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Rear Main seal, 1 piece oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket

KingOfTheHill

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Palmdale, Ca
any tips or tricks i should know? anything i should look out for?

i have checked a few "How to's" but curious if others have gone off those and then realized a better way or something they forgot?

its stock height, 90 4.0... so im hoping i can squeek the oil pan out of there... wish it was lifted already

JOe
 
Try a quick search - I've covered this in pretty decent detail several times, with the last one being as recent as sometime last week. I know it's out there...

(Sorry about the "Search!" comment. I tried to be civil, but I don't normally care to repeat myself, and I know it's been covered in detail.)
 
I just did this to mine and followed some instructions from here, they worked great. Theres only one thing I would have added. I had to use a tie down strap to move my axle forward a bit to clear the pan when I reinstalled it. It actually came down with no issues. Other than that it has been covered here on several posts. Good Luck!

Lil Joe
 
I just replace the RMS and VC gasket on my 01 XJ. Wasn't all too bad but just be prepared to spend a little time on it. I was having trouble getting my oil pan out. I disconnected my shocks and still barely slid it out. I also had to remove the little oil pump that was inside the oil pan before I was able to get the pan out. It is an easy two bolts. I had the whole jeep on jack stands from the frame not the axle. I have a post about it which might help. Just search my posts (ebjones7). Good Luck

Elliott
 
I just did mine as well. A 90 4.0. It was a royal pain. just get the axle as low as possible. I loosened the shocks and also the sway bar end links to get more drop out of it and it still barely made it.

good luck!

sean
 
One tip that I have is to use some small zip ties to hold the gasket in place putting the pan in. I did this and it really helps, just get the pan into position, start a few bolts and the snip the zip ties and pull them out (don't leave them in or you will have a leak)

Here is a pic
p1010316ic5.jpg
 
I'm doing this RIGHT NOW and am having a beer moment while I gather my thoughts on how to get the oil pan dislodged. ALL bolts are out. Tried 8#BFH padded by wood still no go. I'm now going to try razor blade around as much of pan as possible. Screwdriver, I'm afraid of bending the pan too much, I'm tired of leaks.

Searching had no results with oil pan and many variables and wildcards.

Did you all have to remove inspection plate? I haven't. err... couldn't how many bolts hold that damn thing in?
 
No you do not have to remove the inspection plate and the 3 pans that I have pulled on my XJ's have fallen right off!

Do you have a drum brake adjuster tool? Sometimes you can slip the slender flat end in and pop it loose somewhere.
 
Harlee&Tahoe said:
I'm doing this RIGHT NOW and am having a beer moment while I gather my thoughts on how to get the oil pan dislodged. ALL bolts are out. Tried 8#BFH padded by wood still no go. I'm now going to try razor blade around as much of pan as possible. Screwdriver, I'm afraid of bending the pan too much, I'm tired of leaks.

Searching had no results with oil pan and many variables and wildcards.

Did you all have to remove inspection plate? I haven't. err... couldn't how many bolts hold that damn thing in?

I've had luck with a rubber hammer as well (~2#) - those factory seals are tight!

If you do bend the lip, it can be straightened. Use a fairly soft drift (hardwood, Nylon, brass, bronze - something about 1/2"-5/8" diameter,) set the pan upside down on a flat surface (garage floor can work, if it's fairly smooth. I don't recommend a driveway) and tap it flat. I've had good results doing this with a number of pans where I've had to bend the flange to get the damned thing loose...
 
I dont know if this applies to your motor... However, when I did my valve cover gasket the rubber CCV grommets needed replaced. They just cracked and fell apart when I tried to remove them. They are cheap from the dealer so might as well replace them.

Also, I spent some time cleaning the valve cover up really well and thought about painting but ran outa time ha.

It might also be a good time to replace the O-rings on the oil filter housing.
 
I've done mine 3 times now (I can get it done in 2 hours or less now ;)) and it still leaks. The only thing that I can come up with is that A) I'm an idiot or B) My crank is grooved and I just need to buck up for a new block. Which isn't a bad idea, considering the motor has 211K and getting to be a bit loud.

Tips? Let it sit overnight so as much of the oil as possible gathers in the pan. I changed out my BIL's RMS (he dropped it off) and it sucked having oil drip all over you for hours. Oh and his sealed up nicely :(
 
Brett M said:
I've done mine 3 times now (I can get it done in 2 hours or less now ;)) and it still leaks. The only thing that I can come up with is that A) I'm an idiot or B) My crank is grooved and I just need to buck up for a new block. Which isn't a bad idea, considering the motor has 211K and getting to be a bit loud.

Tips? Let it sit overnight so as much of the oil as possible gathers in the pan. I changed out my BIL's RMS (he dropped it off) and it sucked having oil drip all over you for hours. Oh and his sealed up nicely :(

A1) - you've installed the seal backwards. The "open side" of the V should be on the inside - and if you didn't pay attention, you could have gotten it reversed. Twice. (Unlikely? Experience has shown otherwise for me...)

Or it could be a groove in the crank, or a crack in the rear of the engine, or a leak down the back from the valve cover gasket.
 
I now can't remove the OEM upper RMS BIG difference in wire diameter.
New RMS wire 1/2 the size as the OEM.
I tried to loosen the mains to hopefully release some pressure. Still no luck. Can't get good swing, exhaust crossover in the way.
I'm glad I waited a while before I started no "Black Rain" however the oil trapped in the main cap bolts super stinky sulfer oil.
My oil pan was mostly shiny on the inside, looks new compared to pic above.
 
Harlee&Tahoe said:
I now can't remove the OEM upper RMS BIG difference in wire diameter.
New RMS wire 1/2 the size as the OEM.
I tried to loosen the mains to hopefully release some pressure. Still no luck. Can't get good swing, exhaust crossover in the way.
I'm glad I waited a while before I started no "Black Rain" however the oil trapped in the main cap bolts super stinky sulfer oil.
My oil pan was mostly shiny on the inside, looks new compared to pic above.

Use a long peice of 1/4" wooden dowel or pick up some 1/4" brass rod to pound the seal around with. Once it moves a little it will slide right out.

That pan shown above is out of a 96 with 200k on it and the PO ran quaker state, it was nasty before I cleaned it! It runs good now though!
 
My pan was out of an 87' 180k. It looks real purdy now a little simple green and wire brush to remove a few "build up" spots, now looks nearly new
I also started using M1 full syn.

1/4" huh? I like thw wooden dowl idea better than the brass, less likely to scratch and cheaper too. I got it to move like 1/32"-1/64". I'm going to try again tonight when I get home from work.

Yay for pedal power:soapbox:
 
5-90 said:
A1) - you've installed the seal backwards. The "open side" of the V should be on the inside - and if you didn't pay attention, you could have gotten it reversed. Twice. (Unlikely? Experience has shown otherwise for me...)

Or it could be a groove in the crank, or a crack in the rear of the engine, or a leak down the back from the valve cover gasket.

First time it was in wrong. Second and third were right.....I think that it's just screwed up.

Valve cover gasket was replaced 2 years ago...no leaky leaky there. :( Oh well.....stroker?
 
Brett M said:
First time it was in wrong. Second and third were right.....I think that it's just screwed up.

Valve cover gasket was replace 2 years ago...no leaky leaky there. :( Oh well.....stroker?

Stroker!

When I replace a rear main, I tend to run my thumbnail over the crank surface in a few places - if the groove is deep enough to cause a leak, you'll feel it. Your thumbnail, however, won't be able to scuff or scratch the crank, so you're good there.
 
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