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Steering Gear Box

Continuing with the thread hi-jack...
More info concerning Durango snow plow vs. non-snow plow...apparently the non-snow plow box has an "83" cast on the housing.

https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/1997-dodge-dakota-durango-non-snow-plow/

If you buy a remanufactured box check the sector shaft for lateral play (not sure how out of the vehicle, maybe mount in a vice and wiggle pitman arm up/down/all around). The reman one I bought a few yrs ago had excessive lateral slop and now I'm looking for another one (after going through the hassle of drilling for hydro assist).
 
At the wrecker I had three to choose from. One had really dark burnt smelling fluid, the other two had clean fluid, I took the one from the cleanest looking truck of those two.

To really check, read the rebuild part of manual. Note they give specification for turning torque, a beam torque wrench makes this easy to read. gear play, i.e. backlash is also specified, and of course shaft play needs checking. Bad shaft play can be detected if really bad if installed, but lesser wear probably requires the gear box disconnected to really determine how bad or good the play is.

Have some proper pullers with you when you go to the wrecker, some times the pitman can be stubborn to pull off. A torch can help loosen tight ones, but many yards do not allow open flames.

keep in mind at the wrecker the steering maybe locked, making access possibly more difficult.
I think I had to pull the battery tray or power module out to gain access to some bolts. It was a bit of a paint to remove. So pick wisely before you pull it, and then cross your fingers it passes the bench test for torque, play and lash.
 
Continuing with the thread hi-jack...
More info concerning Durango snow plow vs. non-snow plow...apparently the non-snow plow box has an "83" cast on the housing.

https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/1997-dodge-dakota-durango-non-snow-plow/

If you buy a remanufactured box check the sector shaft for lateral play (not sure how out of the vehicle, maybe mount in a vice and wiggle pitman arm up/down/all around). The reman one I bought a few yrs ago had excessive lateral slop and now I'm looking for another one (after going through the hassle of drilling for hydro assist).



whow, $426 for a rebuilt box with no core. I rolled the dice with one from the wrecker for about $50. I am a cheapo.
 
interesting. Locally the pitman arm isn't even priced as an item for sale. I walked out with the box and the Durango arm for nothing more than the box cost.

I drained all the fluid I could at the yard using vice grips. also helped verify the number of turns to lock. Worked out well, but I don't think I got all of the fluid out. Just enough to not make a mess on the drive home.

I'd plan on the steering being locked. Right after I found mine I walked up to one where the engine had been removed and it would have been MUCH easier to remove than what I had to deal with trying to wrestle it out of the driver side wheel well...with the wheel still on it.
 
Back in 2007 I installed a PSC steering gear box for my '99 XJ with 5.5" lift and 33" tyres. The model I ordered was SG-621M, which was the "variable gear ratio" option rather than the stock ratio option. Last I looked at their website (5 yrs ago?), I didn't see the "variable gear ratio" option any longer. In my opinion, I felt that it turned too easily and added to the Jeep's tendency to wander at higher speeds (30-60 mph). I did notice that at low RPM, the wheel was hard to turn, so in 2007, just after installation, I ordered an AGR high PSI power steering pump. That pump fixed the low RPM issue for the most part. Although I hear AGR is junk these days? What brand are you using instead for high PSI steering pumps on the XJ?

Did I make a mistake in ordering the variable ratio box - should I have ordered the non-variable ratio steering gear box? Anyone have direct experience with the two?

Fast forward to 2017, I hadn't wheeled in almost 10 years. My Jeep was turned into a primary school family wagon. I grew tired of the "too easy and floppy" steering of the PSC. The PSC also started leaking gear oil. I began reading on the forums about the Durango box. There was comments about it not doing stop-to-stop turns, but I'm not sure if it is true. On my Jeep, one direction hits the stop on the knuckle, the other hits the swaybar bracket first. [weld-on JKS sway bar extension brakets in the pipeline]

I live in a town of under 400K people, so I had to do a lot of digging to find a junk yard '98 Durango box. There are a few small yards, nothing big like those junkyard megaplexes in the US. I was able to find just one small junk shop in town and I had to drive an hour to get the Durango box. I installed the Durango box and my first impression was WOW!!! The steering stiffened up and it felt like a new car. However after a few months, it started leaking gear oil. Over the years I've probably put a full bottle and a half of that Lucas Products Stop Leak for Steering, which didn't stop the leak whatsoever and [I think] has made the steering a bit too tight now, but not intolerable. [Or maybe it was the Powertrax no-slip front lunchbox locker which stiffened it up?] I now park the Jeep with mats under the front to catch the oil. It drops one or two drops of gear oil each drive, but so does the engine, lol.

Has anyone found a good source for rebuilt Durango boxes? I could put the PSC back in and rebuild the Durango, but more tools and time required and 3 little screamers adding to the stress.
 
