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XJ Dana 44 Ford Explorer Disc Conversion

Yeah, I'm going to try it stock first, the if need be start playing with prop valves.

XCM:

That's basically what I did, we have "Pat's Tools" in El Cajon, $10-$20 for rotary burrs and they last forever. Did 4 backing plates, 2 Durango steering box piston cover stops, and numerous other jobs with it.
 
I've run both stock aluminum 'grizzly' wheels with the crown vic discs and some aluminum ford ranger wheels (which also require having the center grinded out!). I just used a cheap-o black and decker dremel.
 
neither the 5 spokes, nor the 11 spoke alloys from the 1990 era fit on my crown vic setup... just trying to warn of potential issues, my bad if some wheels WILL fit... better safe than sorry
 
I think those are the wheels I've got with 4.5" backspace. I'm going to find out soon. :)
 
They're 15"x8"s with 4"bs, They already stick out like crazy since I've already removed the fender flares, add wheel spacers onto what I already have is gonna be crazy looking.
 
few years ago I ordered an Explorer disk kit from gef racing
It is a little over $300 for all new emerg brake/backing plate/dust shields,calipers, pads, spacers, hardware. ( no brake lines). The install was exactly as you detailed, and it was nice to have all new parts and spacers included
 
That price beats others(tera-flex for one--did yall see how much quadratec was asking in the latest catalog?) by half! That is the no brainer kit for those that don't want to piece it together or/and hit up the JY.
 
anyone having trouble with enlarging holes in backing plates.... visit mcmaster carr's website, and buy a 'rotary burr'.... these are the 'GOOD SHIT', and cut thru steel like butter, HOWEVER, they make shard-shaped burrs.... and these are killer, and will stay in the area of your garage near the drill press for at least a couple months... thats the only downside, but it sure beats a crapload of home depot bits..

three things,
1- aftermarket wheels are a must, at least for crown vic brakes, the stock wheels dont clear the caliper
2- cv's are very, very common in the yards, TONS of wrecked taxis.. explorers are a bit more scarce, allthough hardly rare... WAIT for a 50% off weekend!
3- im on my 2nd d44, and both have had issues with axle seals, both are due to me being inexperienced with axle work, but the lesson is, use rtv on the axle seals when dropping in the axleshafts...


ANYTHING BEATS GREEN AND GOLD! the gear guy was feeling frisky!

after new paint

Nice Truss!! I want!! My D44 looks kinda small with my Q78 (36") tires!

Wait a minute....where are your shocks??
 
markw, did you set yor calipers leading or trailing? as I'm getting ready to bolt everything together, it looks like they fit perfect trailing, but can't remeber for the life of me if they lead or trailed on the exploder I pulled them off of. They'll require a little shaving off of the flange on the axle tube to lead.
 
They trail... I just did this swap yesterday. Everything went together just like this write up said it would. I have yet to get the axle under the jeep yet so I cant comment on the stopping power increase. Looks cool though.
 
Cool thanks, just have to get the calipers and get the rotors machined, and I'll have my brakes done. The axle still needs new axle seals and bearings, a new pinion seal, brake lines(hard and soft), and it will be ready to go in.
 
They trail. I'm going to do mine this weekend. Tom's setup is working fine.

Here's the "after"

DSCN1069_001.JPG


One thing I did was take ultragrey RTV and use a couple of dabs on that to center the preload ring on the axle seal (basically glued it). I let that set up before putting the axles in so I didn't have to putz around making sure that ring wasn't riding on the axle shaft. It's something to watch out for.

Oh, and the drivers side brakeline got moved up about an inch from this picture.
 
Did anyone have any problems using the factory knurled bolts on the housing that hold the bracket/shaft on? Are longer ones needed?

EDIT: Oh and what about wheel studs? Are factory ones long enough?
 
On my 8.8 I reused the stock ebrake cables, cut the spring and used a cable clamp. Didn't mess with a thimble, not enough room to get one in. It's been holding up great for a year or so now.
 
Re: XJ Dana 44 Ford Explorer Disc Conversion Howto

....Give neighbor a beer and have him machine the center of the explorer rotors to fit over D44 axle shafts....

Or use zj rotors which are usually cheaper than explorer rotors and don't need the center hole enlarged.:wave1:

Got that bit from Jsolorza "Jose".

Nice write up Mark.
 
Re: XJ Dana 44 Ford Explorer Disc Conversion Howto

Or use zj rotors which are usually cheaper than explorer rotors and don't need the center hole enlarged.:wave1:

Got that bit from Jsolorza "Jose".

Nice write up Mark.

Yeah, I may be going that way. The ZJ looks like it will sit further inboard, and the rotor is slightly thinner. I've got the outer pad dragging on the Ford rotor. I'll pick up some ZJ parts tomorrow.

Here's the specs from CSK's site with the Raybestos.

Ford Rotor

Rotor Specifications:

* Type: Rotor - w/ Parking Brake Drum in Hat
* Number of Bolts/Holes: 5
* Bolt Circle Dimension: 4.5"
* Discard Thickness: .433"
* New Surface Thickness: .473"
* Outside Diameter: 11.22"
* Overall Height: 2.295"

ZJ
Rotor Specifications:

* Type: Rotor - w/ Parking Brake Drum in Hat
* Number of Bolts/Holes: 5
* Bolt Circle Dimension: 4.5"
* Discard Thickness: .374"
* New Surface Thickness: .43"
* Outside Diameter: 11.22"
* Overall Height: 2.33"
 
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