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One wheel bounce

techno1154

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
In the islands
Driver side front wheel,...I am out of options.

New Bilstein 5160's
New unit bearings,
New Chevy TRE,
New ball joints,
Check and re-check all fastener torque.
All new tires balanced and re-balanced.

Just that one side have a continuous bouncing when driving on some of these newish concrete road that is not very smooth at high way speed. It does display a mild case of death wobble at times.

For brakes the XJ is fitted with a set of WK (third generation Grand Cherokee 2006 model) rotors and calipers. The calipers are a bit warped. I have a replacement set but need to drill a second set of bolt holes at 4.5 inch instead of the 5 inch spacing.

Funny thing, I could drive up to 80 MPH on otherwise smooth highway with no indications of a shake or wobble. I am out of things to look at except a professional alignment.
 
For a process of elimination you could try swapping the Bilsteins over from left to right and vice-versa.
 
For a process of elimination you could try swapping the Bilsteins over from left to right and vice-versa.

I had the same problem with a different set of shocks. I also swapped the wheels front to back on that side.

The other item of concern is the 2" spacers/adaptors on all four wheels that allow the use of the JK OEM 17" wheels. I should start swapping them around also.
 
What tires? Sometimes they have to be "trued" before you balance them.
 
What tires? Sometimes they have to be "trued" before you balance them.

Something that has been lost over the years, the good tire guys will check for round before they ballance.

Look at your front axle U-Joints, grease or even rust dust around the rubber seal for the bearing caps. Jack the tire/axle up and jam the U-joint yoke with a long ratchet drive extension or something similiar. Look closely with a flashlight where the X goes into the bearing caps.
I had one that showed none of the normal signs of U-joint failure but it would pick up a serious vibration or bouncing sensation at around 50 MPH and then it would disappear or minimize at higher speeds or lower speeds.
 
Thanks all for their reply.

I walked backward in my mind of the things I did recently that would affect drivability. Toe adjustment was the last one a couple of weeks ago. It was toed out and sowed signs of it with tire wear on the inside. When I pulled the toe in a little there was a noticeable improvement in eliminating wandering on slanted roads. Two days I returned the toe to where it was. Now the bouncing seem to be gone and the beginnings of Death Wobble. However, the following the down slope in the road have returned which necessitate a constant but light correction to the left.

It seem I have no choice but to take it to a pro to get it aligned. Enough of that drive way, eyeball, trades man level thing.
 
Are you scribing your tires so you get a good measurement?
 
I tried multiple times to do an alignment with the tape measure, but could never get it dialed in just right.

I then used the string method, but instead of a string I used a construction laser level. It was so easy and the Jeep now tracks perfect.
 
Are you scribing your tires so you get a good measurement?

No, there is no sign of tire scrubbing except that over more than 1000 miles the inside of the tire seem to wear more than the outside. The pull to the right is my biggest concern.
 
I tried multiple times to do an alignment with the tape measure, but could never get it dialed in just right.

I then used the string method, but instead of a string I used a construction laser level. It was so easy and the Jeep now tracks perfect.

How do you do that? What does the light shoot at?
 
No, there is no sign of tire scrubbing except that over more than 1000 miles the inside of the tire seem to wear more than the outside. The pull to the right is my biggest concern.

"Scribing" as in with a sharp scribe!
 
"Scribing" as in with a sharp scribe!

No, I did not.

For some reason, I have a feeling the truss angle may be off. I cannot say why I think so except like I said the XJ need a constant but slight left input on the steering wheel to keep her going straight down the road.
 
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Camber is a whole different conversation?
 
How do you do that? What does the light shoot at?

Set up the laser at the rear of the vehicle at mid tire height, about 12"-18" behind the rear tire.
Ensure the laser is level.
Set the laser so the distance away from the rear tire is the exactly the same when measured at the 9 and 3 O'clock positions. ( I set it at 1" away using a solid steel ruler)
Then starting with the passenger side front tire, measure the laser distance away again at the 9 and 3 O'clock positions. (You should be looking for about 1/16" to 1/8" toe in on the front measurement. Adjust the steering wheel to get the desired measurement)
Then move the laser to the driver side and set up the same way.
Measure the front tire the same as the passenger side. Adjust the tie rod to get the desired measurement.
Once the tie rod is set, then adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel.
Done.
 
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Set up the laser at the rear of the vehicle at mid tire height, about 12"-18" behind the rear tire.
Ensure the laser is level.
Set the laser so the distance away from the rear tire is the exactly the same when measured at the 9 and 3 O'clock positions. ( I set it at 1" away using a solid steel ruler)
Then starting with the passenger side front tire, measure the laser distance away again at the 9 and 3 O'clock positions. (You should be looking for about 1/16" to 1/8" toe in on the front measurement. Adjust the steering wheel to get the desired measurement)
Then move the laser to the driver side and set up the same way.
Measure the front tire the same as the passenger side. Adjust the tie rod to get the desired measurement.
Once the tie rod is set, then adjust the drag link to center the steering wheel.
Done.

Thanks. Good to know. I do not have a laser so I will not be doing it at this time.

What's your caster look like?

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

It is about 5.5*.
 
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