• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Please try this with your XJ and tell me results?

This has become a flamewar of course, but fwiw, some of us want to work hard to maintain XJs at their peak performance. I'm one of them. For 20 years I've put the work in to have a Jeep that works better than "it's supposed to do that, it's a 20 year old Jeep". Seems like the OP is in my ballpark. Now, he may not understand the AW4 as well as the crusty veterans (I am the original owner of my 98 AX15 so I don't know what an AX4 is supposed to do), but instead of expecting him to suck it up and deal with what he knows isn't right for his Jeep, can we stop for a sec and see what he can do to fix this?


He wants to sell it and has had numerous shop visits (Telling him everything is good- only none have popped the diff cover), oh and a new (free?) tranny. He also doesn't want inisght on what it could be or how to fix it. Op refuses to have the diff cover dropped and look into the carrier/ back lash in the rear diff, or spend the 32 bucks for motor mounts- so ya... If he wants to flame those who try to help, suck it up buttercup!

I did the test. Shared results. Shared what could be causing his excessive clunk. We have only seen a video him prying on the u joint, and of 4low shifts and he brushed off all input (possible pinion/carrier play and or back lash migh be off) *although all jeeps lurch into D in 4low.... And hasnt shared it in 2 wheel (where the concern lies). Multiple users have had great inisght on what to look into, OP wants his problem to be a unicorn problem and/or more then the jeep is worth to fix.

Fwiw my clunk into D from N has been cured with new motor mounts. Go figure.
 
Last edited:
He wants to sell it and has had numerous shop visits (Telling him everything is good- only none have popped the diff cover), oh and a new (free?) tranny. He also doesn't want inisght on what it could be or how to fix it. Op refuses to have the diff cover dropped and look into the carrier/ back lash in the rear diff, or spend the 32 bucks for motor mounts- so ya... If he wants to flame those who try to help, suck it up buttercup!

I did the test. Shared results. Shared what could be causing his excessive clunk. We have only seen a video him prying on the u joint, and of 4low shifts and he brushed off all input (possible pinion/carrier play and or back lash migh be off) *although all jeeps lurch into D in 4low.... And hasnt shared it in 2 wheel (where the concern lies). Multiple users have had great inisght on what to look into, OP wants his problem to be a unicorn problem and/or more then the jeep is worth to fix.

Fwiw my clunk into D from N has been cured with new motor mounts. Go figure.

On April 20th, 2019, 08:56, I provided a link to my 2H video (along with 4L). If you didn't watch it, that's not my fault.
Numerous other falsehoods/assumptions in your statement.
Thanks for the new info that new motor mounts solved your problem...that IS helpful to me. However, with labor costs, it's probably more like $232 than $32.
You were the only person who was willing to actually answer my question...thanks again for that.
 
He wants to sell it and has had numerous shop visits (Telling him everything is good- only none have popped the diff cover), oh and a new (free?) tranny. He also doesn't want inisght on what it could be or how to fix it. Op refuses to have the diff cover dropped and look into the carrier/ back lash in the rear diff, or spend the 32 bucks for motor mounts- so ya... If he wants to flame those who try to help, suck it up buttercup!


NM then, I stand corrected.
 
This has become a flamewar of course, but fwiw, some of us want to work hard to maintain XJs at their peak performance. I'm one of them. For 20 years I've put the work in to have a Jeep that works better than "it's supposed to do that, it's a 20 year old Jeep". Seems like the OP is in my ballpark. Now, he may not understand the AW4 as well as the crusty veterans (I am the original owner of my 98 AX15 so I don't know what an AX4 is supposed to do), but instead of expecting him to suck it up and deal with what he knows isn't right for his Jeep, can we stop for a sec and see what he can do to fix this?
People on multiple Jeep forums have been trying to help him and all it turns into is a discussion that goes in circles.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
I am starting to think we are being trolled.
 
Thanks for the new info that new motor mounts solved your problem...that IS helpful to me. However, with labor costs, it's probably more like $232 than $32.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2000,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1363384,engine,motor+mount,5552

Rock auto motor mounts $3.90 plus shipping -- So for $15 and 30 minutes of your time you too can find out if new motor mounts solve your problem

FWIW I did try the test -- Makes no difference how I shift -- It's all the same -- 2000 XJ -- motor and trans mounts have 6000 miles on them -- drivetrain has 231,000 and counting
 
I misspoke... My clunk/ lurch is now normal- as opposed to before motor mounts. Definition of normal being subjective I guess
 
Last edited:
People on multiple Jeep forums have been trying to help him and all it turns into is a discussion that goes in circles.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

To all:

If you don't want to address the question asked in a thread, move on to a thread that interests you. Worst case, this thread might have wasted 10 seconds per response (time to do test)...why is that so horrendous that people feel that they have to warn off fellow members from responding?
Or are you just angry that I didn't follow your advice? Or are you just trolls? I don't get it.
 
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2000,cherokee,4.0l+l6,1363384,engine,motor+mount,5552

Rock auto motor mounts $3.90 plus shipping -- So for $15 and 30 minutes of your time you too can find out if new motor mounts solve your problem

FWIW I did try the test -- Makes no difference how I shift -- It's all the same -- 2000 XJ -- motor and trans mounts have 6000 miles on them -- drivetrain has 231,000 and counting

THANK YOU for doing the test.

As I have already explained to others here, I am not allowed to work on my vehicles where I live, and labor here is ~$95/hour.
 
