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What's next for a mild trail rig?

Change your crank position sensor and keep the one you have as a spare because you know it works. If the CPS goes out you’re going nowhere until it’s fixed.

Rock sliders, bumper with recovery points in the rear, frame stiffeners, etc.
 
I have a 1999 XJ with 189,000 miles. I replaced the entire exhaust from the header back this year because of a cracked header. I went with Banks Power for everything, except for the catalytic converter, which is a Flowmaster.

You probably won't have the cracked head issue for awhile, but if you do, you'll notice a sluggish vehicle with not much power.

Replacing the exhaust brought the power of the 4.0 back and it sounds like a deep throated bad ass now. Not loud, but just the perfect deep rich tone.

Winch and bumpers for sure if you want to get into anything challenging and worth a risk.
 
There is no such thing as a mild trail rig, only an unfinished one.
 
Mine started out mild, a budget boost, and the factory installed Limited Slip. Modifications were made as necessary to meet my specific needs and the trails I run on. 18 years later and I still have no winch.
 
Change your crank position sensor and keep the one you have as a spare because you know it works. If the CPS goes out you’re going nowhere until it’s fixed.

Will it throw a code when the CPS goes south? Or, what are the symptoms.
Good call, I have one on order. Carry a TPS also but I don't think that will shut you down.
I carry an OPDII reader with diagnostic app also. Just for kicks.
 
Will it throw a code when the CPS goes south? Or, what are the symptoms.
Good call, I have one on order. Carry a TPS also but I don't think that will shut you down.
I carry an OPDII reader with diagnostic app also. Just for kicks.

It stops running. I don't think the ECU puts up a code. If you carry a spare sensor, also make sure you have enough socket extensions to install it. It takes something like 2-3 ft of socket extension. Check out some of the videos on youtube.
 
It stops running. I don't think the ECU puts up a code. If you carry a spare sensor, also make sure you have enough socket extensions to install it. It takes something like 2-3 ft of socket extension. Check out some of the videos on youtube.

Yup, watched YouTube on it.

Good source for genuine Mopar.

www.moparpartsgiant.com

Also ordered a serpentine belt and TPS to carry (don't think the TPS will cause it to not run but I've lost them in the past).
 
Carry a spare CPS and TPS. If you get the TPS really wet, it will fail.
 
Pro tip: before replacing the CPS, try unplugging and replugging it a few times to clean the contacts in the, uh, plug.
 
Thanks guys. That's a lot of things to think about. Upon further inspection, the rear main seal does leak as well as the pan gasket. They're up next. I'm not going all in on everything at once. I would like some added lighting. I'll probably put it right on the stock bumper for now. It appears there are factory cut-outs in the air dam. Anybody ever try mounting lights in those locations?
 
Those cut-outs are only good for fog lights, otherwise just start with good headlights then add any additional lighting you might feel needed.
 
As part of good headlights, put your headlights on relays. That alone will probably make an improvement in your lighting, not to mention improving the reliability of your headlight switch.

As to better headlights themselves, check with Daniel Stern to see what is currently on the market that is honestly good lighting vs just marketing garbage. https://www.danielsternlighting.com
 
As part of good headlights, put your headlights on relays. That alone will probably make an improvement in your lighting, not to mention improving the reliability of your headlight switch.

As to better headlights themselves, check with Daniel Stern to see what is currently on the market that is honestly good lighting vs just marketing garbage. https://www.danielsternlighting.com

I second the daniel stern comment. Step 1 is to upgrade your harness, available through DS.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

I put CIBIE lamps in my '99 but I see they're no longer made. He will dial you up with the good stuff and is a great read nonetheless. Yes, the setup was a huge improvement over stock.
 
Anak is right.
The headlight harness upgrade made my factory lights suck less.
The garbage on the market puts out significantly more light. Only problem is its cheap garbage that puts out tons of stray light that blinds oncoming traffic.

I bought projector led from ebay they put out a ton of light on the trail I can actually see
However I can also see the tops of 40ft tall trees and the jeeps 5ft from the trees.

I hit a tree the other day and broke the plastic light bucket the light survived but now points straight down even with 1 light down i still see way better than factory
 
Will it throw a code when the CPS goes south? Or, what are the symptoms.
Good call, I have one on order. Carry a TPS also but I don't think that will shut you down.
I carry an OPDII reader with diagnostic app also. Just for kicks.


It won’t crank when you turn the key. No crank = no start = sit there until you replace the part or have someone tow you out.
 
Thanks guys. That's a lot of things to think about. Upon further inspection, the rear main seal does leak as well as the pan gasket. They're up next. I'm not going all in on everything at once. I would like some added lighting. I'll probably put it right on the stock bumper for now. It appears there are factory cut-outs in the air dam. Anybody ever try mounting lights in those locations?


Make sure it’s oil leaking. I bought my Jeep and the previous owner said it needed RMS replaced. After cleaning it spotless I find out it leaks antifreeze and the freeze plug at the rear of the engine needed to be replaced. I have a replacement rear main seal and still haven’t installed it.


4ae343632f055e6ef71f53d95f44aa7a.jpg




0144789ad0279b1cf3cd5d13798fa2f5.jpg


Cleaned up you can see the leak.

bd4c4303d7660b354177abec48a2b029.jpg



I new something was up when I got here.

ae5677be1588572b16cfc702ab9b5d1c.jpg


New plug and some permatex sealant.
 
It won’t crank when you turn the key. No crank = no start = sit there until you replace the part or have someone tow you out.

It'll still crank with a bad cps. May or may not throw a code.

Looking at those huge pics is like looking at a cancerous biopsy!
 
It'll still crank with a bad cps. May or may not throw a code.

Looking at those huge pics is like looking at a cancerous biopsy!


Tapatalk VIP has its privileges. Original size doesn’t show up extra large on my phone.
 
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