuel pressure. It occasionally pops back through the throttle body when trying to start.

Longer version:

I have a Golen stroker circa 2007 currently (not)running in a 2000 XJ.
Engine was pulled running from this jeep with a minor lower end knock.

Upon inspection the timing cover tabs had broken off, allowing the rubber bumper thingy and the tabs themselves to make their way into the bearings.

Crank was turned .010 under to a total .020 under and re-installed with Clevite 77 bearings.

I decided to install a Hesco aluminum head i had left from another jeep project. The head was pulled from a running jeep engine.

I upgraded to 784 fuel injectors pulled from the junkyard. I have several sets of injectors from other jeeps/strokers/LT1s. I have tried a couple of different injectors, I don't believe that's the issue.

I installed a new aftermarket timing cover, Cloyes double roller timing set, and rubber timing bushing thingy. When this first started, I assumed that I had made a mistake on the timing. I have pulled the cover, and checked. I even took a stock timing set and installed it to ensure I wasn't misunderstanding the new set. No timing issues.

I previously changed the ignition to the Dodge Viper coil and plug wires. Upon advice from a friend, I put a coil rail on just to make sure we hadn't mixed plug wire. No change.


At this point i'm stumped. I've never had one go so well and end so wrong. I'll take any advice, or answer questions.

No question or suggestion too silly.

Thanks

If it's popping back through the intake timing must be off

I had the same thought. I pulled the cover and got a picture.
https://imgur.com/nlqYB0b

Also,

I forgot to add. Pulled the valve cover and checked. No bent pushrods. All valves move.

Did you check your grounds?

Several times. That had bitten me on past jobs. As far as I can tell, all grounds are clean and tight. I chased the threads on every place that got painted

You could still be 180* off, have you verified the valve timing. Plus you have 3 sets of crankshaft timing marks, do know which is which?

Valve timing looks good.

Will recheck cam sensor drive for 180 again.

The three marks are for advance or retard. The round mark/ keyway is stock timing. I checked after the fact by installing the old, working timing set. No movement from stock timing set to the way it sits now.

bigdaddyjlove said:

Valve timing looks good.

Will recheck cam sensor drive for 180 again.

The three marks are for advance or retard. The round mark/ keyway is stock timing. I checked after the fact by installing the old, working timing set. No movement from stock timing set to the way it sits now.

Click to expand...

Your 180 off at the distributor, now the cam.

Do you know how to index a distributor?

Unfortunately about 20 times. I've had this engine in a Renix, an early HO, a 98, and now this 2000. 2000 doesn't have a distributor. Has a van sensor on the oil pump drive which controls fuel. The spark is controlled by the crank sensor.

Let me make sure I understand what you are saying.

180 at the cam? If the marks line, the cam is timed. With the stock timing set up there is no way to line up the marks and have the cam timing off. The aftermarket set has been checked 3 times. Original build, after I started having issues I disassembled down to the timing, and by a third party with no foreknowledge. I didn't want to tell him what I thought.

I'm pretty confident on the camshaft timing.

I've rechecked the cam oil pump drive / distributor twice since rechecking the engine timing. Procedure is to put the engine to top dead center and line the witness holes on the sensor up. Usually
Use a paperclip or a very small drill bit to align.

It's on the list to recheck in daylight. I could be off on it, but the late models will give you a cam/ crank disagree code if they are not right. So far, nothing.

bigdaddyjlove said:

180 at the cam? If the marks line, the cam is timed. With the stock timing set up there is no way to line up the marks and have the cam timing off. The aftermarket set has been checked 3 times.

Click to expand...

Wrong, the crankshaft spins twice for every revolution of the cam. Have you actually "verified" that "both" valves are closed when the #1 piston is at TDC?

I retract that statement, I had to sit down and read what I said, "only the distributor" can be installed 180* out.

Agreed. I'll recheck tomorrow after work.

Thanks for the input. I'm certain I'm missing something obvious and I'm going to feel pretty foolish. I can live with foolish if it runs.

UPDATE: It Runs!

Its been quite a while, with me only able to work on this once in a while.

To make a (very) long story short, the aftermarket harmonic balancer I purchased was manufactured incorrectly. The TDC mark was about 45 degrees off from where it should be.

Big mixture of frustration and relief that I have this sorted out now.


Thanks for everyone who made suggestions on this.

That'll throw things off!

No kidding. I must have checked the synchronizer timing 10 times. I finally was checking top dead center with a chopstick and started to question my sanity.

bigdaddyjlove said:

No kidding. I must have checked the synchronizer timing 10 times. I finally was checking top dead center with a chopstick and started to question my sanity.

Click to expand...

good catch, not easy to diagnose