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Opinions wanted Re: Axles

LJRockstar

NAXJA Forum User
I'm about ready to move in to the next phase of my build, axle beefing.

Currently I'm running D30 front open w/ 3.07's and Cry 8.25 rear open w/3.07's on 31's. I know i need to re-gear. The plan is to step up at least to 33's but more likely 35's. It will be locked front and rear, probably ARB's.

Is it worth putting the time and effort into the stock axles? Or would it be better in the long run to just get some more HD housings and start from scratch? I think the 30 if done right with gears, lockers, RCV shafts and gusseting/bracing would handle most of what I would throw at it. The 8.25 I have less confidence in (I hate C-clips). I'm thinking of either a 9" housing or a D44 for the rear.

The rig is not my daily, but I do plan on driving to the trails AND driving home.

Let me know what you think.
 
A 8.25, with 29-spline axles is stronger than the D30 and C-clips breakage is rare. Add rear disc brakes to prevent a broken C-clip from losing a rear axle.
With a 4.6 stroker, I have run a 8.25 and D30, with 33"s, for years without an issue. Both axles have been upgraded with alloy shafts, 4.56 gears. with Truetrac in the rear and E-locker in the front.
Many are now running 35"s with the same combo but I personally would not be happy without upgrading to stronger axles.
 
got a friend rolling 36" on stock axles. all depends how ya drive it. he works it pretty hard but knows how to drive it with care.

33's have taken me many many places jeeps with bigger tires couldn't go. I'm about ready for tires and I'm looking at 35's, well just because.
 
35's present a whole other set of problems just getting them to fit in the wheelwells. You do need to do the gears first and be thinking of a tire size commitment.
 
I got 33 tires and 4.11 gears. Causes a lot of highway down shifting up hills. Id prefer a 4.56 gear maybe, but on the flats at highway speed, the 4.11 is probably saving me fuel. For low range, I have an Atlas with 4.1, so the 4.11 differentials dont cause any offroad loss of peak torque as it would with a stock gear transfercase.

with a stock transfer case pick 4.56 over 4.11 Id say, if you do a lot of flat highway, the 4.11 is not too bad however with 33, it is just on the low end for sure. I used to drive a VW Bus, so downshifting and the slow lane on highway hills is normal to me. With a lift and big MT tires, I don't care to go so fast on the highway anyway.

for axles, well I have manual hubs and no longer have the split passengerside disconnect axle, it is a one piece. You can buy these in good alloys, nice and strong. they also accept a beefyer larger UJoint than stock. I have serviceable wheel bearings rather than the stock sealed bearing hub unit, nice pair of big tappered roller bearings. Warn manual hubs.
an advantage is stronger axles, and by unlocking the hubs, you reduce rotating mass to save fuel on 2 wd roads, and you can even limp home with a broken axle, broken drive shaft, broken Ujoints, even a dry of oil diff, or one that is stuck in locker mode. the entire front drive system can be disengaged right up to the wheel hubs, that is a nice limp home bonus.

But it cost money. Note the manual hubs may have a different lug pattern, so wheels may need be changed. My lug pattern is a bit wider than stock.

Lot more money than stock, you need to weigh cost verses utility. If you wheel, and break, and need a tow home rather than limp home, depending on things, the price maybe worth it. the stronger axles, UJoints are also less likely to break in the first place.
 
Like black1990jeep, I have 33's and 4.10's. I also have an Atlas for low range, and a 300+ HP stroker for getting up to speed.

4.10's still suck. 4.56 or deeper is the way, there is a regear in my future.

I am seeing 19 mpg on the highway, though.
 
leave the 30 front and run 33's. 4.56's are what I have in my DD and mild wheeler, they work well. I haven't done anything to my D30 other than beef up the controls arms and mounts, and replaced the steering and better trackbar. Rear there are lots of options.

I installed an Isuzu 44 in the rear of mine and stuck a e-locker in it. It was a bit more work than I expected but it's working fine. 32's or the metric size is what I'm running now. Not planning on going bigger.
 
