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Want a soft riding XJ

khales6

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tucson, AZ
For starters, here’s my current setup:

Front:
SFR four link long arms with Metalcloak duraflex ends
Rubicon Express RE1310 4.5” coils
Bilstien 24-188197 shocks (5100 I’m pretty sure)
Rough Country adjustable track bar
RE sway bar disconnects

Rear:
BDS 4.5” spring pack
Stock shackles (Yeah they will go)
Bilstien 33-066868 shocks
No sway bar

This Jeep is a total mall crawler. It rarely goes off road. It’s a 99 sport. Bought it as a 2WD in 2007 with 135k, now has 250k, a 242 Xfer, hp D30 and 8.25 with stock gears. I’m running TJ canyon wheels and 31x10.50’s. I have an XJ d44 in the garage, and plan on gears and some selectable lockers. I doubt I’ll go any bigger than 33’s. Want to keep the freeway stability and comfort more than anything. We do plan on visiting Moab and the passes in CO, but no serious rock crawling with this one. Not interested in desert go fast ability.

While it all works fine, the ride is not soft enough for my likes. It lacks any compliance over bumps and pavement irregularities. I describe it as to jouncy. I’m not scared to spend on some decent shocks, but to be honest I attribute the current ride to the shocks, so I’m not thrilled with the Bilstiens.

I’m almost ready to buy most of the DPG 4.5” hybrid kit. The OME stuff seems to have a great reputation, and supposedly have a nice ride, but the front springs need a spacer for my 4” or so height. Also intrigued by the Metalcloak dual rate spring. Anyone care to share opinions? My RE springs were reported to be a soft spring rate from what I had read. Maybe they are and the shocks don’t play nicely with them? PAC springs used to be mentioned often, but don’t appear to be available any more? Am I better off working on different shocks with the current springs?

I know the rear shackles need to go, and my shackle angle is bad, but I don’t think that is the only thing off. I don’t want to do a coil swap. Just some good leaves and shocks. I know Deavers are often suggested. They are pricey but I’ve bought enough cheap stuff and had to replace it, that I’m willing to spend more if it’s right.

So... Let me have it! What do you think?
 
I picked up a '00 XJ about 2 months ago that has a RC 4.5" Long Arm kit. It has the RC 2.2 shocks, and at the time of purchased the XJ, it had the RC 4" lift leaf spring pack, but with the bottom and second-to-the-top leaves removed. Also has some ghetto shackles that are 4.5" center-to-center. Rode like a Caddy, almost quite literally, with that setup. It would sag when groceries were added, but it was comfy for easy double-track exploration.

I just installed a new set of the RC 4" lift leaf springs. I tried first with the full pack of all five leaves, and that was a bit firm for my liking. I'm currently running with the middle leaf removed, and its pretty much a perfect ride for my needs. Its plenty smooth on the street, especially with a little weight in the rear, and its also still sufficiently compliant on the trails. Its also fine at freeway speeds as well. When it had the "custom" 3-leaf rear setup, it did 80 mph in a straight line fine on 31" tires. With my 4-leaf configuration, its about as good as I could hope for a lifted vehicle on twisty highway roads. I just got back from a weekend out of town, an the trip back was mostly twisty mountain highway road. The springs are firm enough to keep the lean to a tolerable value in the corners at slightly above the posted corner speed limit.

I know most people think RC sucks, but I'm very pleased with this setup. The RC 2.2 shocks are no longer available, but presumably the N3 shocks will ride similarly. I imagine that many enthusiasts would roll their eyes at the idea of swapping Bilstein 5100s for RC N3, but it may suit your needs just fine. Its only a $200 experiment for the shocks, and if you don't like them, I'm sure you can sell the set of four on eBay, FB market place, or Craig's list for $100. Leaf springs are only $260 with free shipping. Same deal if you don't like them.
 
What tire pressure are you running ? My 31's are at 28 psi.

Why not start with different shocks, all the other stuff is good quality and should not need to be changed. Tires choice is another thing that is overlooked when ride quality is brought up. IMO Bilstein are typically firm to very firm.
 
Get your shackle angle right first off. Then go to parts store and get some cheap monroe shocks or something similar... They will give a soft ride. Most ppl on this forum prefer stiffer shocks for the control on a lifted rig, but on my stock daily I run cheap monroe gas magic shocks and the ride is just fine to me. You can find a vehicle that will have the length you need I'm betting. Possibly a jk would have long enough shocks, but probably not...