Does anyone know the quality of the BuyAutoParts Durango boxes? They list them on their site for $280 with free shipping for a new, NOT rebuilt box. part #82-00527AN
 
Unless you have upgraded to manual locking hubs, the lunch box will ABSOLUTELY make turning stiffer... in theory it should disengage (when turning) and you may hear a ratcheting. With mine and the hubs locked its a pig to steer! Haven't upgraded the box yet, but with 35s, Im leaning heavily towards hydro assist
 
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The PowerTrax No-Slip will stiffen the steering even when disengaged in 2WD? I figured it was the neary two bottles of that Lucas power steering leak stop stuff. I don't hear any ratcheting with the PowerTrax No-Slip and that is why I bought it. Pay more for less noise probability. I do sometimes hear a soft "thunk" when the locker either engages or disengages on sharp turns in the parking lot or going from reverse to forward.

My steering doesn't sound as bad as you describe, but I'm only on 33's without manually locking hubs. My wife didn't say anything about the steering stiffness after putting the PowerTrax in, and she drives it everyday.
 
The PowerTrax No-Slip will stiffen the steering even when disengaged in 2WD? I figured it was the neary two bottles of that Lucas power steering leak stop stuff. I don't hear any ratcheting with the PowerTrax No-Slip and that is why I bought it. Pay more for less noise probability. I do sometimes hear a soft "thunk" when the locker either engages or disengages on sharp turns in the parking lot or going from reverse to forward.

My steering doesn't sound as bad as you describe, but I'm only on 33's without manually locking hubs. My wife didn't say anything about the steering stiffness after putting the PowerTrax in, and she drives it everyday.

You cannot disengage the no-slip. It’s an automatic locker. This also has nothing to do with a steering gear box. You might be turning lightly a not giving it much gas when turning. You’ll know when it engages while turning.
 
You cannot disengage the no-slip. It’s an automatic locker. This also has nothing to do with a steering gear box. You might be turning lightly a not giving it much gas when turning. You’ll know when it engages while turning.

What lordoeuf said is absolutely correct, it does dis-engage.
 
I think we are all saying the same thing, but to be clear- I disagree that it has “nothing to do with the steering box”

The locker absolutely will make it harder to turn with both sides wanting to rotate at the same speed... yes it does have some disengagement hence “automatic locker” So, in theory it will release when turning and NOT into any throttle. The thing here, not having manual hubs, even in 2 wheel drive, it is always engaging and rotating with the axle shafts.


Now, with locking hubs that isn’t the case. My post about being a bear to turn is of course with hubs locked in 4wheel. And yes the steering gear is impacted, thus the need for a blinged out PSC box and/ or hydraulic assit.

The tightened feeling in his steering, IMO, can certainly be attributed to the front diff engaging both tires now, as opposed to the open differential that he was running before.
 
Nonetheless, it drives pretty good with a '98 Durango steering gear box (no plow). I find the locker to be disengaged while in 2WD. The annoyance is the leak. Rockauto shows these options for a reman:

Lares, $121 CAD after a $87 CAD core return. Does the customer pay return shipping?
BBB, $198 CAD after a $91 CAD core return. Does customer pay return shipping?

BBB also shows new plow and w/out plow units for $511 and $580 CAD.

Are these manufactured units any good?
 
Sorry I'm OCD... the locker is not disengaged, the transfer case is. The locker and non-locking hubs means both axle shafts are turning in the front end even though the tcase is in 2 wheel.

I haven't had or heard of much luck with remans... perhaps others will chime in.

Could you not find a rebuild kit to do your self?
 
I wasn't sure if special tools are required for the rebuild or if it is difficult and time consuming. Perhaps someone here has some experience with this. If I can get a reman for $121 locally and not have to ship a core back, it might be worth it; I don't know.
 
I wasn't sure if special tools are required for the rebuild or if it is difficult and time consuming. Perhaps someone here has some experience with this. If I can get a reman for $121 locally and not have to ship a core back, it might be worth it; I don't know.

I've done 2-4 gear boxes. You do need an Inch-LB torque wrench (meter). Also, snap ring pliers ect. Spanner wrench to tighten the front nut, and then there is the large flange nut. I'd say a used IN-BL will be $75 to $150 at the pawn shops. You need the one with the dial. There are the recirculating balls to keep track of and put into place. I had an MB box unwind when I turned to get something. They went everywhere. That box is still in use though. My first one, I did not get a rebuild kit. The front cover blew out, in the garage. Amsoil PS fluid over the floor. Late 80's and not cheap.
Possibly contact Blue Top for a rebuild. I think $200.
 
I wasn't sure if special tools are required for the rebuild or if it is difficult and time consuming. Perhaps someone here has some experience with this. If I can get a reman for $121 locally and not have to ship a core back, it might be worth it; I don't know.

Depends what you consider special. I didn't own snap ring plies for a while and you'll need those. A spanner wrench might come in handy and I don't own one of those either. I'm not even sure you can rent them anywhere.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/saginaw-box-rebuild-how-to.570869/
 
I should have a lousy set of snap ring plyers. How long does the rebuild take for the average non-professional?


Being someone who has never done it I’d set aside an entire weekend to do it. I’d also tap the box for hydro assist if I was doing it.
 
That's probably too risky for a daily driver. Has anyone had any luck with any of these steering box leak-stop products? I can say that the one from Lucas did not stop the leak.
 
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