35's present a whole other set of problems just getting them to fit in the wheelwells. You do need to do the gears first and be thinking of a tire size commitment.

I should add I'm working on some 44's right now and will have 6.5" lift when they go in.
 
Running 35s on mine. D30 hp front d35 rear non c clip. I broke 6 stock front shafts before going to rcv. Rear has never broke cause its 30 spline chromoly. (Parts where givin to me but I'm working on a 44) both are trussed and c gussets. Just ran claw hammer with out a problem. E locker front Detroit rear 4.56. Going 36s as soon as my 44 is done
 
I've been running a HP D30 / 29 spline 8.25 with 35's for several years now. 4.56 gears, alloy shafts, e-locker in front and Detroit in the rear. I wheel it fairly hard, but I always keep in mind I'm on "stock" axles with 35's, so I'm light on the skinny pedal. So far, no issues with the D30. The rear, I've broken one alloy shaft and sheared the u-joint bolts off twice. Last time this happened, I replaced the rear yoke with the Iron Rock U-Bolt conversion setup. So far, no more issues. I too would like to upgrade to bigger axles, but $$$ and I really don't want to go tons.
 
Great input guys! Much appreciated.

I think if anything I'll step up from the 8.25. The 30 will probably get the treatment. Gears, locker, RCV's, gussets and trusses. I already have a new set of knuckles that I've reamed for 1 ton UTK steering (Stinky Fab) so that part will be easy haha. For the rear however, I'm a bit torn between a Ford 9" style and a D44. I like the idea of the third member and being able to do gearing and diff work on the bench but the "sheetmetal" housing makes me a little nervous. I had 44's in my LJ years ago and they gave me little trouble over the years I owned it. Blew the factory Rubi diff coming out of white rim canyon in UT and grenaded a Detroit driving on dry pavement in downtown Philadelphia (totally my fault). I was running 4.88's with 35s and sorta wished for something a little deeper but I was concerned about Driveshaft rpms when pulling highway duty.

More likely than not I'll be going with 35's/4.88's again this time because the usage will be similar to what I did with my LJ and the combo worked quite well. The only thing that will be missing on the XJ is the 4:1 low range, but that can be addressed as well.

If anyone has any input on the 9" vs. D44 debate, please throw in your $.02!
 
I know the 9" removable casting gets bashed for issues, but make no doubt about it, a built 9 is one bad mamajama. Imo the strength of the axle housing, ease and options of customizing are highly sought after. Ide much rather build one of these than a 44. Trusses, gears, axles all readily available. The downside on a 9" is you get what you pay for. It's not cheap to build if your going all out. If your gearing, locking, trussing, it'll take almost anything.
Its worthy of your consideration.
 
Bummer I have with 33s and 4.56s is driveline vibes are definitely more noticeable at real freeway speeds (75-ish). Front pinion angle sucks with the lift and enough caster to not wander, so need to look into correcting that...
 
If you are starting from scratch, there is no 9" vs 44 debate. yes a junkyard 3rd is nothing to brag about but a 9" opens the door for huge capacity. You can grow a 9" to be just about all the axle you need without throwing everything out like you have to do with a 44. That and if you have ever worked on either a 9" is a joy to work on compared to anything from Dana.
 
I know the 9" removable casting gets bashed for issues, but make no doubt about it, a built 9 is one bad mamajama. Imo the strength of the axle housing, ease and options of customizing are highly sought after. Ide much rather build one of these than a 44. Trusses, gears, axles all readily available. The downside on a 9" is you get what you pay for. It's not cheap to build if your going all out. If your gearing, locking, trussing, it'll take almost anything.
Its worthy of your consideration.

Meh, you want to spend money on something go with a D60 and your done. 9" are neat but they are spendy to start building.
 
I actually picked up a 8.8 out of a local pick and pull, 4.10 with LSD for $125 and last weekend drove down to Maryland to snag a HP d30 for $100. Currently in the process of cleaning them up. Plan on sticking to 33s. This is my first go around with axles so I'll make sure to keep posted!
 
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