My beater has the cloak coils, and they are a great ride. I chose an extremely stiff shock due to springs being soft. I personally like that combo

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The most noticeable ride improvements I have made:

1) MetalCloak dual rate springs. I have been running them now for well over 4 years. A noticeable improvement over the Skyjacker coils I had been running. They are combined with Bilstein 5100's (255/70 valving).

2) Shackle Relocation boxes in the rear with proper shackle angle. Significant improvement in smoothing out the rear. Same Bilstein shocks, but I also ran them through the floor. (Rear Shock Towers)
 
Dropping it 1" would be a notimprovrment in ride because arms will be flatter.

A winch would also help ridecdue to same reasons

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In terms of soft riding, you're better off with choosing a good set of tires for your XJ. Quite frankly, a Nitto Ridge Grappler tire should do the trick. I've been using it for months, and I must say, I've never had a bumpy ride ever since.

I was going to bring up this too. I went from Mastercraft 31's on Canyon rims, to Falken Wildpeaks on WJ rims. I used to get pucker on the Mastercraft and a lot of road noise. The Falkens no pucker, and much smoother ride. I do have Bilstein 5100's.
I think the shocks are part of the problem. Not sure which route on shocks I'd go. Doetch-Tech, Bilstein 4300's, Rancho 7000 or 9000. I did like the silver KYBs I had on the front of a stock A bit firmer than stock, but not much. I had G3s on a Neon. Probably firmer than stock. Handled well.
I'd also wonder about 6-ply vs 10ply. I haven't run 10-ply though. I know it is a heavier tire and some report a MPG loss.
Edit: As for springs: I went with OME for the rear to replace RC. They will be used on another build. I did look at Zone. I did see a set locally. They had anti friction pads and looked good overall. So, I doubt it is your rear springs. Also, RE springs have a good rep. I do have a set of front, but never installed them. I doubt they are your problem.
 
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I've been very impressed with the fox 2.0 ifp
An eye opener for me for sure.

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I was going to bring up this too. I went from Mastercraft 31's on Canyon rims, to Falken Wildpeaks on WJ rims. I used to get pucker on the Mastercraft and a lot of road noise. The Falkens no pucker, and much smoother ride. I do have Bilstein 5100's.
I think the shocks are part of the problem. Not sure which route on shocks I'd go. Doetch-Tech, Bilstein 4300's, Rancho 7000 or 9000. I did like the silver KYBs I had on the front of a stock A bit firmer than stock, but not much. I had G3s on a Neon. Probably firmer than stock. Handled well.
I'd also wonder about 6-ply vs 10ply. I haven't run 10-ply though. I know it is a heavier tire and some report a MPG loss.
Edit: As for springs: I went with OME for the rear to replace RC. They will be used on another build. I did look at Zone. I did see a set locally. They had anti friction pads and looked good overall. So, I doubt it is your rear springs. Also, RE springs have a good rep. I do have a set of front, but never installed them. I doubt they are your problem.
Unless you're hauling a bunch of cargo or a trailer, the 6 plys are perfect. Strong enough sidewall, aired down they ride great and grip really well. One regret I have on 33s, hard to find anything less than 10 ply. Sidewall is too stiff

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Unless you're hauling a bunch of cargo or a trailer, the 6 plys are perfect. Strong enough sidewall, aired down they ride great and grip really well. One regret I have on 33s, hard to find anything less than 10 ply. Sidewall is too stiff

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I don't know what ply the Falkens are. They are metric and about 32.5. Also, R17 on WJ rims.
 
I was going to bring up this too. I went from Mastercraft 31's on Canyon rims, to Falken Wildpeaks on WJ rims. I used to get pucker on the Mastercraft and a lot of road noise. The Falkens no pucker, and much smoother ride. I do have Bilstein 5100's.
I think the shocks are part of the problem. Not sure which route on shocks I'd go. Doetch-Tech, Bilstein 4300's, Rancho 7000 or 9000. I did like the silver KYBs I had on the front of a stock A bit firmer than stock, but not much. I had G3s on a Neon. Probably firmer than stock. Handled well.
I'd also wonder about 6-ply vs 10ply. I haven't run 10-ply though. I know it is a heavier tire and some report a MPG loss.
Edit: As for springs: I went with OME for the rear to replace RC. They will be used on another build. I did look at Zone. I did see a set locally. They had anti friction pads and looked good overall. So, I doubt it is your rear springs. Also, RE springs have a good rep. I do have a set of front, but never installed them. I doubt they are your problem.

