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More lift

Pgw1995

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Arkansas
Hi guys, I currently have a 6.5 inch long arm lift on my 98 XJ. In a hard flex I still get a little rub with the 35’s. I am planning to add 2 more inches of lift. What is the best way to get the extra lift add still have a decent ride? I not only off-road this XJ, I also drive it on road some. Also other than the lifting what am I looking at having to extend or lower to add 2 more inches. I have found 8” springs if I have to go that route but would rather not (expensive). I also have a weak rear driver side leaf spring so why not just go for it know. Already have SYE. Looks like I will have the adjustment in the control arms, may push them to far so may have to extend those but they are not out very far right now. Thanks in advance!!!
 
Out of curiosity, why are you putting on more lift vs just extending your bumpstops so it doesn’t rub? There are a lot of benefits in having a low COG rig. I am on 37’s with around 4.5-5” of lift.
mytruckawesome_zpserqrad7h.jpg
 
Last edited:
No to adding lift, and yes to bumpstops and fender trimming.
 
6.5" is plenty. Bump stops or trim fenders.
Those cool looking fender flared rigs dont clear big tires for shit.
 
My fenders are trimmed. I will try the bump stops, just really like the travel. Thanks guys


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
PGW, It is just my preference to have stability and a lower center of gravity than up travel. If you still want to go the extra lift route, your cheapest bet is probably a coil spacer in the front and a longer shackle in the back. If you are rubbing in the front you can always do what I did, and remove the front of your inner fender, for more clearance and travel.
66041719_348500912477999_7528273652010188800_n_zps3dafuixg.jpg
 
Out of curiosity, why are you putting on more lift vs just extending your bumpstops so it doesn’t rub? There are a lot of benefits in having a low COG rig. I am on 37’s with around 4.5-5” of lift.
mytruckawesome_zpserqrad7h.jpg

HOW are you on 37s with a 5" lift?
Also, how built are your axles? I assume you're not running a dana 30 front with a locker.
 
89Mock - It is easily doable - if you bump stop. I have lots of bump stop, and have done a lot of inner fender trimming for more clearance and up travel . I modded my front inner fenders -as well as did some extra trimming to the inner wheel wells of the rear. It is definitely doable. I am running a D44 front with RCV axles and WJ knuckles, and a Ford 8.8 rear with the Yukon C clip eliminator kit. I did run the 37's for awhile without these mods and it just did some rubbing .



Here is what my front inner fender looks like now.

IMG_0231%201_zpssotzrass.jpg


I also did some more trimming on the lower inner fenders, cutting off lower pieces, moving it back and welding in small patch panels where it was actually open to the inner body.

IMG-0222%201_zpsd9mztyjl.jpg
 
5.5" of lift on 35's here. Only rubs just barely on the inner fender at full bump/full steer. Like has been stated, trim and bump stop. When trimming my fronts I removed a coil spring and used a floor jack to flex the suspension until it contacted something. I then trimmed everything I could until the tire could still spin when on the bump stop. I did this with the steering turned all the way in both directions.

I trimmed a good bit from the outer fenders but I also had to pound the inner fender lip over with a sledge hammer and also massage the inner fenders a bit under the battery/PCM areas. My bump stop recipe is factory bumps with 2 hockey pucks bolted to the coil buckets on the axle.

For the rear I did the typical cut and fold up to the pinch welds without separating my inner and outer fenders. I have the Dirtbound bump stop kit which places the bump stop on the u-bolt plate. I have no bump stop on the unibody rail. Again, it will just barely rub if I'm really gettin it but the bump stop contacts before the tire does. Works well.
 
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