I did my tests, results;

#1 Re: Jeep with 208k on original trans and original 8.25 rear end that I know has backlash beyond oem service limits;
When shifted from reverse to drive without pausing in neutral = abnormal chunk, as all the backlash in the 2wd drive line is instantly forced to change direction without "unwinding"
This result WAS EXPECTED

When shifted from reverse to drive WITH pausing in neutral = no abnormal chunk, as all the backlash in the 2wd drive line is NOT instantly forced to change direction without "unwinding"
This result too WAS EXPECTED

Test #2 Re: Rope
With my 70lb. Golden retriever attached to one end of a rope via his mouth and myself attached to the other end via my hand I could NOT move him while pushing.
This result was expected.
 
I did my tests, results;

#1 Re: Jeep with 208k on original trans and original 8.25 rear end that I know has backlash beyond oem service limits;
When shifted from reverse to drive without pausing in neutral = abnormal chunk, as all the backlash in the 2wd drive line is instantly forced to change direction without "unwinding"
This result WAS EXPECTED

When shifted from reverse to drive WITH pausing in neutral = no abnormal chunk, as all the backlash in the 2wd drive line is NOT instantly forced to change direction without "unwinding"
This result too WAS EXPECTED

Test #2 Re: Rope
With my 70lb. Golden retriever attached to one end of a rope via his mouth and myself attached to the other end via my hand I could NOT move him while pushing.
This result was expected.

Thank you for doing the test. Yours is the first that behaves the opposite of mine.

That's 1 same, 1 opposite, and 1 no difference, so far.

The fact that yours has a loose differential AND behaves the opposite of mine probably eliminates my differential as a suspect, but I'll see if others' results match yours before making that conclusion.

Test #2: If insulting me is the price for test results, it's worth it...I just want to get my XJ fixed, without going broke doing it.
 
Actually folks, this is getting ridiculous...I don't think that I am going to get any more test results from anyone who has already posted to this thread, so why am I still hanging around here? I asked the moderator if I could block certain members from posting to a thread that I started, but I haven't received a response. I am going to start a new thread asking members to perform the same test, and I assume that I cannot block any of you from posting there, so I guess if you show up over there (to warn other members not to waste their time with me) then I'll just have to keep starting new threads repeatedly until either the moderator sides with me or you regarding my right to ask a "stupid" question and not take veteran members' advice. If I get banned, so be it.
 
Thank you for doing the test. Yours is the first that behaves the opposite of mine.

That's 1 same, 1 opposite, and 1 no difference, so far.

The fact that yours has a loose differential AND behaves the opposite of mine probably eliminates my differential as a suspect, but I'll see if others' results match yours before making that conclusion.

Test #2: If insulting me is the price for test results, it's worth it...I just want to get my XJ fixed, without going broke doing it.

As an FYI

My motor mounts and trans mount are all oem / napa'ish quality, my u-joints are recently replaced and the slip yoke is packed with synthetic EP grease. Also, my transfer case has never been opened.

Re; Test #2, that was to confirm what Tim thought. If I was insulting you it would be more along the lines of......... sell the jeep, buy a prius and get laid (not necessarily in that order)

Good luck with the clunk
 
Lol.. Just dismiss the diff and thats more then likely where the play is coming from??

Are you just wanting the problem to be with the new tranny? Is it pride that has you focused on this as the only possibility?

Block people? Keep starting new threads?

Childish responses like that is why you are getting the backlash- pun intended!

GL with all that nonsense.
 
We just disagree about what a technical forum should be, that's all. In my view, a technical forum should be solely for the purpose of helping others...a question is asked, advice is offered, and then the person starting the thread is free to either take the advice or not, without fear of being chastised, insulted, or ridiculed.

Lol.. Just dismiss the diff and thats more then likely where the play is coming from??

Are you just wanting the problem to be with the new tranny? Is it pride that has you focused on this as the only possibility?

Block people? Keep starting new threads?

Childish responses like that is why you are getting the backlash- pun intended!

GL with all that nonsense.
 
If someone can explain to me how even the worst possible driveline/differential could possibly cause the system to clunk/lurch when shifting from Neutral to Drive, but NOT when shifting from Reverse to Drive (without pausing in Neutral), THEN I will focus primarily on the differential.

It's not pride or stubbornness...I don't even understand what those emotions have to do with any of this...it's about MONEY. I'm not allowed to work on my vehicles where I live, and I don't want to pay to have my differential analyzed when, in my mind, there is no logical reason why a faulty differential would for some reason suddenly become not faulty every time I simply do not pause in Neutral when shifting to Drive.

I received a suggestion to remove the drive shaft, place the transfer case in 4H, and then see if the same thing happens with only the front differential connected, and I AM going to try that, because I can get away with doing that if my landlady doesn't notice, and because I can grease the slip joint at the same time.

Lol.. Just dismiss the diff and thats more then likely where the play is coming from??

Are you just wanting the problem to be with the new tranny? Is it pride that has you focused on this as the only possibility?
 
"When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth."

-Spock....also Sherlock Holmes lol
 
I skimmed this and the other thread again. I don't see where you've popped the cover off the rear differential and looked at it yet. I get some clunk in my 89 MJ with no real difference between pausing in neutral. I have similar backlash turning by hand as you and I've got somewhere around 250k miles and I know I need to redo the motor mounts again. I noticed a lot of movement of the body in your videos under power. If your rear brakes are not working well, when you do that test under power, you could be getting extra movement as it winds up the tires and the rest of the body as it tries to drive forward. You'll also get more movement if the motor/tranny mount are shot. The AW4 doesn't have synchros gears that engage/disengage for shifting. It's all planetaries and clutches, so nothing to go "clunk" in there.
 
Back
Top