Those Falken Wildpeaks are also amazing. I don't know, but something about them makes you feel like a beast when going off road. I might even buy a few for spares.
 
Those Falken Wildpeaks are also amazing. I don't know, but something about them makes you feel like a beast when going off road. I might even buy a few for spares.

I bought mine off of a coworker. They were virtually new. I really hadn't heard about the 3-peak rating. I have not had mine off road, except a gravel or dirt road to the top of my property in WV, or my driveway in WV. So, not much of a test. I did have them twice on patch snow last winter. I felt confident with them.
 
My xj feels good with 20psi.
10 or 6 ply air needs tuned to each rig and tire.

I work and play in the dirt will continue to run 10plys even though 6 seem to work for some.
 
Thanks for the ideas guys. Here’s further fodder to add and clarify.

I’m running Pathfinder ATs from Discount Tire in the 31x10.50x15 size. Since they are not P metrics, they only have 2 sidewall plys. They do ride a bit more firm than the previous BFG AT’s in the same size but not much. I’m running 26 PSI. I really don’t think it’s the tires.

I cannot lower it an inch. The SFR recommendation is minimum 4” lift. I’m at 4.5. No plans for a winch. Still have stock bumpers too, but will eventually change that. Won’t be big and heavy though. Custom valves shocks just might be where I end up, so the Accutune suggestion is valid.

Shackle angle is not going to help the front. I am likely going to add the relocation boxes but not as a first step. I can’t remember the spring rate of the RE1310 spring. There used to be a thread with spring rates. I’ll have to dig that up again. It was supposed to be low from what I remember. I am leaning toward shocks first. I don’t think long enough Monroe’s are even available for my lift height. I would try that as a cheap experiment. Thought of buying the Quadratec hydro set for that same reason. Had them on my yj with OME leaves and it rode decent for a yj. The Fox 2.0’s are on my somewhat short list. I’m not likely to do anything right away. Have to pay for my 242 rebuild first.

Anyone have more ideas I’m open to hearing them!
 
Did you discount trying ut as a 3link. Pull passenger side. If you like it fugure out how to make it permanent.

I run similar geometry to sfr I actually almost bought theyre brackets and spent some time picking they're brain's

One thing I don't like about alot of long arm brackets is they run the frame side links as high as possible sfr even does it what this does steepens arm angle degrades ruse quality it also eats up frame side link seperation.

Depending on how much work you want to do and if your brackets are welded or bolted on.

If bolted id look seriously at lowering the brackets even 1.5" that would improve arm angle alot soften ride.

Im running les than 3" of lift my arms are raised at the axle end and loweres are alittle lower then sfr but my upper is still where sfr has theres. My lower arm is at about 2deg angle. 6deg is what we shoot to stay under.

At 4.5" id guess your arms are pushing 8-10deg id be curious if you have an angle finder . See what your lowers are at.

Mine rides incredibly soft to soft . I am talking to accutune and plan to do some resivor shocks with theyre tunning its a huge plunge should be a night and day game changer.

I do not know what shocks id run. I doubt I ever run normal socks again.

If your arms are angled a fair amount shocks with less compression damping may help because energy is transferring through the arms instead of directly through the shock and coil spring.



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I was originally planning on running it as a 3 link but didn’t want to weld on the passenger upper as they suggested. As a mostly street Jeep I don’t see the need to go 3 link. I know it should flex better, but I doubt it would chage the ride at all. My lowers are right at 8 degrees. I’d go down an inch perhaps and push the SFR recommended minimum a half inch, but again don’t think that will do much.

The question in my mind is do I need different springs and shocks or just shocks. I may end up going the custom valved shock route, but may just try off the shelf shocks first.
 
3 and 4 link provide more travel then we can use.
The driving characteristics change greatly. If you dont want to spend the time to take one link off and drive around the block. Well id say I don't know what to say about that
Its free
 
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